Electrical problem/Battery
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New User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Calif
Need a wiring diagram for my 1974 F-250 4 x 4
I am having problems with my 390's electrical system, ok laugh if you must, but my battery is dead constantly. Yes I did buy a top-of-the-line new battery, but still I have a dead short somewhere or perhaps some wire isn't hooked up correctly ... I am hoping that I can find a schematic to compare my wiring set-up against... Any ideas??? Thanks for any help...
Stallyngrl
<!Boy do I like Fords.... 2- F-250 3/4 ton 1966's, 1- F-250 1974 4 x 4, 1- F-100>
<!1964 flatbed 4 x 4 ( for sale ) 1- 1986 Bronco II 4 x 4>
<! and a 1989 Crown Vic in a pear tree...>
Stallyngrl
<!Boy do I like Fords.... 2- F-250 3/4 ton 1966's, 1- F-250 1974 4 x 4, 1- F-100>
<!1964 flatbed 4 x 4 ( for sale ) 1- 1986 Bronco II 4 x 4>
<! and a 1989 Crown Vic in a pear tree...>
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Addison,Texas
The cheapest and quickest was is to get a haynes. The 74 diagrams are in the back.
To find the short, hook a test light up between the positive battery post and the positive battery cable. That light should be on when the key is out. If so, start pulling fuses until you find the leeching circuit. If not, replace the voltage regulator.
ash
['And then measure the voltage on the battery when it's running. Should be 13+.']
To find the short, hook a test light up between the positive battery post and the positive battery cable. That light should be on when the key is out. If so, start pulling fuses until you find the leeching circuit. If not, replace the voltage regulator.
ash
['And then measure the voltage on the battery when it's running. Should be 13+.']
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Calif
Originally Posted by ashvalentine
The cheapest and quickest was is to get a haynes. The 74 diagrams are in the back.
To find the short, hook a test light up between the positive battery post and the positive battery cable. That light should be on when the key is out. If so, start pulling fuses until you find the leeching circuit. If not, replace the voltage regulator.
ash
['And then measure the voltage on the battery when it's running. Should be 13+.']
To find the short, hook a test light up between the positive battery post and the positive battery cable. That light should be on when the key is out. If so, start pulling fuses until you find the leeching circuit. If not, replace the voltage regulator.
ash
['And then measure the voltage on the battery when it's running. Should be 13+.']
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 22,436
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From: Louisville,Ky.
I bad voltage regulator can charge fine, but stick closed internally and cause the battery to run down when it is not running.
Chris UK, To wire your electric choke properly, all you need to do is splice into the Stator wire coming off of the rear of the alternator. It only sends voltage to the choke when the engine is running. This is how the factory wired them.
Then you can adjust the choke properly and it should open up slowly after the truck is started.
Chris UK, To wire your electric choke properly, all you need to do is splice into the Stator wire coming off of the rear of the alternator. It only sends voltage to the choke when the engine is running. This is how the factory wired them.
Then you can adjust the choke properly and it should open up slowly after the truck is started.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
<!Sorry to deter from the topic, but..>
<!Stallyngrl- noticed in your sig you have a 64 F-100 flatbed for sale? I was>
<!wondering if you still have it... it seems i cannot email you because i dont have 15>
<!posts yet. >
and for the battery going dead, how long after you driven the truck does the battery go dead? in other words, how long does it sit between use?
<!Stallyngrl- noticed in your sig you have a 64 F-100 flatbed for sale? I was>
<!wondering if you still have it... it seems i cannot email you because i dont have 15>
<!posts yet. >
and for the battery going dead, how long after you driven the truck does the battery go dead? in other words, how long does it sit between use?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,613
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From: Gainesville, FL
Chris,
Did you ever get the choke to work? I'm assuming that's all you needed to do to get it to start cold.
Your sending unit for water temp is in the intake manifold fairly close to the thermostat.
The oil sending unit is in the back of the motor, behind the carb on the driver side.
Ground the gage wire, and it should slowly peg your gage. Once you've determined which wire is for which gage, terminate it respectively. If the gage acts crazy or doesn't work, change the sending units to gage or idiot lights, which ever you have.
Secondly, there is about a 90% chance a draining battery is a bad voltage regulator. This is located on the pasenger's inner wheel well and about the size of a coffee cup. Replace it. The other 10% chance is some modification from factory intent.
Good Luck,
KingFisher
Did you ever get the choke to work? I'm assuming that's all you needed to do to get it to start cold.
Your sending unit for water temp is in the intake manifold fairly close to the thermostat.
The oil sending unit is in the back of the motor, behind the carb on the driver side.
Ground the gage wire, and it should slowly peg your gage. Once you've determined which wire is for which gage, terminate it respectively. If the gage acts crazy or doesn't work, change the sending units to gage or idiot lights, which ever you have.
Secondly, there is about a 90% chance a draining battery is a bad voltage regulator. This is located on the pasenger's inner wheel well and about the size of a coffee cup. Replace it. The other 10% chance is some modification from factory intent.
Good Luck,
KingFisher
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