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i just had put in a new clutch and pressure plate for my 86 f150 and also a new slave cylinder. the clutch remains extremely low and practically have to put it throw the floor to change gears. the mechanic said it doesnt have a adjuster nad that the clutch will have a just as long as a life as if it higher. is this the truth? the clutch has always been alittle low, that thats when i couldnt shift it before and they said i needed a new clutch. now i'm thinking that the old clutch may still have been good but just needed adjusting if that can be done. any help out there?
If you have a hydraulic clutch and I am not mistaken, the master cyl for the clutch is mounted to the floor pan. Folow the linkage inside the cab from the pedal to the cyl, push on the clutch and see if the floor moves. I had a company van and went through two new clutches before I found the problem.
The problem is the floor fractures where the clutch master cyl is located and when you push on the clutch, the cyl and the fractured floor move down and negate any clutch pedal movement. You have to weld up the cracks in the floor and then the clutch cyl will be solidly mounted and the clutch will work like new.
My ’84 had similar symptoms. The firewall sheet metal where the clutch master cylinder bolts on was fatigued. The master cylinder was moving forward as the clutch pedal was depressed. The problem was fixed by reinforcing the sheet metal on the inside of the firewall.
I had to reinforce my 1985 E150 Van floor where the slave mounts. Ford made a bad, weak design. I made a bracket from sheet metal and screwed it into place. It did not come out to the same height as stock. I took the stock link rod that pushes the slave cylinder and modified it to have adjustment. I cut it into two pieces, shorted it about 1/2" and threaded the cut ends. Hardware stores have nuts that are about 1 1/2" long. I welded two together, end to end. Screw the link rods into the weldment, use jam nuts on the rods to hold your adjustment inplace. Make sure you have pedal free play so your clutch is fully ingaged.
The other thing to check with the hydralic clutchs is the flywheel. The are touchy if they get worn down to far. My dad had a farm truck with one and it was a pain untill he put in a new flywheel. I hate hydralic clutchs, if you cant push the pedal, dont need to be driving a clutch. Also people are forgeting how to double clutch which is a lost art any more.
Also people are forgeting how to double clutch which is a lost art any more.
thats because no one teaches how to, and most modern cars are designed so that you don't need to. i've driven cars where you could shift without the clutch, cars today have so many safety features. thats the fewer the electronic safety measures, the more control the driver and mechanic have to peak the ride. hence mechanical clutches, mechanical dizzys, mechanical secondaries, etc. on so many performance rides.... ahhh, don't get me started, don't want to steal the thread