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I had a problem starting my other truck recently (the Bronco). I wasn't getting the battery light, but hardly anything electrical would work. If I got the truck running, the voltage was OK. But other times, it wouldn't start (no juice). Went under the hood and took some voltages with a voltmeter. 12 volts across the battery, but only 2 volts from the starter solenoid to ground. Then after a couple beers worth of thought, I tested the postive battery terminal clamp on the battery to ground. Got 2 volts again. I figured it was loose, so I wiggled it (dumb thing to do in hindsight), and it was HOT! Cleaned terminals with baking soda and water and retightened...problem solved. This may or may not be your problem, but its something to consider. Good luck!
I BOUGHT A BEATEN '99 PSD FEW MOS AGO. BATT LIGHT CAME ON & OFF. ELEC SHOP TESTED ON CAR SAID IT'S FINE & ASKED IF I WAS HAVING ANY TROUBLE STARTING IT. "NO" I ANSWERED. I'VE CHECKED CHARGING VOLTAGE WITH A DVM ENOUGH TIMES TO DETERMINE IT IS CHARGING. FIGURE IT'S JUST A WIERD FORD ELEC PROB.
CARRIED AROUND A $200 ALT ON THE SEAT W/ ME A MONTH IN CASE IT DIED. FINALLY RETURNED ALT. THIS TRK HAS SO MUCH WRONG A LITTLE LIGHT ISN'T MAJOR.
WAS REAL SORRY TO FIND WHAT A JUNKER I'D BOUGHT. NEEDED SOMETHING FAST & THEY ARRANGED GREAT FINANCING. NOW IT'S DEADS & I'M OUT A TRK AGAIN!!!
You look like you know this van. Maybe you can also answer this: if they're the same, then, do they have separate charging circuits, or the same. And, do they supply different circuits, or they are simply connected parallel to provide more current to the same circuits?
You look like you know this van. Maybe you can also answer this: if they're the same, then, do they have separate charging circuits, or the same. And, do they supply different circuits, or they are simply connected parallel to provide more current to the same circuits?
OOPS!! I thought you had a truck! I don't know about the van. Sorry.
Well my 16 volts finally burnt a wire from the solinoid to alternator so I thought it might be the regulator..wellI replaced the burnt wire & installed a new regulator & guess what..same 16 volts..my gauge still shows straight up in the middle of normal but with a meter it shows 16 volts..any more ideas? I dont want to burn the wire or anything else up again..
On A Diesel The 2 Battys Are In Parallel To Give Extra Amperage For Cranking The Engine. They Both Charge & Discharge Together. They Shouldn't Charge Much Over 14 Volts Max Or Youv'e Got A Problem. As With Any Electrical Problem First Make Sure The Battys Have Sufficient 'water' Level And All Connections, Terminals & Wires Are In Good Shape. The Charging & Starting Circuits Run From The Battery Thru The Device (starter, Alt, Etc) & Thru The Frame Of The Vehicle To Return To The Batty (according To Conventional Thinking). A Bad Or Missing Ground Strap Anywhere Such As Between Engine & Body/frame Has Caused Some Real Weird Problems In The Past. But Even With A Bad Connection I Don't Think A Good Alt Should Overcharge Like Yours. It Is Possible To Get A Defective New/reman Part. I've Seen It Myself. Double Check All & If Alt Is Overcharging Take It Back Or Let Them Take It Off If They Will. By The Way All Elect Connections Should Be Shiney & Clean When You Put Them Together. To Keep Water & Dirt Out Use Some Silicone Grease Or In A Pinch Wheel Bearing Grease Or Vaseline. I Always Use Something On Battery Terminals Due To Their Corrosive Enviroment. Starter & Solenoid Connections Are Other Similar Areas. I Do Hope You Get You Charging Problems Rectified. Ted PS AS AN EXAMPLE SEE FTE HOME PAGE 2ND ARTICLE UNDER FORD INDUSTRY NEWS: "FORD RECALLS..."
Last edited by TED'S AUTO REPAIR; Aug 28, 2004 at 02:59 AM.
Reason: add'l tip
OK..I figured out that I am only running 14.3 or so volts by my voltmeter..my battery was down in the volt meter which for some reason made it read too high..new battery & it shows right now..I do remember that I was running the flashing wrecker lights on top for about 20 miles & that must have been what fried my wire or caused it for some reason..maybe my voltage regulator was screwing up then or something..well now I have a new voltage regulator..hope it doesnt burn the wire again..must have shot fuse also because my wrecker lights dont work now..havent had time to check it..just thought id post my findings so far..
Thanks for the help..
Brian
Originally Posted by TED'S AUTO REPAIR
On A Diesel The 2 Battys Are In Parallel To Give Extra Amperage For Cranking The Engine. They Both Charge & Discharge Together. They Shouldn't Charge Much Over 14 Volts Max Or Youv'e Got A Problem. As With Any Electrical Problem First Make Sure The Battys Have Sufficient 'water' Level And All Connections, Terminals & Wires Are In Good Shape. The Charging & Starting Circuits Run From The Battery Thru The Device (starter, Alt, Etc) & Thru The Frame Of The Vehicle To Return To The Batty (according To Conventional Thinking). A Bad Or Missing Ground Strap Anywhere Such As Between Engine & Body/frame Has Caused Some Real Weird Problems In The Past. But Even With A Bad Connection I Don't Think A Good Alt Should Overcharge Like Yours. It Is Possible To Get A Defective New/reman Part. I've Seen It Myself. Double Check All & If Alt Is Overcharging Take It Back Or Let Them Take It Off If They Will. By The Way All Elect Connections Should Be Shiney & Clean When You Put Them Together. To Keep Water & Dirt Out Use Some Silicone Grease Or In A Pinch Wheel Bearing Grease Or Vaseline. I Always Use Something On Battery Terminals Due To Their Corrosive Enviroment. Starter & Solenoid Connections Are Other Similar Areas. I Do Hope You Get You Charging Problems Rectified. Ted PS AS AN EXAMPLE SEE FTE HOME PAGE 2ND ARTICLE UNDER FORD INDUSTRY NEWS: "FORD RECALLS..."