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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 03:04 PM
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Engine supply in DFW?

Hey Amigos,

I'm looking for a reputable place in the DFW area where I can buy a 302 long block for my 86 Bronco. I called City Motor Supply on Harry Hines in Dallas, and they quoted me $1225 for a long block, which I thought was kind of high. On the other end of the spectrum, Blaine Motor Supply quoted me $675. I'm willing to pay a little extra if I know I'm getting good quality workmanship. Anyone have any suggestions on where would be a good place to go?

Thanks for any advice, past experiences, etc.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 07:29 PM
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Check the ad's in the truck trader, there is some good deals in there. Since your 86 should be EFI there a bit higher in price. Also check out some of the late model wrecking yards. you can find some good deals on low mileage new roller engines. with full ***. and brackets
 
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 08:47 PM
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From: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
my friend got a 350 from blaines. Its works fine. All the parts they use are melling i beleive. And they will build it to your specs if you want, Only we found this out from a friend after he already bought the engine. Also make sure you have good cores to give them. a $50 block from a scrap yard might save you $100.

Where abouts are you up here?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 12:40 AM
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Thanks for the replies, fellas. I used to have a Truck Trader laying around somewhere. I'll go check in there.

Good advice on the scrapyard core. And that's good to know that Blaines will build me one to my liking, but when I called them and asked them about putting in a mild RV cam, the guy advised against it, claiming it would be better to install a computer chip instead? Anyone have any opinions on that, or any suggestions on anything else to add to get me a little extra hp and torque on a 302 for an 86 Bronco? (FWIW, it's mated to an AOD, BW 1345 t-case and stock drivetrain with 3.55 gears.)

Anyway, I'm in Lancaster, just south of Dallas. Where are y'all at? Any Ford truck/Bronco clubs in the area where you get together and do wrench-a-thons?

Thanks again for the advice and take care amigos!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 05:16 PM
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i'm in carrollton(north of dallas)

and if you put the stock fuel injection back on it with a different cam it could act funny. The programming was made for the cam that came in it. So if you did one you might have to do the other. Maybe not though.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 06:37 PM
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Watch out

Several will quote you a price and screw you later. National is one. Quoted 950 on a 2.9 and it ended up at 2300. Getting it in writing is a joke in Dallas as the jps say buyer be ware. Just wanted you to know. They got us.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 12:23 AM
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From: Just south of Dallas
Originally Posted by drewcoolness99
i'm in carrollton(north of dallas)

and if you put the stock fuel injection back on it with a different cam it could act funny. The programming was made for the cam that came in it. So if you did one you might have to do the other. Maybe not though.
Oh, OK. That's good to know. I was reading a little about the older EFI speed density and how it may react funny to air intake mods, but I guess that can also apply to camshafts. I also read somewhere that switching to the newer style manifold absolute pressure (MAP) and mass airflow would help with that, but I understand it can cost about $1000? Any internal block options that might help that won't screw up the stock speed density EFI but would still provide a little extra hp and torque? Or would that cost just as much as if I went with the newer style MAP and mass airflow?

Take care,

Ed
 
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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ol yeller
Several will quote you a price and screw you later. National is one. Quoted 950 on a 2.9 and it ended up at 2300. Getting it in writing is a joke in Dallas as the jps say buyer be ware. Just wanted you to know. They got us.
Thanks for the warning on National! That's the kind of info and experience I need to hear! If you don't mind me asking, what excuse did they give for going from $950 to $2300 (just so I know if they try to hustle me by telling me something similar)?

Ed Q.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 12:33 AM
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switching from speed density to MAF would require a MAF sensor, and the computer out of a truck with MAF support. I don't think you can use a mustang computer unless you want to change the firing order.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by drewcoolness99
switching from speed density to MAF would require a MAF sensor, and the computer out of a truck with MAF support. I don't think you can use a mustang computer unless you want to change the firing order.
Excellent info! I'm still new to Fords, so this info really helps. You guys rock.

Anyway, I guess that's why I read somewhere that switching to MAF on a truck/Bronco would be expensive. Since I'm on somewhat of a budget, I'll just stick with the old speed density and Bronco firing order.

Anyone know of any mild, bottom end options that might work for a little extra hp/torque that won't break the bank or cause any speed density quirkiness?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 05:21 PM
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Ddn't include

Resurfacing heads manifolds, any rubber, water pump supposed flywheel. We bought a used rebuild with 5000 on it for 700 and put it in. Oh instead of flushing the Radiator they wanted 400 for one. Discount radiator had 1 for 110. Oh and valve covers as well. Just said bend over.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 08:36 PM
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the SD EFI system can handle a mild RV cam w/out any troubles. stroking thm for more CiD is where you'll find problems. this site will help. www.fordfuelinjection.com after reading there I'm half temptend to using the MAF system I got with my 351w. Just leaving the SD system in my truck.

Since no chips for the 86 it'll cost a arm and a leg to have a custom chip burnt.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 09:42 AM
  #13  
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I personally use and like city motor supply. Good work, good reputation. I'm building mine myself but they're doing my machine work. Good prices on heads too (DOs for $270 a pair ready to run, including core charge!).
No matter who you get along block from it's a good idea to double check all of the torque specs on the fasteners and make sure it's really clean!
Be easy one it, not letting it rev past 3500rpm, the first 1500 miles. Change the oil and check everything and you're good to go another 150,000 miles
Nick
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 12:09 PM
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Thanks a bunch, Nick, for sharing your experience. I guess that may be why they're more expensive - you get what you pay for.

By the way, do you need any help with your project? Or would you mind if I watched and learned? I'm new to Fords and have never removed or re-installed an engine before. Most I've done is R&R the tranny and t-case. Once I replace the brakes, I'll be tackling the engine project, and if you don't mind me helping or watching, it would at least help me learn and let me know what I'm in for. But if you don't want to be bugged, that's cool.

Take care,

Ed Q.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 02:38 PM
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can you get gt-40's /gt40ps from them?
 
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