Transfer Case Low Range
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Transfer Case Low Range
The technical forum was very helpful in getting the 4X4 working again on my 87 B2. As suggested I ran the shift motor in both directions till I had the right pins in continuity.
I put the motor in and the truck now shifts in and out of 4 wheel just like it is supposed to.
Problem is that it will not go into low range. When the low range button is pushed all the light does is blink. When I listen to the shift motor from under the vehicle I hear no movement at all toward the low range.
There are two thinga I have not yet tried, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and tryng again nor have I checked the diagnostic light on the control module. I will do this this afternoon if I have time, and will post the results.
I have also heard from a F-150 owner that the lubricant Ford used in the transfer cases was to thick and hindered shifting. In addition this Bronco sat for over a year before my son and I rescued it.
What sugestions do you have for lubricant what do you sugest I do for getting this thing into granny gear?
I put the motor in and the truck now shifts in and out of 4 wheel just like it is supposed to.
Problem is that it will not go into low range. When the low range button is pushed all the light does is blink. When I listen to the shift motor from under the vehicle I hear no movement at all toward the low range.
There are two thinga I have not yet tried, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and tryng again nor have I checked the diagnostic light on the control module. I will do this this afternoon if I have time, and will post the results.
I have also heard from a F-150 owner that the lubricant Ford used in the transfer cases was to thick and hindered shifting. In addition this Bronco sat for over a year before my son and I rescued it.
What sugestions do you have for lubricant what do you sugest I do for getting this thing into granny gear?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,742
Likes: 2
From: UT
Going to start with insulting, but still frequently missed details of shifting into 4L with the electonic shift. You must be stopped, with foot on the brake, and transmission in neutral.
Beyond that, if the shift motor is clean, then check the transfer case shift computer module and the 4L switch.
Beyond that, if the shift motor is clean, then check the transfer case shift computer module and the 4L switch.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Yep tried all that and I did try disconnecting the battery Yesterday. I will check out the module tonight. I do here the relays at the switch when I hit 4L but the motor doesn't even try to operate. I get the same condition whether I go fron 2H TO 4L or from 4H to 4L. All the light does is flash. One more thing when I was under the vehicle having someone else push the switch I hear a relay of something break after a certain amount of time. I did not try to manually rotate the Transfer case to 4L because I di dnot want to mar the shaft.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Well I looked for the module in the LR area of the truck but the only panel I saw that came off only revealed a small recessed area behind the spare tire. Can anyone lead me to where the 4X4 controller is located?
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
On the 89s it is located inside the left rear passenger's footwell/kick panel, There is an access panel that pull out. It may be under the dash on earlier BIIs, but I have never had to find one other than on my 89. Becuase Explores are often similar to Bronco IIs check out this web link. http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Thanks for the reference for the electronic shift. I still havn't found the location of the shift module, but I have done the following.
I again removed the shift motor and checked it all out. Made sure the continuity was correct at both the 2H and 4L positions. They were.
I manually turned the trans case to 4L and rotated the shift motor to the same position and installed it. I had a correct indication in the overhead shift lights. When I tried to shift out of 4L the light started blinking again and the motor did not move.
The problem is only with the 4L position. I have no problems with 2H to 4H and back.
I seriously doubt that the ECM is faulty but I would check it if I could find it.
Another thought; I know you need a neutral indication to allow shifting into our out of 4L. This is the only common denominator to the problem I can find. Thsi is my sons B2 so I had him check to see if it would start anywhere but P or N and found that it will also start in the OD and 3 position. Could the neutral switch be the culprit? How can I check this.
I again removed the shift motor and checked it all out. Made sure the continuity was correct at both the 2H and 4L positions. They were.
I manually turned the trans case to 4L and rotated the shift motor to the same position and installed it. I had a correct indication in the overhead shift lights. When I tried to shift out of 4L the light started blinking again and the motor did not move.
The problem is only with the 4L position. I have no problems with 2H to 4H and back.
I seriously doubt that the ECM is faulty but I would check it if I could find it.
Another thought; I know you need a neutral indication to allow shifting into our out of 4L. This is the only common denominator to the problem I can find. Thsi is my sons B2 so I had him check to see if it would start anywhere but P or N and found that it will also start in the OD and 3 position. Could the neutral switch be the culprit? How can I check this.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 482
Likes: 1
From: Connecticut
There is a speed sensor in the t-case that may be your problem. I had the same problem, lights flash when low range is selected. I "ohmed" the sensor, it was open. Changed it and low range now functions. This sensor is used by the shift logic controller. It determines if the vehicle is stopped or moving at some very low speed before it allows a shift into low range.
Mark
Mark
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 482
Likes: 1
From: Connecticut
Unfortunately I don't have my service manual any more so I cannot tell you the exact resistance. I lent it out and the dope lost it. If you can get your hands on a Ford shop manual the spec is in there. Anyway it is a magnetic coil so I would have to guess a few hundred ohms. Mine was measuring open.
This sensor is on the rear of the t-case underneath a bracket. Mine has one blue and one green wire and connects to the main harness connector on the t-case. It was expensive, about $70-80 can't remember exactly but worth it to get low range back.
Mark
This sensor is on the rear of the t-case underneath a bracket. Mine has one blue and one green wire and connects to the main harness connector on the t-case. It was expensive, about $70-80 can't remember exactly but worth it to get low range back.
Mark
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Thanks, I will check it out, and if anyone reading this post has one of these little devils let me know. My recolection of magnetic sensors is that they sence a small pulse as a mass of metal passes thru the magnetic field, this pulse is then amplified thru electronics and turned into either a sine wave or a sawtooth wave. Would sure be great to know what to send to the controller to make it think the sensor was working to check this out before buying it.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,516
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
It's plugged into the control module which is located in the right top center of the instrument panel. See if your Haynes tells you how to get to it. Theres an 8 pin & 5 pin connector plugged into it.
BTW there is a control module self test. Disconnect the the 5 & 8 pin connectors & activate the self test switch (I presume the switch is on the module) A flashing indicator lamp indicates control module is good. A steady indicator light indicates it's shot & needs to be replaced.
BTW there is a control module self test. Disconnect the the 5 & 8 pin connectors & activate the self test switch (I presume the switch is on the module) A flashing indicator lamp indicates control module is good. A steady indicator light indicates it's shot & needs to be replaced.
Last edited by 87 XLT; May 9, 2004 at 10:49 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Ok here we go with the continuing saga.
Unpluggd the 5 and 8 pin connectors. Light flasshed a few times and then went off so I assume the module is ok.
I couldn't tell which pin was 1. It wasn't marked so I checked in both directions.
Neutral switch: No matter what I did or where the shifter was positioned I had no continuity on either of the posibilities for pin 1.
Speed Sensor; Again checking the two possibilities for pins 2 and 3. one side yeilded an open and the other a short. I crawled under the vehicle and checked directly at the 10 pin connector on the t-case and I got a short. No resistance at all.
As for the neutral switch we just had the tranny overhauled so it is possible that I could get the tranny guy to fix this under waranty, or is it easy to reach. (I havn't see the switch).
Is a dead short bad for the speed sensor, I would think so.
Advice please.
Unpluggd the 5 and 8 pin connectors. Light flasshed a few times and then went off so I assume the module is ok.
I couldn't tell which pin was 1. It wasn't marked so I checked in both directions.
Neutral switch: No matter what I did or where the shifter was positioned I had no continuity on either of the posibilities for pin 1.
Speed Sensor; Again checking the two possibilities for pins 2 and 3. one side yeilded an open and the other a short. I crawled under the vehicle and checked directly at the 10 pin connector on the t-case and I got a short. No resistance at all.
As for the neutral switch we just had the tranny overhauled so it is possible that I could get the tranny guy to fix this under waranty, or is it easy to reach. (I havn't see the switch).
Is a dead short bad for the speed sensor, I would think so.
Advice please.