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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 02:39 AM
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81f2504x4's Avatar
81f2504x4
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Cam timing info

I wish to know what will happen if i degree a cam i will be using differently. If some one would run this on their desk dyno i would greatly appreciate it.

460 .030 over making 466
speed pro pistons with 12 cc dish 9.5:1 comp. ratio
D0ve heads stock valves and no porting
adjustable valve train with roller rockers
Isky 264 mega cam 108 degree lobe sep 214* at .050, .525lift
Intake opens @ 24* btdc closes 60* abdc
Exhaust opens @ 24* bbdc closes 60* atdc

I will be using headman headers with 1 3/4" primaries 3 inch collecters to 2.5" dual exhaust and a cross over pipe.

Msd 6a ignition and coil duraspark dist.

Timing set at 36* total 12* initial all in by 2500 rpm

750 edel carb

I would like to see the numbers (theorectically) with the cam run straight up and 2,4,6,and 8 degrees advanced.

Thanks
 

Last edited by 81f2504x4; Apr 26, 2004 at 02:41 AM.
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 10:06 AM
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fordtrkpuller
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What intake valve you using? Most hav ethe 2.25" CJ valve istalled for more flow.
Is that valve timing really the same for intake and EX at 24 and 60. I assume it is as DD2K plots that seat-toseat at 264 duration.
Any reason your not thinking a bit more cam? This is a tad bit on the small side.

Run it at 0 and you get HP peak of 305@5000, and a TQ peak of 417@2500
Run it at 4 advanced and get 311HP@5000 and 428TQ@2500.
Run it at 8 advanced and get 313HP@4500 to 5000 and 439TQ@2500.

I did not go and manually enter the flow numbers for a stock DOVE head for sake of time, I used the default stock/wedge profile. The actual HP/TQ may be off a bit but the trend in valve timing holds true.

This points out to me that that cam is gaining both in HP and TQ as you alter valve timing from the cam's intended grind. Sounds like your buying too small a cam and then trying to tweak it up to the performance level of a slightly larger grind.

Maybe consider moving to a Scott J cam from Reincarnation? He can help put you into a great grind that will make you the most happy.

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/
 
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 11:33 AM
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81f2504x4's Avatar
81f2504x4
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wrong cam numbers

I looked at the cam specks again and i posted them wrong. they are as follows

Intake opens at 24* btdc closes at 60* abdc
exhaust opens at 60* bbdc closes at 24* atdc

these events are at .020 open

at .050 open the events are as follows

Intake open at -1* btdc closes at 35* abdc
exhaust open at 35* bbdc closes at -1* atdc

i hope this helps some on the calculations. I am trying to keep up the port velocity and am planning on using stock valves.

I plan on using this engine in my truck for towing and i am trying to make over 500 ftlbs in the lower rpms would like this to happen before 3000rpm. something else to consider is i am using a performer intake but will be switching to an rpm and fuel injection via mega squirt later.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 02:30 PM
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fordtrkpuller
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
OK, same as before but with the corrected cam timing events.

Set cam 0 advanced and get 357 HP @ 4500, and 495 TQ @ 2000.
Set cam 4 advanced and get 353 HP @ 4000, and 502 TQ @ 2000.
Set cam 8 advanced and get 346 HP @ 4000, and 506 TQ @ 2500.

Next question.....why are you not going to at least do some port work in your garage? I can understand the financial burden of having a $600 port job done, but any work you apply to the upper half of the exhaust port will be returned to you many times over in POWER. If you can, have a local head shop do some blending and smoothing in the upper part of the port, ask them to leave the exhaust port's floor alone, unless they want to smooth out and radius the sharp turn of the "short turn radius" just after the valve as the air turns its damn near 90 degree corner into the port. You can buy yourself 40+ HP/TQ (and more like 60-100) by working the port. This will make your engine do the job you want soooooo much better....if you can afford the time to have the heads off, and if you have the time/cash to do it yourself or pay a local shop.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 03:10 PM
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engine not built yet

I have not built the engine yet and am looking at having atleast a little port work done. I am just trying to see what the cam would do without introducing any other variables. I have seen some of Scott J.'s work on another forum and will probably try to use him as a reference on porting. in the very least i will get rid of the thermactor boss on the exhaust side. Also as i look at this cam on isky's site and the springs they recommend they seem a little stiff. These springs are the same ones they use on all of the other cams because they are the only springs that they carry. can i use a different set of springs. the set that are on the heads i in herited will handle the lift easily they just aren't near as stiff.

Isky recommends their springs with 135 closed pressure and 395 opened it is a dual spring with a damper.

I have a set of crane springs already on the heads they are 90 lbs closed and 280 lbs open this is a single spring with a damper.

this is not a racing engine it will just be a pulling beast,(i don't want to slow down going uphill) and i doubt it will ever see 5500 unless i get into some really soupy mud or something.
 
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