Rust terminating products?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 232
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From: Tampa Bay, FL
Rust terminating products?
Hello my FTE friends!Any experiences with the rust killers ... paint on, spray on, dip?
I heard some good stories, yet no actual testimonials --- help me with product recommondations please.
Thanks in advance!
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
Hi Greg - long time no hear.
I agree with Fordaholic as far as the blasting and Ospho - I can get a gallon of Ospho at Home depot for $10-$15. Cheap compared to other products out there.
What to put over it depends on what part you're doing. If it's something like the frame and you want it to not rust and look good, then I'd recommend something like POR-15 or ZeroRust. We've used POR on most all of our non-visable parts becaues that's what we found first. Heard many good things about ZeroRust also, but have never tried it. I hear it works the same as POR as far as one step protection, just doesn't have the harmful isocyanates in it. We picked up the POR a couple years back at one of the Turkey Rod Runs. I've sprayed it, bristle brushed it and spounge brushed it on and when it dries the results are very nice.
If you're talking about the actual body parts, that's a different direction. I'd still go with the Ospho for protection, but you should use regular auto paints/primers to cover and protect.
I agree with Fordaholic as far as the blasting and Ospho - I can get a gallon of Ospho at Home depot for $10-$15. Cheap compared to other products out there.
What to put over it depends on what part you're doing. If it's something like the frame and you want it to not rust and look good, then I'd recommend something like POR-15 or ZeroRust. We've used POR on most all of our non-visable parts becaues that's what we found first. Heard many good things about ZeroRust also, but have never tried it. I hear it works the same as POR as far as one step protection, just doesn't have the harmful isocyanates in it. We picked up the POR a couple years back at one of the Turkey Rod Runs. I've sprayed it, bristle brushed it and spounge brushed it on and when it dries the results are very nice.
If you're talking about the actual body parts, that's a different direction. I'd still go with the Ospho for protection, but you should use regular auto paints/primers to cover and protect.
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6
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Try Rustmort, made by SEM. It is acidic and you paint it on with a brush. It turns black when it cures, An excellent product which i highly recommened. You can also prime and paint over it, but its best used on unseen body panels.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,011
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From: South Dakota
Originally Posted by stoutford
Try Rustmort, made by SEM. It is acidic and you paint it on with a brush. It turns black when it cures, An excellent product which i highly recommened. You can also prime and paint over it, but its best used on unseen body panels.
Glad to hear about someone using Rustmort. I had seen it and wanted to tryit out. Thanks!
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Tampa Bay, FL
Thanks folks!
Need to kill rust starting to develop where the top of cab meets drip edge. Hope to apply from inner side and win the battle.
Need to kill rust starting to develop where the top of cab meets drip edge. Hope to apply from inner side and win the battle.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 87
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From: Claresholm, Alberta
Man it's tough to beat rust that's in a seam. Although Rust mort is a great product, I think your lookin at blasting my friend.
Chris
Alberta
Chris
Alberta
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From: NW
I have used a product called " Extend " They make a couple of versions of it. One coats, and the other hardens to the point od sandability, and primering. In a seam, where you can't sand is a problem. If you blast it, you may create some pretty big holes to worry about. Hey, rust is the pits to deal with. Especially the cancerous kind. Surface rust is not too bad, but the deep stuff is hard to stop. 