How do I take that motor out? Do I have to drill all the rivits out or can I detatch it some other way, Trying not to have to take the whole window out. Will try the scrap yards for a motor and with luck can find one that works.Thanks

 

I had to drill the pop rivet out to get mine out. When I installed the other one I used a small bolt and nut. If you have trouble finding one out of another bronco 2 check other ford cars. The ends may be different but they can be changed. Its not the easiest to change but it can be done.

 

Did you try the motor without the nylon/plastic gear in it? I thought I needed to replace the entire motor until I tried it without the gear. The motor ran fine and spun the worm gear inside. It only costs 15.00 to replace the plastic gear vice 45.00 for the motor. I hope your problem lies in the gear and not the motor.

By the way, use a good grease when placing everything back together. If you ripped the weather-proofing when you had to peel it off the door, use a home silicone based glue and some "painter's plastic" (a sheet of plastic that painters use as a drop-cloth) to make a new one. I did it several months ago and it is still weather tight.

Best of luck with your door...and make sure that you put in nuts and bolts back in the holes where the rivits were. If you ever have to do anything with the window again, you will thank yourself.

 

Me bad. Misread the thread. I thought he was talking about replacing the power door lock motor.

 

CrazyFazy, I need to do the actuator/motor assembly in my power door lock next. It is my driver's side. How is it done and how much does it cost. Nothing moves or even makes a sound on my driver's side lock. Both of the other locks work fine. Would the problem lay in the motor/actuator assembly or in the wiring?

Thanks!

Tim Abrams
1988 B2 XLT V6, A4LD, 107000 miles, 2x4

 

Just drill the pop rivet out and it will come out. Takes a little maneuvering around to get it out as its in a bad location. I would check the wiring at the door lock switch first before assuming its the door lock actuator. Check it on both sides of the switch. As I said you can change the ends on these if you cant find the one you need. When you put the new one in find yourself a short bolt and nut to hold it back on. This is kind of hard to use but unless you can find the proper pop rivet this is what you are stuck with unless someone else knows some other way. My drivers side always stuck on me. The others would work fine but I would have to hit the switch over and over to get it to open and close. I sprayed some spray lubricant on the lock itself where it goes thru the door panel and now they work better than ever. Be prepared as I had a hard time getting my hand in to work on mine. Average time: about a little over an hour or a 6 pack of beer and a couple cuss words. LOL. Good luck and post again if you need any help.

 

Thanks Crazy...looks like I have a new project tomarrow. Shiner Bock and an old Ford Power Lock Accuator, could life be any better?

Thanks again.

Tim

 

My problem has been the passenger side. Works for a year or two and then quits. I just bought an actuator on line for $4 and will install it this weekend. The Ford actuators are hard to come by and expensive if you can find a new one. Got one out of the junk yard last year and it lasted 6 months before it failed. I will keep you posted if this one works.

 

I tried one of those $4 ones and all though it works , the linkage is real hard to get correct, cant seem to make mine work the lock all the way, partial up,partial down, hard to get the emulator tight enought to keep from moving.
good luck

 

yeah be sure its not the wiring, becasue that is a common problem, i know that i had the same thing on my drivers side when i went to replace the motor, i could hear a clicking in the frame, and replaced the wire for like 2.00. so make sure before you change it.

 

hazzard64

It was the wiring...the previous owner was not smart enough to electrical tape around some terminal butts that he put in. The wire was completely corroded through. It cost about 70 cents to fix rather than the 35.00 for an actuator. THANKS!

Beers,

Tim
1988 Bronco II, XLT, V6, 107000 no (visible) leaks!