Do I need a new starter?
Thanks.
Frank.
You might want to check that the ground strap between the engine and the frame is in good condition and is doing it's job.
Lou Braun
1) i have a cable from the battery to the engine.
2) the other battery cable is connected to the relay/solenoid mounted on the fender.
3) the relay has a heavy wire down to the starter. i assumed the starter was grounded by mounting it onto the engine, with the first wire from engine2battery, completing the circuit. i'm missing something
btw i think 232CAN$ is pretty steep for a new starter. is that what the dealer charges? mine was around 100$ with trade in at an auto parts store. the relay switch was another 10$. i don't trust dealer prices since the goodwrench gang tried to sell me 2000$ exhaust line
As for your starter you can go get a good aftermarket starter fro around $130-190 CANADIAN. Trust me I know after having changed a few starters on similar trucks last year. It is fairl easy to do. Get a good quality starter. I put a few $69 starters on and they didn't last more than a few months. Good luck!
-Matt
Ryan
Thanks again, everyone, and I am still open to other suggestions/advice.
Frank.
-Matt
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my car was doing that too. the starter would spin around without turning the engine. all my haynes manuals of all the cars i've ever owned will say to remove the starter and inspect the pinion for damage. but i've never actually seen that happen to someone. i imagine the electrical business usually craps out before the mechanical bits get all worn out. in my case i didn't do anything and a week later i couldn't get the starter to turn at all. trust your instincts and replace the starter
if you get a new starter and play with it you'll see the pinion extending out of the housing as it turns. then as you release it it pops back in. my guess is your starter isn't doing this or else it would be turning over the engine and not turning freely.
still 232$ is pretty steep for just the starter. but i'm guessing that's ford's price for a ford part. worth it considering you're already paying 80$/hr for the guy to put it on. you'll have a guarantee so you don't have to pay anyone to do it again
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Thanks.Thanks, everyone, for your help. The dealer gave me a better price on the starter, but unfortunately, also told me my differential needed to be rebuilt. He showed me how the rear wheels are not turning properly. They have been a good dealer with me in the past, so I think I have to trust his diagnosis.
Frank.
my car was doing that too. the starter would spin around without turning the engine. all my haynes manuals of all the cars i've ever owned will say to remove the starter and inspect the pinion for damage. but i've never actually seen that happen to someone. i imagine the electrical business usually craps out before the mechanical bits get all worn out. in my case i didn't do anything and a week later i couldn't get the starter to turn at all. trust your instincts and replace the starter
if you get a new starter and play with it you'll see the pinion extending out of the housing as it turns. then as you release it it pops back in. my guess is your starter isn't doing this or else it would be turning over the engine and not turning freely.
still 232$ is pretty steep for just the starter. but i'm guessing that's ford's price for a ford part. worth it considering you're already paying 80$/hr for the guy to put it on. you'll have a guarantee so you don't have to pay anyone to do it again
As for "can fix a starter" it can be done. All it is is an electric motor with a magnetic shifter for the bendix drive.
Most times when you get the dreaded "SPINS" The bendix drive is NOT shifting back enough. Pull the starter, unbolt the back housing and lubricate the pinion shaft (less than an inch long), and the motor shaft so the gear can slide easily. While you have it out go ahead and replace the bendix drive.
OLD STYLE STARTER Also remove the top cover and clean the magnet plate of any iron filings (the magnet plate gets pulled down onto the stator windings when energized) .
NEW STYLE STARTER The magnet disk slides in the solenoid housing disassemble and clean. Also the contacts can be cleaned with medium grade sandpaper or a fine file.
R&R plus clean and lube you should be able to do in about 2 hours. It really isn't hard.
Took a starter of my boat 2 years ago which had gotten flooded due to the bilge drain freezing and rain filling up the boat. Pulled it apart, put the rotor, the solenoid, and the case in the oven overnight at 175deg. Meanwhile cleaned and lubed everything else. Next morning I pulled the parts out of the oven let them cool and checked them on a megger (milli-ohms and current leakage). Everything fine. put it all back together and hit the starter button. Fired up and haven't had any problems since.
Never had a car where I couldn't rebuild the starter myself. $20 for a solenoid and $30 for a bendix drive is one heck of a lot cheaper than $232 for a starter and $80 for some parts changer.
Larry
Frank.
take the bottom cover off for the flexplate/flywheel. PHYSICALLY look at all the teeth. They all should have a slight bevel on one side more so than the other. Physically rotate the flexplate/flywheel by hand and inspect each tooth. If you have any broken teeth make sure they are not more than 2 in a row. I suspect you're starter is hanging in the flywheel when you let the key go back to run and causing this "scream". It could be broken teeth on the flexplate/flywheel, although a mis aligned starter will do the same thing. You can shim the starter OUT/DOWN to alleviate the noise. Also look at the gears on the bendix drive on the starter.
the flywheel doesn't do the engaging it is engaged. The starter moves in and out internally to engage the flywheel. The flywheel is static other than rotation.
It's a sometimes messy job, but you have to do it to learn, and save $$$$$!!!




