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Several years ago I tore out a 24' lane of blacktop from our parking lot. It is the strip that leads from the street to the loading dock. We are a heavy equipment company so we see "very" heavy trucks backing in. I excavated down an average of 10" +/- and reinforced with plenty of rebar. I also went with 5000 psi concrete. The concrete is still perfect today. Concrete is the best choice if money isn't an issue. From the material standpoint, it is relatively cheap. I think the key to a sturdy pour is to correctly "tamp" the ground under the area to eliminate any settling afterwards. Then, go with a stronger mix, bumping up to 4,000 or 5,000 psi doesn't add much to the cost per yard but makes a difference in the strength. Also, the asphalt will need to be re-sealed frequently, and that should be considered in the cost of ownership. From a re-sale standpoint, concrete will give you the best return.
WOW...thanks guys for all of the info, I'll check out those sites later on today, gotta go drive my 20,000 lb truck so I can pay for this excursion...heh....
If you were only driving on it (like a road), asphalt would be fine, but since you are parking on it you had better spring for the concrete. Next time you are driving on an asphalt road, notice how good it looks between the traffic signals, but it is falling apart at the signals and at the bus stops. This is because it can not support the weight of the larger vehicles for sustained periods of time.
What ever you decide to use, it is only as good as whats underneath it, ie. the sub grade material and the base material. Clay and organic (black dirt) materials make poor sub grade material. Sand is a better choice (12"). On top of that, class 5 (crushed rock) is a good base material, 6"-8" deep.
I have about 1/3 of an acre of blacktop in my backyard. I would like to get it "re-freshed" some day. It is basically solid but needs a new "top" Any suggestions?
Mike,
This can be resurfaced with new asphalt to make it new. All that they have to do is fix any problem areas in the current blacktop & then they will put another lift on what you already have.
Ford79,
You have a very good point. The surface is only as good as what lies beneath it.
ChevySniper,
The sole decision on what you want to do is completly yours. Don't let anyone force you into doing in a certain way except for you wife.
Like I said earlier, investigate all your options first & look at all the contractors that are able to do the job.
This is not only a expense that will be coming out of your pocket but it also is a expense that will raise or decrease the value of your home depending on how the quality of work is.
You asked earlier about "FREEZE FACTORS". This depends on how cold & hot it gets in your area. Both have limitations that can only be stretch so far.
Mike,
This can be resurfaced with new asphalt to make it new. All that they have to do is fix any problem areas in the current blacktop & then they will put another lift on what you already have.
Ford79,
You have a very good point. The surface is only as good as what lies beneath it.
ChevySniper,
The sole decision on what you want to do is completly yours. Don't let anyone force you into doing in a certain way except for you wife.
Like I said earlier, investigate all your options first & look at all the contractors that are able to do the job.
This is not only a expense that will be coming out of your pocket but it also is a expense that will raise or decrease the value of your home depending on how the quality of work is.
You asked earlier about "FREEZE FACTORS". This depends on how cold & hot it gets in your area. Both have limitations that can only be stretch so far.
Parks911, I agree with you, either product would work in this application. 20,000 lbs. is not an excessively heavy load. A class "A" motor home could weigh substantially more than that and you see them parked everywhere. The "rutting" that was mentioned earlier in the streets by the stop lights is attributed to the weight of the vehicles "grabbing" the asphalt as the vehicles are being brought to a stop from driving speeds; the braking action. In some of the areas by me they have started cutting out the first several yards of asphalt behind the stop lights and replacing that with concrete, while leaving the remainder of the street asphalt. This wouldn't be an issue in your application. Anyway, I've had both in my driveway, and I would say whichever you choose, get a reputable contractor and ask for references so you can drive by and see some of their work!! Good luck
all 3 estimates that I have received said they were going to use a #2 base. Does that sound right?
I'm leaning toward the concrete now that you guys mention the cost of ownership. I can't see concrete getting old or being re-surfaced. Either way, I feel a lot more prepared to go to the contractors (or the paper) with all the info you guys have given.....thanks.
Here at school. We have those big buses (Greyhound type)that go around campus stopping at their stops and picking/dropping odd students all day long. Hundreds of stops on each spot a day. The concrete seems to hold up alot better than the asphalt. The asphalt seems to shift and crack and then holes form and holds water. The concrete may have afew cracks but is still there.
all 3 estimates that I have received said they were going to use a #2 base. Does that sound right?
I'm leaning toward the concrete now that you guys mention the cost of ownership. I can't see concrete getting old or being re-surfaced. Either way, I feel a lot more prepared to go to the contractors (or the paper) with all the info you guys have given.....thanks.
Not sure. Each state uses a different classification. You could even go with a "Class R" which has recycled concrete in it. Find out from the city you live in what they use on thier road section just below the blacktop. For example, we use a Class 5 crushed. That will most likely be the best aggregate for you to use for your base. They most likely have a standard detail for driveways as well which could be a guide for you.
by the way...jskufan...sorry about your jayhawks. I am a HUGE Kentucky Wildcat fan...you can imagine the dissapointment.
I work with a "Long time" Kentucky Wildcats fan and mainly a lot of Missouri Tiger fans so I'm always pretty much in the minority. Oh well, there's always next year. I also wanted to comment on that "freeze factor" from earlier in the thread. I live in the Midwest and we get both extremes here. I see both materials used extensively in residential as well as commercial applications. I think that ice is the culprit for deteriorating either concrete or asphalt when either one cracks or splits and the water is allowed to go into the cracks and freeze. When it freezes, it expands and breaks them apart. This is an issue people in warm climates don't have to deal with. That said, a proper installation of either material should yield many years of service.
In Texas we have no problem with our ~25 year old concrete driveway. It's really thick, but then again it's only had snow on it maybe 4 times (ice a whole lot more though). Even the wood spacers are still looking great.
The air entraining agent & the expansion strip is what aids the concrete in helping to overcome the effects of the warming & chilling (expansion& contraction)
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