daystar kit
Thanks
Actually our site now lists 2.0", 2.5" and now even a 3.0" which uses a small top of factory mount spacer as well as a sandwiched spacer. The 3" set up is my favorite since the ride is awesome, has the best level look, and a gain of about 1" more droop with no ill effects. The top spacer also eliminates the "top-out" feel experienced when going over a speed bump or hard wheeling. The 2.5" kit has it but very minor. I am looking to redesign the 2.5" kit to have a small top spacer as well. Then all three will be equal in ride quality. They all provide great ride quality, are a perfect machined fit, bulletproof design and materials as well as looking way cool since they are black anodized CNC milled. If you turn the laser engraved logo toward the back you can't see it and since it is dark black they blend in with the frame spring and spring seat so you can't really tell you have a lift. "Stealth" is cool!!! LOL
Take Care,
Brian at www.ProtechEZLift.com
PS I will be adding more photos of the new lifts to our web site...soon. When I have time I will add some to my gallery as well.
What size tires does your 3" kit accommodate? Daystar claims it can take the 35" (It is tight), but really recommends the 33". What about yours? Any difference?
Also, looking on your web site, I did not see the 3" lift kit. I only saw a 3" front leveling kit. I was interested in front and rear 3" lift. Do you have this and what is your price?
Thanks so much!
have to disagree on that spring length with a spacer Dgdee, if you have a two inch spacer in the springpack, the spring will only be 12' with the weight of the truck on it versus 14" without the the spacer, so the spring has two inches more preload on it making it a little stiffer. Brian and David would know, they've been doing this for many many years on the Toyota's. I've seen the Toyotas with the 3" spacers crammed into the springpack and it's obvious they are compressed way more and under a tremendous amount of preload, with the weight of the truck on them, the spring is alot shorter with the spacer.
Brian, I'll get back with you on ordering some ProTechs when I return these Autosprings.
Very cool just let me know about your order via contact number on our site. Please do not let them know that I voiced my opinion about their product (actually just commented about what our findings were when designing our lift)...I am simply trying to help you make an informed decision and you are doing what you should do...research and weigh the pro's and con's of each design before rushing into a decision that you may again regret as you already do with your initial purchase. Bottom line...choices are good!...and now you have a few. LOL!
Take Care,
Brian at www.ProtechEZLift.com
PS Did some more testing on our Ford Fri. and Sat. My findings are pretty much as expected and experienced during original R&D...
1) Trail/street tested our 2" all preload style kit lifts exactly 2" with full OEM travel and excellent ride quality. Pounded it offroad and loved it. Sits within 1-1.5" of being level with stock rear suspension. Allows for 33X11.5" tires without much if any rubbing when wheeling.
2) Trail/street tested our current 2.5" all preload style kit has stiffer but still very good ride quality and only minor shock "top out" feeling when wheeling hard. It lifts a full 2.5" and retains OEM travel. Within 1-1.5" of being level with stock rear suspension. Allows for 33+ X11.5+" tires without any rubbing when wheeling. I used 315/70R17's (34.8" tall X 12+" wide) and had no rubbing except very minor tire/frame contact and only full steering lock while hitting big dips. NOTE: Poor design steering stops is the cause. I am looking into a fix.
3) Trail/street tested our 2.0" all preload kit but also added a .250" top (non-preload) spacer. Has VERY good ride quality and minimal if any shock "top out" feeling when wheeling hard. It lifts a full 2.5" and gains .50"+ travel. Within 1" of being level with stock rear suspension. Allows for 33X11.5" tires without rubbing. I used 315/70R17's (34.8" tall X 12+" wide) and had no rubbing except very minor tire/frame contact and only full steering lock while hitting big dips. NOTE: Poor design steering stops is the cause. I am looking into a fix.
4) Trail/street tested our 2.0" all preload kit but also added a .500" top (non-preload) spacer. Has VERY good ride quality and minimal if any shock "top out" feeling when wheeling hard. It lifts a full 2.75" and gains .75"+ travel. Within .75" of being level with stock rear suspension. Allows for 33+ X11.5+" tires without rubbing. I used 315/70R17's (34.8" tall X 12+" wide) and had no rubbing except very minor tire/frame contact and only full steering lock while hitting big dips. NOTE: Poor design steering stops is the cause. I am looking into a fix.
5) Trail/street tested our 2.5" all preload kit but also added a .250" top (non-preload) spacer. Has very good ride quality and minimal if any shock "top out" feeling when wheeling hard. It lifts a full 3.0+" and gains 1.0"+ travel. Within .50" of being level with stock rear suspension. I used 315/70R17's (34.8" tall X 12+" wide) and had no rubbing except very minor tire/frame contact and only full steering lock while hitting big dips. NOTE: Poor design steering stops is the cause. I am looking into a fix.
Sorry about any typos etc...I was dosing off while writing this... LOL!
Last edited by protech03; Apr 25, 2004 at 03:51 AM.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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We have been sending our lifted Fords and Toyotas to Les Swab down the street from our shop. They have never had a problem getting within factory specs. I would assume they are the same or very close to the 03-04 Expedition since they share the same suspension design. The 04 Ford F150 does require a special tool that moves and holds the lower control arm while making adjustments but I am sure a pry bar and a little coordination works almost well. I have heard of other shops having a problem aligning but it has always comes down to...they did not know what they were doing or just plain did not want to do the alignment at all. On that same note I have heard customers tell me that their mechanic (I use this term loosely) would not install are products as well as others for that matter. It comes down to people whom would rather dog a product because they know NOTHING about it and are basically too lazy to research it, install it then make an educated opinion about it. Funny how...customers with (you would like to think) less skills than supposedly professional mechanics seem to have no problems installing our products. I just tell them "DON'T BE SKEERED...JUST INSTALL IT YOURSELF!"
If they need assistance I am usually available to walk them through it on the phone. Another benefit is...there is no better feeling than when you do it yourself...even if it takes all day...when it is done and you stand back and look at the results and know that it was do to your effort and not just money. I get that feeling every time I modify a vehicle whether it's mine, a friend’s, or customers. The money (if there is any) is secondary.Take Care,
Brian at www.ProtechEZLift.com
Last edited by protech03; Apr 25, 2004 at 12:28 PM.
Last edited by 04abqscrew; Apr 25, 2004 at 12:44 PM.
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Well said! I did not even catch his post that you responded so eloquently to. Opps...sorry, LOL!!!<o:p></o:p>
The words you speak are true!<o:p></o:p>
Stock coil/shock assembly = stock travel, installed coil length, stock overall assembly length.<o:p></o:p>
Stock coil/shock assembly + "preload" spacer = stock travel, installed coil length reduced by spacer thickness (not overall thickness but actual preload portion of design thickness), spring stiffness increased somewhat due to preload increase, stock overall assembly length, percentage of travel from "at rest" goes toward the full extension end by the preload thickness amount or more.
Stock coil/shock assembly + "top" spacer = stock installed coil length, longer overall assembly length by thickness of top spacer, increased wheel travel do to more droop allowed by assembly length increase.<o:p></o:p>
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BEST overall lift design = a combination of both designs listed above. This is due to the fact that both designs have limitations to how much usable lift can be achieved without negative impacts on component life (tie rods, CV, ball joints etc), ride quality, interference problems (knuckle to spring etc) On this note I would not go over .500" top spacer or over 1.500" preload spacer. Combine these two for over 3.0" total lift. This is the max you should even attempt unless you are going with diff drop, control arm and steering drop brackets, or total redesign long travel set up such as Total Chaos or Danohoe Racing's designs. Bottom line...you can "safely" lift your 04 F150 up to 3" for under $300 and fit 35X12.5 with minimal or no rubbing on stock offset or just a little more backspacing. If you want to go bigger without a body lift (I would never do over a 1" body on anything JMHO) you are going to have to spend ALOT! more money to get another 1-3" of lift and not have any more lowest point ground clearance except what you gain from going a little bigger on tire size. IMHO it seems nuts to spend $1500 more to go from 35" to 36" tires...but that's just me...being very practical and getting the most bang for the buck! ...Just my $.02 LOL!
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I drive my trucks hard and always want the best ground clearance and durability possible while using a tire that fits and works in all adverse conditions as well as daily driving...and not just what looks cool posing. LOL!!!<o:p></o:p>
Back to work…catch you guys later!!!
Take Care,<o:p></o:p>
Brian at www.ProtechEZLift.com<o:p></o:p>
Your 2nd sentence: I wonder what degree they have?
Your 3rd sentence: When the assembly is out of the truck with the spacer installed, it will be the same length as w/o the spacer installed. Thats because the shock is topped out(fully extended). When you install it back on the truck, the assembly will be longer than a stock assembly installed, thats your lift.
Your 4th sentence: The topping out(extended) part of your shock is what you have to worry about. The neutral spot on your shock piston is extended upward by the amount of the spacer.
Go measure the coil spring length of a stock truck on your dealers lot. Now install a 2" preload spacer and measure the coil spring length. Same length means same stiffness, shorter length means stiffer spring, pretty simple.


