EBPV stuck?
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Elder User
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From: AZ.
EBPV stuck?
The last time I had my '97 F350 out, I was pulling a 10,000# trailer. It ran like a gutless wonder. The truck has only 53,000 miles on it. I couldn't get over 70 on a level road with the pedal held to the floor. It ran a little hotter than on a previous trip. It's a familiar road and it ran OK at 65-70 before with about 1/2 pedal. I was wondering if it could be the EBPV. Should I be able to move the linkage by hand? I tried it with the key on and off and the engine running. It won't move. Should I tap it with a BFH ? It has a new 15/40 oil change and air filter.The fuel filter had a couple thousand miles on it but I changed it anyway. There were no signs of water or contaniments. I had Diesel Clean in the fuel. The truck is stock and I don't mess with it. If it ain't broke I ain't gonna fix it. ......Thanks for any response...
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From: usa
WOW do you have a Pyrometer????????? If its stuck shut and your hammering it Your Gonna Burn it Up. With that shut and you Flooring it It will Build Unbelievable heat and You will Cook it Fast. I dont Suggest Doing that again untill You make sure thats not the problem. If you live in a warmer climate I would gut it out, But Unhook the Rod from it and make sure it will move free. Dont forget to hook it back up. You can also unplug the Connector to it so it wont electricly Close.
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From: AZ.
So what you guys are saying, that I will not be able to move the valve with the rod connected, whether the motor is cold or hot, stuck or not? My thinking is, if the valve is stuck closed, unplugging the electrical connection won't tell me if that is the problem. I was hoping to be able to check it with the power turned off. Is it selonoid operated by the computer? If so, and it is not energised, I would think I should be able to move it by hand if it is not stuck? The last diesel I owned was a '68 Mack and it didn't have any of these fancy automatic thingys on it so I'm a bit lost here. I'm all for disconnecting it but don't want to get into the pipe to take it completely out. ...Thanks again...
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Originally Posted by Jerrybo66
So what you guys are saying, that I will not be able to move the valve with the rod connected, whether the motor is cold or hot, stuck or not? My thinking is, if the valve is stuck closed, unplugging the electrical connection won't tell me if that is the problem. I was hoping to be able to check it with the power turned off. Is it selonoid operated by the computer? If so, and it is not energised, I would think I should be able to move it by hand if it is not stuck? The last diesel I owned was a '68 Mack and it didn't have any of these fancy automatic thingys on it so I'm a bit lost here. I'm all for disconnecting it but don't want to get into the pipe to take it completely out. ...Thanks again...
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From: AZ.
With a long nosed pliers I was able to reach the rod and move it enough to see that the valve wasn't sticking and with a mirror, that it was seated against the stop. I guess that is the closed position? I pulled the fuel filter again and cleaned the small screen. I got four Q-tips full of black gook out of it. I would guess that would be enough to restrict the fuel and maybe be the cause of the lack of power.. Waddayathink?
I won't be able to test run it for a while because on that last trip the wife was thrown off her Arctic Cat ATV and broke her ankle so camping trips are on hold.
I won't be able to test run it for a while because on that last trip the wife was thrown off her Arctic Cat ATV and broke her ankle so camping trips are on hold.
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Which direction did you move the actuator rod? When the rod is all the way in (towards the turbo housing) the valve is full open, which is where it should be. The rod pushes out to close the valve.
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From: AZ.
Cookie.
OK. good. The engine is cold and the rod is full away from the turbo. There is a slot in the plate that the valve axis is connected to that I can use as a reference and now that I know which way it should move when it is hot and should be open, I'll know if it is working. Thanks a bunch.
If that is working, do do think the amount of gook I cleaned out of the filter screen, 4 Q-tips worth, would be enough to cause trouble. I know it's hard to say without seeing it but what would be your educated guess?
================================================== ===
I just came back in from taking another look at the situation and noticed there's what looks to be a pressure sensor on the housing where the fuel screen is. The wire is red with a white stripe and the **** squirrels bit it off !!!. Do you think that just may be the problem. If so, I'm gonna declare war around here..
OK. good. The engine is cold and the rod is full away from the turbo. There is a slot in the plate that the valve axis is connected to that I can use as a reference and now that I know which way it should move when it is hot and should be open, I'll know if it is working. Thanks a bunch.
If that is working, do do think the amount of gook I cleaned out of the filter screen, 4 Q-tips worth, would be enough to cause trouble. I know it's hard to say without seeing it but what would be your educated guess?
================================================== ===
I just came back in from taking another look at the situation and noticed there's what looks to be a pressure sensor on the housing where the fuel screen is. The wire is red with a white stripe and the **** squirrels bit it off !!!. Do you think that just may be the problem. If so, I'm gonna declare war around here..
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Originally Posted by Jerrybo66
OK. good. The engine is cold and the rod is full away from the turbo.
The only electrical connector that is attached directly to the filter housing is the plug for the fuel heater/water in fuel light. Fuel temperature (probably, not sure) is one of the variables the computer uses to determine the actuation of the EBV, so it probably is related, but if the valve is staying closed after the truck is shut off I believe there is a problem within the EBV actuator assy, or the valve itself is gunked up.
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From: AZ.
OK, It sounds like this isn't a simple fix as hooking up the wire. The actuator seems to be buryed . The end of the rod where it connects to the valve looks to be a snap on like the linkage on a carburator. Maybe I'll just pop that off and forget about the acturator. I guess the exhaust pressure will keep it open without it fluttering. Thanks.
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Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator
The exhaust back pressure is controlled to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 5°C (40°F) and engine oil temperature is between -10°C (15°F) and 83° C (182°F) during low load, low speed operating conditions. At high load, high speed conditions, the back pressure system is disabled,
based on feedback from the EBP sensor at the front of the engine.
The exhaust back pressure regulator solenoid and exhaust back pressure piston are contained in the turbocharger mounting pedestal. Turbocharger pressurized lube oil is routed to the exhaust back pressure solenoid. Oil regulated by the exhaust back pressure solenoid actuates the piston which operates the back pressure valve in the exhaust housing.
Just to get it straight.
The exhaust back pressure is controlled to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 5°C (40°F) and engine oil temperature is between -10°C (15°F) and 83° C (182°F) during low load, low speed operating conditions. At high load, high speed conditions, the back pressure system is disabled,
based on feedback from the EBP sensor at the front of the engine.
The exhaust back pressure regulator solenoid and exhaust back pressure piston are contained in the turbocharger mounting pedestal. Turbocharger pressurized lube oil is routed to the exhaust back pressure solenoid. Oil regulated by the exhaust back pressure solenoid actuates the piston which operates the back pressure valve in the exhaust housing.
Just to get it straight.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Originally Posted by Fordtech1
Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator
The exhaust back pressure is controlled to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 5°C (40°F) and engine oil temperature is between -10°C (15°F) and 83° C (182°F) during low load, low speed operating conditions. At high load, high speed conditions, the back pressure system is disabled,
based on feedback from the EBP sensor at the front of the engine.
The exhaust back pressure regulator solenoid and exhaust back pressure piston are contained in the turbocharger mounting pedestal. Turbocharger pressurized lube oil is routed to the exhaust back pressure solenoid. Oil regulated by the exhaust back pressure solenoid actuates the piston which operates the back pressure valve in the exhaust housing.
Just to get it straight.
The exhaust back pressure is controlled to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 5°C (40°F) and engine oil temperature is between -10°C (15°F) and 83° C (182°F) during low load, low speed operating conditions. At high load, high speed conditions, the back pressure system is disabled,
based on feedback from the EBP sensor at the front of the engine.
The exhaust back pressure regulator solenoid and exhaust back pressure piston are contained in the turbocharger mounting pedestal. Turbocharger pressurized lube oil is routed to the exhaust back pressure solenoid. Oil regulated by the exhaust back pressure solenoid actuates the piston which operates the back pressure valve in the exhaust housing.
Just to get it straight.
Just so we can get it straight.
