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Old Apr 4, 2004 | 09:50 AM
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sneakys44
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help

i,ve got a 351m .. we took it out of the pickup it was in about a year and half ago and we put it in the barn ..... i took and put new plugs and wires along with fuel filters in it and set it in another pickup ..... i went to turn it over and after several tries it still was not getting gas up to the carb --so i took the line off of the line coming from #1 tank going to the dual tank valve and gas was coming out of there ... so i the took the line off of the fuel pump going to the tank and put some gas in a cup and put the line going into the fuel pump in it and turned it over and it didn't ppump any out of the glass ... so i guess thats telling me the fuel pump is out ( it was just on the motor for 1 1/2 yrs before pulling the motor out)......
but my question is .. we didn't have the coil wire hooked up to the coil waiting on another coil to come in ........the fuel pump is manual and goes inside the motor but what i was wondering was if the coil was not hooked up could that have an effect on the tank switching valuve or anything that might have been need elsewhere ... i was just thinking if the fuel pump was manual pump it should nt have mattered if the coil wire was on or not for the pump to pump fuel to the carb ...... am i thinking right or should i half tot have the coil hooked up ....
not a mech ..... thanks to any and all who response to this
 
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Old Apr 4, 2004 | 10:21 AM
  #2  
79_250RangerLariat's Avatar
79_250RangerLariat
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The coil not being hooked up isn't going to effect the fuel pump. I'd say you have a bad pump. Sitting for long periods of time doesn't do carbs/fuel pumps/ more or less any gasket that has been in contact with gas or oil good.

Not that it matters but is the selector switch, is it electric or manual? The ones that I have seen in 73-79 fords have a lever under the seat to switch tanks and a switch on the dash to switch sending units.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2004 | 10:29 AM
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sneakys44
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thanks for your help ..
the dual tank switch is on the dash and when i switch it it shows the fuel level drop from on tank to the other...... it's a 1981 heavy 3/4 ton
 
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Old Apr 4, 2004 | 11:11 AM
  #4  
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Ecuri
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From: Houston/Hope BC
A dry mechanical pump is hard to prime with just the starter. Try priming the engine before you buy a new one. I like a clear Fram G2 between the pump and the carb so I can see gasoline moving.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2004 | 11:33 AM
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okay ..... yes i have a brand new g2 on it ........ so your saying wait intil i get a coil and the just shoot some gas in the carb and see ...
i sure thought taking the rubber line going into the fuel pump and putting a bottle of gas right there going into the pump that it surely would have sucked some of it out of the glass but it didn't take any out
 
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Old Apr 4, 2004 | 02:48 PM
  #6  
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Ecuri
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From: Houston/Hope BC
Yea, thats what one would think, but keep in mind the truck idles at 600 RPM min and the starter might turn it 100 or so and the pump is lousy moving the air out at such low RPM. That has been my experiece, at least, I have yet to prime one on the starter alone, but I quit trying years ago. I pour a couple of ounces down the primary throat, and if I have an old engine that is hard to get going, I will sometimes pour some into the vent to get the bowl filled up. A load of carb-cleaner into the vent might be appropriate, followed up by a bottle of Techron. (This stuff is amazing for removing gum and varnish internally.) Unless the bowl was drained it has a nice layer of gum in it by now. Keep a heavy wet rag to toss over the bowl in case it flames. GL
 
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Old Apr 4, 2004 | 10:36 PM
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grclark351
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From: chicago burbs
what i do to start a dry carb is fill an oilsquirter with gas and fill the float bowl(s) through the bowl vent. this gives controlled priming with the accellerator pump and allows the carb to meter fuel imediately, rather than just pouring a bit of fuel down the barrels.
 
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