Hello, I'm still learning about these diesels and ford for that matter. The passenger side U joint (inner) is getting bad. How difficult is it to replace, was told by a fella that u had to burn it out. That doesnt seem right to me at all. But it does look like it can be a bear to do. Any help would be great. It has inside locks if that makes a difference

Thanks

Brad

 

you will want to get a good service book haynes or chiltons depending on witch axel is in your truck you could be taking the whole thing apart if its a newer ifs 50 you will most likley have to take it all apart both sides and the front drive shaft and drop the dif case to get at the retanier clip if you have a small c frame press you might try to do it with the case still in the cross frame?????? never had to do one yet but im sure the time wll come

good luck and keep us posted
butch

 

Update: the entire drive shaft has play in it. The outer Ujoint assembly I can move the whole thing up and down and side to side the ujoint itself seems to be ok. the inner one is gettin bad , i held it with pliars . But where the axle goes inthe to "pumpkin" that has a little bit of play as well. This all kinda seems scary and by that I mean $$$$. 4x4 is just as expensive as a boat . But all seems worth it

 

watt year is your truck and the gear ratio
i have 81 1ton ifs 50 with 410 gears still in the truck
be back later
rabbit eggs await

 

The truck is an 88 f 250 it doesnt have 410's in it. The guys told me 383? if that sounds right, the truck doesnt rev high on the highway. Dana 44 was mentioned in the conversation . It seems like there is bearing gone in the hub if that makes sence . Like I saim I'm new and just going by what seems logical

Thanks

Brad

 

There are two frontends that are IFS. The dana 44 and 50. They are basically identical except the 50 just has bigger pieces. You probably have the 44. The outer axle u-joints are simple to replace. If you are talking about the one in the center of the axle right underneath the oil pan, it is a lot more work, but not really that complicated.

You need a manual, a wrench for the hub nuts. It's a round socket with 4 little square teeth on it. And a weekend.

Take the wheels off, take the brake calipers off, take the hubs out using the manual and either a torx or allen wrench. Take the spindle/hub nuts off, take the locking ring off, ( Some have a ratcheting locking ring, others have a flat washer and a second spindle/hub nut behind it next the the outer bearing) pull the hub/disk assembly off. Take the spindle off using 9/16 socket on the 8 bolts that you will see. Wrap the spindle in a heavy rag and tap it a couple of times with a big hammer. Then use a screwdriver/prybar wedged under the spindle and keep tapping it with a hammer and wiggling it till it comes off. Now you should see the axle stub and the outer u-joint. On the drivers side you can pull the axle straight out of the pumpkin. On the Pass side you have to pull the outer axle out of the rubber boot. Now get under the truck and take off the front drive-line. Then un-bolt the bolts on the front of the housing ( should be 10 or so ) then the big ones on the drivers side that hold it to the housing over by the spring. By now you should have oil leaking out all over. Carefully wiggle the pumpkin breaking the silicone seal ( if it didn't already do it ) be careful not to let it drop while you are taking out the last bolt or two. Now you can pull the housing out from under the truck.

Take the housing out and look down inside. You will see the spider gears and where the right hand stub shaft goes into the spider gears. Push in on the shaft till you see the small c-clip on the end of the stub. Take a clean screwdriver or two and push it back off the axle. (Don't lose it!) Now pull the stub shaft out and do your thing with the u-joint.

Don't worry about a little play in the stub shaft to the spider gears. That's normal. Now put in new seals in both sides of the diff and your stub shaft with new joint. Clean off the diff housings and apply silicone. Once it's set then stab it all back together. ( it really helps to have a floorjack, or helper since that thing weighs what seems like a ton ). Then put everything back together like it came out.

While you are in there you really should replace all the u-joints and all of the seals. There are 8 seals that you need minimum. The hub seals for both sides. The small rubber 0-ring looking spindle seals and the big rubber axle seals for both sides. The axle seals for both sides ( I had to order the axle seals, everything else was in stock at autozone. ) When you put the spindles back on be sure and clean and repack the needle bearing in the back of them. I use penzoil marine white grease because these things see a lot of water and crud, and that grease is amazing in how well it hates water. Then bolt the spindles back on, torque them to spec and finish with the wheelbearings and hubs.

You just saved yourself 500 dollars and learned more about front-end work than most ASE shop mechanics know.

Good luck.

 

butch a 250 d is right, that is the way it is to be done. You can burn them out with out all the time spent on taking it apart. It is pretty tuff to get the new one in, not a lot of room, but it can be done. I would still recomend taking it apart, changing all 3 u-joints, and the fluid.

Bob

 

Guys thanks for all the info. Here was my decision. I borrowed a plasma cutter and burned it out. Making sure not to let the shaft get too hot. I modified a long skinny C clamp for a press and away I went. I really couldnt afford to lay the truck up for too long I have to move this weekend for a new job, but I got the job done. Again thanks for all the help great site!!

Brad