pyrometer HELP
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 390
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From: northern Maine
pyrometer HELP
I think my pyrometer went bad??? when idling in yard for 20 minites it reads 90 degrees. when driving down road tach at 19 hundred level road pulling nothing with BD chip on stock setting even for 10 miles, it says 150 degrees, it used to be higher, what are you guys getting for readings temp running stock chip setting?
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
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My readings on my 2002 PSD (manifold pyro) are at idle, appox 1 minute after starting are between 225-275, I have no major mods. Local driving averages between 400-600. Highway averages about 700-750. Where was your pyro connected to? manifold or pre-up pipe?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 467
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From: On the farm near Loveland
Originally Posted by Daisy096
Exhaust Manifold much better, more meat to tap
Drill and tap about 1" from the exhaust manifold flange (towards the engine).
Right next to the oil filter. Easy to get at and drill the exhaust manifold going straight up. Use a NPT tap in a set of Vice-Grips to turn it. Work it back and forth carefully. Keep the tap well-greased as cast iron is hard and the grease will pick up the metal chips.
If you ever remove the pyro, all you have to do is screw a pipe plug into the hoile.
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
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Originally Posted by Paarrothead
Yup.
Drill and tap about 1" from the exhaust manifold flange (towards the engine).
Right next to the oil filter. Easy to get at and drill the exhaust manifold going straight up. Use a NPT tap in a set of Vice-Grips to turn it. Work it back and forth carefully. Keep the tap well-greased as cast iron is hard and the grease will pick up the metal chips.
If you ever remove the pyro, all you have to do is screw a pipe plug into the hoile.
Drill and tap about 1" from the exhaust manifold flange (towards the engine).
Right next to the oil filter. Easy to get at and drill the exhaust manifold going straight up. Use a NPT tap in a set of Vice-Grips to turn it. Work it back and forth carefully. Keep the tap well-greased as cast iron is hard and the grease will pick up the metal chips.
If you ever remove the pyro, all you have to do is screw a pipe plug into the hoile.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
shendoa. It will be a whole lot easier to leave your thermocouple in the up pipe than it wil be to drill and tap the manifold and replace the drivers side up pipe. You're only talking about moving it what, 3" upstream anyways, not going to be a noticable difference.
Also, you would be drilling a hole in a cast iron manifold. Eventually the manifold will crack at the drill point, there is no way around it. A crack in the stainless steel up pipe is far less likely.
Also, you would be drilling a hole in a cast iron manifold. Eventually the manifold will crack at the drill point, there is no way around it. A crack in the stainless steel up pipe is far less likely.
