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Truck slants

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Old Apr 17, 2004 | 07:43 PM
  #16  
Ken00's Avatar
Ken00
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Nothing listed on thaose but I bet the Ranger issue is common for many years.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 11:13 PM
  #17  
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98xlt4x4
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I noticed about three weeks ago that my 98 ranger slants quite a bit to the driver's side. Kind of interesting.... More annoying than anything.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 11:30 PM
  #18  
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bigrigfixer
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Originally Posted by Diabolic
Bigrigfixer: What if the truck is a stick? Not apply?
It may, and it may not. It just depends. I've had it happen both ways, with a standard and an auto trans. In my cases, it didn't happen all the time, so I know for myself that it's probably normal.

I know we're talking about swapping springs, but since my truck for the most part will sit level, I don't worry about it. The first time it happened, I don't even think I freaked out. I just got back in and moved the truck a couple feet. Now, I don't even bother. It sits level in my parking spot in front of my house, so that's all that matters.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2004 | 09:40 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by AG4.0
How much did the used springs run you.
I paid $65 bucks a piece for um. I suppose I could have just got one but I opted for the pair. I live in Colorado Springs so if anyone would like my two extra ones let me know. I would try switching the springs first and maybe a spacer which you could probably get at a junk yard for cheaper.

The difference in my ride height now is 1/2". I'm going to put the original RR on the LR. This should fix it completely. This spring seemed to be the problem.

Question: For those of you w/ unequal ride height, do you have bad tire ware? Do you think your truck vibrates on the freeway more than it should? I'm wondering if there is a correlation. Also, I'm wondering if peoples ball joints are going out prematurely because of this ride height issue. My ***** joints seem okay at 40K so far. Didn't I read somewhere on this site that it is always the LF ball joint that goes out? This would correlate because the RR spring would put extra pressure on the LF tire.

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 19, 2004 | 11:06 AM
  #20  
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How hard is it to switch the springs ? Can you do it your self ? Do you need to lift the truck ?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 09:47 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by zoti
How hard is it to switch the springs ? Can you do it your self ? Do you need to lift the truck ?

- find a level service
- secure the front tires from rolling AT ALL (you will not have an emergency brake after jacking up the rear.
- jack the rear of the truck enough to put it on jack stands SECURELY; use the frame rails as a support point for the jack stands (enough to take off the rear tires on BOTH sides)
- have two jacks two hold up/adjust the rear end on both sides near the shackles
- let the rear end virtually hang
- ONLY remove one spring at a time (one side holds the rear in place while you remove/replace the other side)
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 09:59 AM
  #22  
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zoti
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Originally Posted by cary200
- ONLY remove one spring at a time (one side holds the rear in place while you remove/replace the other side)
How do you remove them one at a time if you want to switch RR with LR ?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 03:55 PM
  #23  
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Not sure. I had two extra springs so ... Make sure you have a jack on both ends of the rear end. If you let the rear end slip back to much the yoke will pull out of the transmission and oil will leak out of your transmission. If you take off both leaf springs at the same time leave the shocks connected to the transmission.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 07:08 PM
  #24  
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I have noticed the same type of thing happening on both my 00 4x2 XLT Reg Cab, and my 93 4x2 XLT Reg Cab with one slight difference...My trucks seem to lean towards the driver side front on both. The RR leaf being off on both could be a possibility but I tend to doubt it on my 00 since I have never hauled anything to put extra tension on the RR spring and I am the first owner. On my 93' that I got recently I just went around and replaced the LF Ball joint, new rotors, new front/rear brakes and new shocks all around. Anything else that anyone can think of would be greatly appreciated. Tks
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 08:26 PM
  #25  
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mine does it too, but its 4x4. I guess its the same procedure. But it really isnt that big of a deal to me, just annoying.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 09:45 PM
  #26  
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Have you considered either your rear spring hangers not being on the vehicle properly or your rear spring(s) in need of re-bending?

My car has a transverse leaf spring in the rear, and I know it can be re-bent back to original specs to put the car bak to its original ride height. I don't see why your rear springs couldn't be re-bent if this is the cause of the problem.

You might also wish to measure the distance to the ground from each frame rail at all 4 corners to see if the frame is level from right to left (not necessarily front to back). If the frame is sitting level but the distance from fender to ground is not level, then body mounts could well be the culprit. Being a 2000 model, I doubt seriously it is body mounts, but stranger things have happened.

What are the chances or a previous owner having a bad wreck with the pickup? Something may be torqued badly enough to where that the frame needs to be straightened. I bet this is worse case, but may not be out of the mix.

My '92 ranger was "not wrecked" in 1995, but about 3 weeks after I purchased it the front bumper dang near fell off and the piece of trim between the grille and bumper revealed several places where body work had been done.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 09:17 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CMazz
I have noticed the same type of thing happening on both my 00 4x2 XLT Reg Cab, and my 93 4x2 XLT Reg Cab with one slight difference...My trucks seem to lean towards the driver side front on both.

Same problem I had. Originally my RR was an 1" higher than the LR which caused the truck to dive towards the LF. The LF front was lower than the RF also.

After doing the musical spring thing in the rear I have only 1/8" - 1/4" difference in the rear maybe now (no spring spacers). My LF and RF are only different by maybe a 1/8" - 1/4" now also. I well now see how my front tires are after a few thousand miles. I may need to adjust the caster camber now, don't know.

My .02 cents,

I think these trucks are doing this because FORD adjusted them for MAX suspension travel and as a result the springs to not settle in correctly.... Maybe because the driver and the gas tank are both on the left side of the truck, I don't know.... but I appear to be more level now.

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 09:35 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Stoge
Have you considered either your rear spring hangers not being on the vehicle properly or your rear spring(s) in need of re-bending?


You might also wish to measure the distance to the ground from each frame rail at all 4 corners to see if the frame is level from right to left (not necessarily front to back). If the frame is sitting level but the distance from fender to ground is not level, then body mounts could well be the culprit. Being a 2000 model, I doubt seriously it is body mounts, but stranger things have happened.

What are the chances or a previous owner having a bad wreck with the pickup?
No rebending required, I'm into the quick fix, Thank You.

I'm a pretty good judge, I feel, as to wheather a vehicle has been in a wreck, mine hasn't. I am also very observant of other like trucks doing the same thing, LEANING to the left.... maybe because I've been an engineer for so long ... I don't know. At any rate, read the TSB in this thread, it is how you measure suspension and so forth as I have done.

Tip #1 when buying a used vehicle: Never buy a used vehicle w/ new tires.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 03:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Ken00
There's a TSB on this problem, drop me an email if you want a copy.
My `98 B3000 does the same thing-about 3/4". I read the TSB you posted, Ken, and was wondering if I could just install the leaf spring shim instead of doing the swap? I called my local dealer and he said he could probably pick one up from another dealer for me to look at. Would that be acceptable and would I just have to take off the U-bolts and jack the spring up enough to get the shim in place? I assume the shim has a pin and hole to keep the spring positioned correctly on the axle!! Any thoughts??
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #30  
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I don't see any reason you couldn't do that.
 
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