Going over the rough sanded areas with fine paper will help with the gouges a little, but you may need to prime and sand them a time or two with the rattle can primer. If you don't put it on too heavy, you should be able to sand the rattle can primer in about 30 minutes. (check the label directions to be sure)

You may be in trouble trying to recoat what you've already sprayed, if it doesn't have a catalyst additive. Respraying it now will almost for sure cause it to lift (burn) Test a small area, and give it several minutes to see if it starts lifting. If it does, you'll have to wait a week or more, or sand it completely off.

 

Well, I finished everything last night. Borrowed a DA sander from my neighbor and dang near burned up my air compressor. Picked up a package of 80 grit and 220 grit from the paint store. I sanded down most of the really rough places with the 80 grit until I could no longer feel the gouges. Talk about life lessons learned... Turned a 4 hour job into a 30 hour one; 90% of it spent on a door and a fender! I'm gonna risk the burning and repaint the sanded areas t'night and we'll see how it turns out tomorrow. After looking over the roof, hood, and other door and fender, except for the runs and the gouges left from sanding off the pin stripes with the 40 grit, it doesn't look half bad for a backyard spray from a first timer, if I may say so. The good thing about it is the paint is cheap and the sanding costs nothing but time, so I can perfect my painting skillz over time. There was some residual dust on the fenders, I think, because I can see little bumps in the paint. I figure next time, I can just sand that down with the 300 grit and sand down the deep gouges and apply another coat. Overall, I'm really glad I took this challenge on, and actually look forward to becoming a half decent backyard painter. After all, it IS only gonna see mud...I'll make sure to mask off the already decently painted areas to keep from burning it.

 

Stop. What part of using a degreaser did you not hear. Man after you sand, use a primer then resand to at least a 300 grit. Then degrease again and use a tack cloth AND paint in a dust free atmosphere by putting a fan facing out of your garage to pull the dust in the air down. Also if possible wet down the area you are painting in with water to keep the dust on the ground and not in the air. These are the basics and if you want it to look anything like a decent paint job these are a must. Also if the gouges are that bad then use a filler or glaze or whatever they call the dang stuff now to fill in the gouges. If they are really bad use a plastic filler. What you want should not take more then one weekend to do and there are many many books at the local library that will fil in the parts we miss. Ed

 

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Ed's got it. Just before you paint...

1) Pick a calm day (if you are painting outside)
1) Blow it off outside. Let the dust settle and blow it off again.
2) Vacuum (assuming you are inside)
3) Wet down your paint area (especially if you are outside).
4) Degrease
5) Tack cloth
6) Filter your paint

Whatever you do, don't do what I did one day. I could see waves of grass pollen, being blown off the fields. I painted outside, 75' feet from one of the fields. Needless to say, I had a repaint to do.

 

Mommudder, I just read my last post and it was not as funny as I intended. I do apoligize if it souds wrong.

Aekisu, in my much younger days I thought I wanted to do the painting for a living. Believe it or not to make any money at it you must have talent and be a fair artist. I have the mechanics of it down pat but I suck when it comes to doing custom work. I finished my college and became an engineer. Much less artistry and much less work. I will be doing the paint work on my 54 ford truck though. And as you said if at first I don't succeed I will get PO'd and take it to a professional. LOL Ed