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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Problem with Draglink

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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 07:31 PM
  #1  
sancochojoe's Avatar
sancochojoe
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Problem with Draglink

Anyone have problems unscrewing the end piece on the drag link.
Is there a tool for that, or whats been an easy method for most.
Mine is holding on pretty tight. Can't seem to unscrew it.?

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 10:30 PM
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Sears sells drag link sockets. There are several sizes to choose from.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 07:48 AM
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make sure the cotter pin is out if it has one,and try spraying it with some p.b blaster,this is some good stuff.hope this help's/scott.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 07:52 AM
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Great, I'll stop by Sears after work and i'll spray some more p.b blaster.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 12:16 PM
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I used a lug wrench on mine. The ones with the bladed end you can get a little more torque with this than a screw driver.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 05:28 PM
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I tried all the normal "tools" that could be made to work and finally resorted to a hammer operated impact tool. LOTS of blaster first and then went for a therapy session with the impact tool and a big hammer. Once it broke loose it came right out. Wish I'd thought of the lug wrench trick - good idea. Grease in the thing was the consistency of concrete...pittman arm ball was more oval than round...ditto the steering arm on the spindle. I'm hopeful that this (along with kingpins - they're bad too) is most of the reason for the "drunken monkey" steering syndrome - actually quit driving it until I could address this issue - hope this takes care of it as I miss driving it in all it's ugly multi-colored glory!
 
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 05:37 PM
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While we are on the topic could someone address this draglink question? Does a wise man buy a whole new piece or does wisdom shine on the man who buys the kit for the ends? himmelberg
 
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 09:47 PM
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I can't necessarily respond as a "wise" man but after cleaning and inspecting the drag link on my 51 I couldn't find anything wrong with it despite the concrete consistency of the grease that was in it. I suspect it hadn't been driven much the last couple of years before I got it. At any rate I opted to buy the kit(s) for the ends. I've not got it back together yet though so if I've made an error someone please let me know!
 
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Old Mar 31, 2004 | 05:30 PM
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I used a cold steel chisel and put vise grips 90 degrees off the chisel shaft and pushed and turned at the same time. My Canadian ( salt rusted ) '53 drag link came apart pretty well. I ordered a complete repair kit ( both ends c/w seals ) from Joblot $ 19.95 They have pitman arms $ 55.00 and replacement ball studs $ 8.95 King pins at joblot are $26.95 complete.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2004 | 02:04 PM
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This is my first reply in this esteemed forum. I just replaced the end kits and used the existing drag link. The drag link is original and appeared in good shape.
I also used a cold chisel to remove the end stop in the same fashion as Green53, but I put it back using the cold chisel & a 6-point socket to drive in with ease with a rachet drive. I drove it until stopped, then backed off a half-turn.

f-perf
 
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Old Apr 2, 2004 | 08:14 AM
  #11  
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same here,i just re placed my tie rod end's.every thing else was good,got my part's from napa.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2004 | 12:27 PM
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Drag link

Originally Posted by himmelberg
While we are on the topic could someone address this draglink question? Does a wise man buy a whole new piece or does wisdom shine on the man who buys the kit for the ends? himmelberg
I used the rebuild kit. As long as the link is not bent or damaged you should be able to rebuild it. Mine had a broken spring and someone had assjusted it to take up some of the play. The ball on the pitman arm was half gone so I had to replace it. Works great now. I will be removing the pitman arm to install a Toyota power steering box if anyone needs a good slightly used one.
 
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