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ok im new to all of this audio system stuff - i have 98 ford Explorer Sport with stock radio/cd and speakers it really suck- i want to get more bass - something like box or soemthing -- but i dont know what to get or what will work together - can someone tell me what i need to get and how much will all this be?
Well there are a variety of options which each cost a little more money.
adding subs gets the most change, a properly matched system should run about $500. It is possible to do it for less but be ready to spend that ammount on a decent single sub setup.
You'll also need an amp, the 500 should cover that too.
You can go the proper route of replacing your factory speakers and head unit as well. I would suggest the head unit first. A proper one with the ability to tune the high pass filter and bass level as well as control the output level for the sub would be a very nice one for you to have. This makes a lot of change. Lastly do the replacement component speakers, and boom a mere 1k for a very very nice single or dual sub setup.
Since it's a suv, you have plaenty of room to work with.
what do ya think about bazooka tube?? it has its own amp inside - how do i install it ??
Bazooka tubs are nice for a little added bass but if you want to let people know you are coming you need to go with box sub. As i had to tubes and one point and was dissatisfied with them and replaced them with one 12 and man one 12 sounds 100 fold better than the two tubes did. They are easy to hook up and come with instructions.... Main additional things you will need to install any system is a fused power cable straight from the battery. The size of cable will depend on how power hungry of an amp you want to use I ran 1/0 (one ought) welders cable two my two amps this was probably over kill but my amps don't go hungry . you will need to run and alternate power source wire that will get power when you turn the key this can be a smaller wire #10 or #12 will work as only low amperage will flow from it. then you will need to run your wires from head unit to your amp. #10-#14 wire will work for that. You can just do an inline splice without much degredation from your exisiting speakers... and run a ground to the chasis (shorter the better but keep it under a foot for sure) Run a larger wire for the ground #10 as smallest. Hope this helps.
It has been a great deal of help in keeping my daughters Exploder running. It has a great audio forum that was helpful in choosing a headunit amp and speakers.
I am running a 10" passive bazooka tube with 300 watts rms going to it. Its plenty. Doesn't take up much space, and can give me a headache in 30 seconds. Is it the most accurate sub, heck no, but its the most efficient you can get. Doesn't take much to make a lot of noise. Got my tube for $130 shipped.
My advice for the budgeter is "Bandpass" These boxes require very little power to get a decent bass drop! I had a bandpass box with 2 - 10" subs only being pushed by a 100 watt amp, no one could tell it . I just installed my subs in my Expy and I still have the Bandpass w/tens, a crossover , amp & 2 tweeters ,only now I have a 1000w amp pushing them. I kept those crappy 6X8's , mounted the tweeters and adjusted my crossover and it sounds crystal clear. Let me know how it turns out! There's nothing like good bass !!!!!
I ran my tweeters up the seatbelt side panels and have them peaked out the top facing foward and did the same for my pair of rear tweeters.
Many people like running them and mounting then on top winshield panels.
I did mine the way i did as i needed to drill no holes or puchase and panel mod
I have the tweeters attached by super gluing a piece of velcro to the tweeter casing and basically stick it to the headerline, it works great... I have had them for over a year i have yet for a tweeter to droop down or come un velcro'd...