how hard is it.....and whats the steps to take, also wandering if theres an easier way of adjusting my column shift tranny linkage??? Its a 74 F-100 if you need to know...any help would be appericiated.

 

It's been a long time but I used to do this procedure frequently. Support the truck by the axles with stands, not too close to the wheels. Remove wheels, brakes, rotors (or drums and backing plates). Remove caps at top and bottom of kingpins (spindle bolts), they usually have grease fittings in them. Disconnect tie rod ends at spindle. Remove nut from steel securing pin that runs horizontal through each kingpin in the center. Tap securing pin out with punch. Now the fun part. All you need do is tap kingpins down and out with a punch and big hammer....easy..OR IF THEY ARE RUSTED....oh boy the fun really begins. Get out your oxy/acet torch and heat the axle (NOT the spindle) on both front and back sides, til it's almost cherry. Then try tapping the kingpins down and out again. If you have an air chiesel with a punch on the end that works best. Be careful with the ends of the spindles, you don't want to ruin the threads that hold the grease caps. When the kingpins come out they will be VERY HOT so be careful. And the spindles will drop, be careful. When spindles cool enough to work with remove old bushings carefully with punch, insert new bushings. When the axle has cooled to the point you can touch it you can insert the new kingpin while holding spindle in position. Then install securing pin, this will only go in when kingpin is aligned properly, watch for the notch so that it is in the right location when installing, then install lockwasher and nut. Install grease caps and lube. Install tie rod, brakes, wheels, raise truck, remove stands, lower truck. and you're good to go.

 

Be careful hammering on those kingpins. they have a way of expanding and getting tighter every time you hit them. Just do it lightly.

 

Many times it is easier to R&R the axles and take them to a shop that has a press. The new metal bushings must be reamed to size for the kingpins. There are some plastic bushings that don't require reaming but from what I have heard they don't last as long. Heating your front end parts can be a problem if you remove the heat treatment from the parts.

 

I dont know about the light duty, but in heavy trucks, all manufacturers are supposidly using the nylon bushings. I talked to a few mechanics before i bought my set and they are tougher and easier to install. I bought mine but havent installed them yet.

 

As long as the bolt holding the inner part of the axle to the frame is not rusted fast.


"Thenew metal bushings must be reamed to size for the kingpins"

He's right. I forgot the metal bushings need to have the spindle honed before the bushings are installed.


"Heatingyour front end parts can be a problem if you remove the heat treatment from the parts"


As to heating the axles....if that is necessary, you should use a large 50 or even 100 tip, the faster the axle is heated the better, because there is less time for the heat to transfer to the pins, you don't what them expanding with the axle..... and ....the axles are not high strength steel....not a problem heating....except if you melt them!


Mark

 

The old bushing is punched out. The spindle is cleaned up and the new metal bushing is inserted; then the internal surface of the bushing is honed to produce a snug fit to the kingpin. This is what I had to do for a 1948 front end and spindles on a 1931 Ford Coupe, a hotrod.

 

When I had mine done at a shop they used the brass bushing but they did not do it right and one side only lasted a year.So I put the nylon in that side and its been 3 years now and seemed to be still holding up.