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The gas cap vent could be plugged up. I had a ford truck that had the same symptoms. It would run fine, the sputter and die and would not restart untill it had set for a couple of hours. I changed the fuel cap out with a known good one and my problem was cured. If the vent is plugged it will draw a vacum after running for awhile and keep the fuel from being delivered. after setting awhile the vacum leaks off and it will run fine till it draws the vacum again.It may or may not help you but it is a cheap fix if that is what happens to be wrong with it.
Last edited by powderburn2; May 4, 2004 at 05:31 PM.
Reason: misspelling
Ok, thanks for the explanation - I honestly just didn't see any connection. So a vacuum builds in the fuel tank which prevents the in-tank pump from being able to deliver fuel... I guess it kinda makes sense.
So to test this, when it stalls and won't re-start I'd remove my fuel cap slowly. Presumably, I'll hear the vacuum be released as the cap comes off, then I should be able to crank it for a little while and have it start back up (the same as if I actually ran out of gas)...
I'm going to be peeved off if this is the fix. I've been chasing this problem for 2 years. It's always been very intermittent, then all of a sudden in the last couple of months it's become much more regular... I'll give it a shot... The problem now is getting it to re-create the stall/no-start. I try to get it to die every day when I get home from work and it never does it when I want to...
Solution has been found for my problem, which was very like this one. The fix was the ECT Sensor and the Air charge temp sensor. I think the ECT alone would have done it, but I bought both from the same crappy supplier when the problem started, so I bought both as new Motorcraft parts. Problem solved. Economy is good again, and truck starts right up every time.
wdj, you said that after you replaced the CTS it seemed to fix the problem for a while. when you installed it did u have the battery disconected? if you didnt you may have ruined the sensor and it didnt go bad right away. also you said that the sensor only cost you $18, in my opinoin you get what you pay for with sensors, i would buy a motorcraft or other high quality sensor rather than the cheapes.
good luck, vochy
Anyway, that wasn't my problem.. I FINALLY got this figured out. It died on me saturday and I got it towed home where I could properly diagnose the problem..
I checked for fuel pressure at the rail. None. I checked downstream of the filter. None. I checked downstream of the boost pump. None. I checked downstream of the tank selector valve. None. I checked upstream of the selector valve, ah! Pressure!
Diagnosis: Bad tank selector valve.
My front tank is junk, so I just use the rear. No need to spend $100 on a new valve, I'm just going to take it out & bypass it. I'm going to run a new fuel line from the rear tank all the way to the boost pump and also a return line from the regulator back to the tank... New hose is probably a good idea anyway..
One final follow-up for anyone who might have the same problem that I did...
I removed the selector valve and put in fuel lines to bypass it. I've been driving the truck everywhere for about 3 weeks now and it hasn't died on me once...
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