rear differential leaking....
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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From: Longview, WA
rear differential leaking....
ok, well its been leaking for a while now, upon closer inspection i have discovered it is leaking out of the front (side facing engine....duh.. 
) anyways, it is leaking from the o ring, where the driveline enters the axle. my question is: is this an expensive fix, is it possible to do myself....i have basic knowledge of how to work on cars, (i took auto shop in H.S. but that was 4 years ago, and my dad is an ex mechanic of 14 plus years, so i have a LOT of tools.) i realize a car lift would make it all easier, but a standard jack should work huh? anyways, what all do i need to do, and how much do you think it will end up costing. if its not too much id like to just take it to a shop and let them do it (im kinda lazy....) but im always skeptical of shops from watching realTV and some mechanics lie and stuff. i know my bronco isnt in top form, but she drives, and i just want to get stuff fixed right now thats necessary, not "recommended" if you know what i mean.
thanks.
) anyways, it is leaking from the o ring, where the driveline enters the axle. my question is: is this an expensive fix, is it possible to do myself....i have basic knowledge of how to work on cars, (i took auto shop in H.S. but that was 4 years ago, and my dad is an ex mechanic of 14 plus years, so i have a LOT of tools.) i realize a car lift would make it all easier, but a standard jack should work huh? anyways, what all do i need to do, and how much do you think it will end up costing. if its not too much id like to just take it to a shop and let them do it (im kinda lazy....) but im always skeptical of shops from watching realTV and some mechanics lie and stuff. i know my bronco isnt in top form, but she drives, and i just want to get stuff fixed right now thats necessary, not "recommended" if you know what i mean.thanks.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 132
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From: Temecula, CA
Ya know...that crap they show on TV is for dramatic effect. Most shops are reputable, and will work hard to get and keep your business. It's like off-roaders...it only takes a couple of idiots to make everyone look bad. From watching TV, you'd think there were no honest people left in the world. Sheese....sorry. I own a shop, and I have to deal with that issue all the time. Drives me nuts...
It should not be that expensive of a fix. You'll need to have the pinion seal replaced. Any driveline shop should be able to do it for you in an hour or 2.
It should not be that expensive of a fix. You'll need to have the pinion seal replaced. Any driveline shop should be able to do it for you in an hour or 2.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 473
Likes: 1
From: Richmond, CA
hey muxpux
At least you where honest about being lazy. Me too, But I'm also very cheap and don't like lining their pockets with my hard earned $$$$$.
That seal is fairly simple. You Don't even have to lift your rig off the ground. It will help torgueing down the pinion nut when the tires are on the ground. Take off drive shaft from the yoke. Then take the nut off that holds the yoke and slide it off. A screw driver and/or pliers will help pull the seal out then Install new seal and the rest of the parts you took off in reverse order. About an hours work, maybe 3 or 4 if your just taking your time.
BTW almost forgot torque down the pinion nut to around 140 ft pounds.
Hope this helps
At least you where honest about being lazy. Me too, But I'm also very cheap and don't like lining their pockets with my hard earned $$$$$.
That seal is fairly simple. You Don't even have to lift your rig off the ground. It will help torgueing down the pinion nut when the tires are on the ground. Take off drive shaft from the yoke. Then take the nut off that holds the yoke and slide it off. A screw driver and/or pliers will help pull the seal out then Install new seal and the rest of the parts you took off in reverse order. About an hours work, maybe 3 or 4 if your just taking your time.
BTW almost forgot torque down the pinion nut to around 140 ft pounds.
Hope this helps
Last edited by tite4x4; Apr 28, 2004 at 08:44 PM. Reason: adding another comment
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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From: Longview, WA
Originally Posted by Tidybowlman0
Leave the sarcasem for your T.V. shows. It's not needed here if you want help. This is a place to get answers to your questions. Behave and treate people like you would like to be treated.
i know a lot of shops price different, but a good example is when i was looking for an alternator for my 90 geo metro and one shop quoted me 150, and another one quoted me 70. im sure there was a reason, but a price discrepency that large usually raises eyebrows.
anyways, thanks guys for the advice, im really at a crossroads right now. i (think) need to fix that leak, its upsetting the nieghbors, all those black spots from leaking oil.... but i also need to have my valve guides fixed, at least that was the diagnosis suggested from a couple people on here...its shooting blue smoke for a few seconds when i start it up...i just dont know which fix is more important, and secondly, which one i can afford right now. with gas being about 2.00 a gallon...and we all know the mileage expected from these old trucks....money is getting tight.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,483
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From: Northern California
I have to agree with muxpux, I dont know why your offended at that Tidybowlman, go take a big flush and start over.
There are alot of good shop out there, but there are some shisters and unfortuanatly theyre the ones that make good TV. Ask some people you know for reccomendations on good shops, thats your best bet to keep from going to one of the rip-off artists.
There are alot of good shop out there, but there are some shisters and unfortuanatly theyre the ones that make good TV. Ask some people you know for reccomendations on good shops, thats your best bet to keep from going to one of the rip-off artists.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 109
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From: Southern California
I was looking in the Haynes manual because my 86 rear pinion seal leaks a drop here and there. Haynes says it can be done at home but for mine it says to pull the axles out, measure the torque needed at the pinion nut to roll the diff gears, and when re-assembling you need to match that torque.
