Hello all, I've been readin this board for awhile now, but his is my first post . I'm having some steering issues on my '93 EB 5.8 and I hope the expertise of the board can help.

A little background info, the truck has about 129k on it, and I've only owned it for about a month. I'm not sure if it came stock this way, but it has push-button 4x4 and manual hubs. My manual doesn't show this as an option... so I'm thinking somebody switched the hubs out (?). This problem first showed up the first time I tried out the 4x4.

I've noticed that even in 4x2, whenever I make a sharp left turn (i.e. u-turn or parking) there is a definite "lurching". Not the case during the same type of right turn. it's the same type of lurching I would expect if driving in 4L with manual hubs, although I would expect it on every turn, not just L. Also, I've noticed that (also in 4x2) right curves at speed seem alot more planted and "sure" while left turns seem very loose and unsettling, with a tendency towards oversteer.

Keep in mind guys that I'm a long-time Ford guy (It's in my blood :-)) and shadetree mechanic, and I've wanted a Bronco since I was about 6... but this is my first 4x4 of any kind so I'm kinda out of my element when it comes to front-end. Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated!

-JD

 

JD,
Check everything you can that related to your steering if there's any play (ball joints,tie rods, etc...) Also check the radius arm bushings.
Nothing wrong with push button 4x4 and manuals hubs. I have the push button and auto hubs set-up, nothing but problems. Switched autos to a good set of warn manuals and have had no problems. Hope this will help.

Warr

 

welcome to the board, like mentioned above just get uder there check everthing even shocks, a bad shock can cause weird fellings, u-joints, wheele bearings, its realy not as bad as it seems once you get into it. best investment you can make is a HAYNES manual #36058 $12.00 bucks at most parts stores, money well spent! DW

 

DW every time I've read one of your posts, i hear it in my head in the voice of NASCAR's own DW (Darrell Waltrip)

Anyway thx for the advice guys. On one hand I'm hoping someone has had this problem before so it's an easier fix, but OTOH I hope it's just something loose that can either be tightened or replaced cheaply ( :-) ) and I learn something about my truck's front end

 

It could be a a lot of things. I would take it in for a front end alingment and let them tell you what parts need to be replaced. at least you get it an alignment and find out whats wrong.

 

Oh no now i wonder if i should change my name. DW

 

Two thoughts...If it's lurching at low speeds at the steering lock, like in a u-turn, check the tire-to-frame area to see if the tire is rubbing on the frame at the full turn position. Also, I had a scout that was lurching at low speed full turn positions and it was the limited slip differential. I replaced the lubricant with the right oil and additives, did a few figure 8 turns and no more problem.

 

Mine does the same thing and was told by a friend that I just needed to replace all of my front shaft u-joints but I have not done it yet. Like the others said, it could be anything mentioned but crawl under there and check that everything is tight. As far as 4X4 button and manual hubs, the button is normal and the manual hubs were installed probably when the auto's failed.

Good luck,

 

well, i had a chance to check out the suspension components yesterday afternoon.

I had to pull the wheel off when i got home b/c during the drive home i felt a pop in my brakes and i lost almost all brake pressure. I pumped the brakes a few times and regained enough pressure to stop and make it the remaining 2 miles home. Once I did this, a horrible grinding sound started.

upon inspection, the inner (against the piston) pad had broken free from its mounts and shot into the dust shield. With no pad to hold it back, and me pumping the brakes, the piston had firmly planted itself against the back of the rotor. While i was down there, i took the opportunity to wiggle and examine all the steering components. The only thing my untrained eye could find was that the front shock was dented and rubbing a wear line on itself. Everything else *seemed* ok. I did notice alot of play in the rotors, but my buddy said his Z71 does the same thing so i thought maybe it's just a 4x4 thing. like i said this is my first.

so i jumped in my gas-sipper nissan and headed to autozone. after replacing the pads on both front wheels (to make it even ), i put the wheels back on and test-drove it. Still had the steering problem, but now my brakes are very soft. This weekend I'll flush and bleed the lines. Is there something else I should be looking for in the steering while I've got the wheels off again?

Thanks again

-JD

 

There should be very little play or no play at all in the rotors. Your wheel bearing needs to be tighten. Pick up a good repair manual (Haynes) and it'll tell you the proper adjustment.

Warr

 

OK With all that I saw above....I would have some agreement. Your rotors should really have no play in them at all. If they do...try tightening up the axel nut a bit. You should still be able to turn the rotor freely with out it having any play. But..since it has been like this...i would get new bearings just to be on the safe side. As for the "Bump steer". Jack the front end of the truck up and spin the tires. You may find that one of the hubs isn't disengaging. That would give you some probs. When you spin the tires the axels should not turn. Although..sometimes they do...try holding the axel in place then turning the tire. If they still seem locked...then check your hubs. They may not have been installed correctly or just have froze up and wont disengage.

 

ok, so just to let u guys know, i do have a Haynes manual

I'm probably wrong here, but in Park, if one of my hubs isn't disengaging, shouldn't the (engaged) wheel be locked? This is kinda what i thought at first, but since i can turn them both freely, i figured they were correctly disengaging.

Thanks for the tip on tightening the axle nut and replacing the bearings. I'll do that this weekend when i flush the brake system. since I had the brake issue, I'm wondering if the hubs weren't properly re-mounted when they were last removed to do a brake job. Apparently something wasn't done right, otherwise i don't think that pad would have come loose like it did. Hell, i might as well go ahead and replace the calipers and rotors while I'm at it. I didn't notice any damage to the rotor, but the caliper piston sure was ground up. I know that new rotors for my '96 F-150 2WD were only like $40 apiece. I'm hoping that these aren't going to be much more. Once I get all this done, I'll post to let the board know if this fixed my steering woes.

-JD

 

If the hub is not disengaging, then it will just turn the axel with the wheel. It wont "Lock " the wheel itself. Now I dont know if you have done hubs before...but here is a link that has instructions and pictures for replacing the ball joints. Just stop when you get to where you want to be.
Good Luck!!!

http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbron...balljoint.html

 

thanks for the info billybob... I was just about to ask where that site was . I'm pulling the driver's side hub apart right now b/c i lost another brakepad (2nd in 24 hours) and i believe it's due to the large amount of play in the rotor. also, you're right the driver's side hub is not disengaging properly. the front driveshaft turns with the driver's side wheel. I haven't checked the passenger side yet. once i get this hub tightened, I'll remount the wheel and switch sides. Thanks again for the support y'all and I hope some of you are online tonight cause i know I'm gonna need more

-JD

 

ok, so in case anyone has been wondering, here's the update:

I pulled my wheel off, and started pulling apart the hub to tighten the rotor down. Following the awesome step-by-step instructions found at the link above, I got the hub removed. Once I pulled it out, I realized that something was badly wrong. Never having seen the internals of a Warn manual locking hub before, I didn't know what it shoudl look like, but i knew that there shouldn't be THAT MUCH metal floating around in the grease.

Long story short, the pin on the rear locking nut had sheared itself off. The front locking nut had come completely loose inside the hub and was tearing the out of everything. to top it off, the rear nut was flattening out threads something horrible due to all the stress the rotor was putting on it. so... I needed new hubs.

The guys at my local 4WheelParts store (see http://www.4wheelparts.com) told me that my Warn premium hubs had a lifetime warranty, so I removed the existing ones and exchanged them straight-up for a new set.

after cleaning out all the old grease (and metal shavings) out I regreased, resealed the bearings, greased some more, installed new hubs, brake pads and calipers and that part is all done. No I just gotta figure out my damn STERRING PROBLEM :-)

-JD