Just got back from a trip and back into my Ranger...After replacing all the sensors except the egr set up, my Ranger still has no top end power at all..It looses speed soon as you hot overdrive above 55...It has a new low pressure pump in the tank, new fuel filter, a full tune up kit including the wires, new injectors...I added up over 900 dollars the last month in the shop...The motor runs real clean, no smoke at all..The shop now says it must be the egr, I told them it acted like the timing abvance was no longer working...They said the part was over 200 dollars...Ouch, I'm handicapped on a limited income, with the brains in this forum, is there something being missed I can check before replacing another part???This truck ran like a top for a week after I bought it, then it started cutting out...It would run great, then you needed full throttle and even then it lost speed, then it would suddenly "break loose' and run strong again, then bog out, over and over goin down the road...Now it has no power at all soon as it hits over 55...Any feedback is appreciated....

 

I have had the same problems with my ranger at times. However, if you want help your going to have to tell me more details such as : year , 2 or 4wd, 2.3L or 2.9L, Distributorless ignition? EEC-IV or Duraspark-II ? These things are important to know in order to diagnose the problem.

Xoryx

 

Hey! theprophet
This question was already answered in Ranger & B-series by me!
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‘90 Ranger XLT: 2.3L, EEC-IV, EFI, DIS, 2wd, Mazda 5sp

 

I had a similar problem with my 85 2.3L Ranger. Turns out it was a bad Throttle Position Sensor. However, Xoryx, is right. You need to give a little more info. on your vehicle so that it can be diagnosed.

 

btfast could be on the right track.is your tranny shifting strangly?this is also a sign it could be the TPS.

 

If you ask me it sounds like "limp" mode. The mechanic is full of crap if he is talking about the MAF sensor.... for over $200. Time and time again I've heard some mechinics misleading people.... "Limp" that truck down to NAPA (bring a cresent wrench and screwdriver w/ you. Buy the NAPA MAF ( @ $102 after you turn in your core) and put it on your truck in the parking lot... Unplug the negative battery cable for 15 minutes while your doing it. Don't just clear the codes w/ a code reader. You want to reset tables or whatever that your PCM uses to adjust AIR/FUEL mixture.

I did this to my truck (40K) and my truck does not ping or anything now. My truck pinged like hell before, when I bought it ( i have a manual 2.5L 5-speed; automatics act differently, LIKE YOURS). The MAF is what controls the AIR/FUEL mixture. Cleaning them does NOT always fix the problem.... they go bad.

By the way, put your old Motorcraft wires back on your truck if they have less than 200K on them. They are excellent wires!! Use the recommended Motorcraft spark plug as well.... Gap them right. Make sure your wires run parellel to each other (never cross them over each other). Thats why FORD spent the money on those little black connector things. Make sure they don't lean up against your fuel injector wires either. Very IMPORTANT and often overlooked when in a hurry.


P.S. Autozone sells a MAF for $75 dollars. Don't know anyone that has tried one.

Good Luck