straight 6 ID#
Last edited by slowride59; Apr 10, 2004 at 09:22 AM. Reason: add the year truck
I'm pretty sure you will need to measure the stroke as those common engine parts will probably share the same number.
Maybe ...Maybe not.
Give a try first.
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Loosen ALL the plugs, remove the center wire from the coil to the dizzy. You don't want spark here. Either label or leave all the wires on, except for #1. Remove plug #1 completely.
With a socket, turn the crank (nut at the end of the balancer pully) with a 12" peice of stiff stright wire or rod droped down into the #1 cylinder. Find the absolute lowest point of the piston. Mark it compared to some reference point (I used lower edge of the rocker cover)
Now, the tricky part -- the pistons are cupped (lower in the middle), and your wire is going in at a lit of an angle. As the piston rises, you must maintain the wire in about the middle of the piston, and try to keep the angle about the same as it emerges from the spark plug hole. Get her up to the maximum height. Mark against your reference point again. May take a couple of trys to get this just right, but you are doing no damage.
Now measure. 240 is 3.27 stroke, 300 is 3.98 Your numbers will be longer, due to error and the fact that the angle which the wire emerges is varying. But if its between 3.27 and about 3.5 is probly a 240 and if its 4 or a little more, it probly a 300.
When you are at TDC (top dead center) you should look down at your timing cover and balancer pully while you are at it, as see where the timing mark is. In cylinder #1, it should be at about 0. If its off a little, probly just error on your part as to where TDC is. If its off a lot, your harmonic balancer may be spun (not uncommon on a 35 plus year old truck). This does NOT mean the ignition is off timing, but if/when you try to time an engine with a slipped or spun balancer, you will have hell to pay. If its off by quite a bit, you should replace it (or have a pro check it out).
The other methods are harder, includeing dropping the pan to look at the crank #s etc.
later...





