Engine Trouble Please Help?????
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 94
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Engine Trouble Please Help?????
Guys I got truck problems and don't know what to do can you please help? I have a 1988 F150 2wd with the 300 six in it. When I bought it the guy told me he had a problem just happen where the starter stuck in the cranking position and he had to change the starter, Alternator, and the silinoid. Well I have had the truck for about 6 months and it has done it to me too. It kicked back out and quit before I could get the hood open. Can you tell me what is causing this. Also I have problem with the truck not wanting to crank after drive long distances. 30 to 40 miles it will drag a little but still crank, but 60 to 70 miles, you can forget it. She has got to cool before it will crank. It is wanting to drag after hot like the timing is off so I carried to shop let them set it no help. It just draggs like battery is dead or something. I know this is two part question but these things are bugging me.
Thanks
Keith
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 772
Likes: 0
From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Sounds like your cables are at least original and a good bet they are corroded internally.
1st off I'd replace all the battery cables. ALL FOUR OF THEM! That's right FOUR! You have a 15" from the positive post of the battery to the solenoid, then about a 70" to the positive lead of the starter!! Now for the Negative cables.
1st lead is about 40" and terminates at the frame almost directly under the battery. The fourth starts here and terminates at the starter mounting bolt.
With original equipment cable this will be one long cable with a connector about 1/2 way.
The problem being corrosion inside the sheathing of the cables which causes resistance, heat and slow cranking or no crank.
Pull off cables one at a time and clean the mounts with a toothbrush and Coca-Cola (phosphoric acid works wonders), rinse with clean water, make sure the mount is dry and shiny. Coat with a light film of DI-ELECTRIC GREASE(D.E. Grease). Attach cable end making sure it's tight. Coat with D.E. Grease. Do this with all the cables.
Use a #2 gauge or better (0 or 00) for ground cables and a #2 gauge for the positive. Increased flow, less resistance and faster cranking.
Larry
1st off I'd replace all the battery cables. ALL FOUR OF THEM! That's right FOUR! You have a 15" from the positive post of the battery to the solenoid, then about a 70" to the positive lead of the starter!! Now for the Negative cables.
1st lead is about 40" and terminates at the frame almost directly under the battery. The fourth starts here and terminates at the starter mounting bolt.
With original equipment cable this will be one long cable with a connector about 1/2 way.
The problem being corrosion inside the sheathing of the cables which causes resistance, heat and slow cranking or no crank.
Pull off cables one at a time and clean the mounts with a toothbrush and Coca-Cola (phosphoric acid works wonders), rinse with clean water, make sure the mount is dry and shiny. Coat with a light film of DI-ELECTRIC GREASE(D.E. Grease). Attach cable end making sure it's tight. Coat with D.E. Grease. Do this with all the cables.
Use a #2 gauge or better (0 or 00) for ground cables and a #2 gauge for the positive. Increased flow, less resistance and faster cranking.
Larry
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
From: Louisiana
That was going to be my suggestion for the hard crank. Fixed mine. From about 1/2 way down and to the starter the wire was hard as rock from the heat. If it keeps trying to crank after that I would change the switch on the column under the dash.
