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I'm putting Hooker headers, which came with bolts and gaskets, on my 2wd 67 F-100 390ci, besides soaking the bolts is there anything I should know beforehand that will save me time and trouble while putting them in.
not really just be patient with header installion. also theres this stuff called tite seal i dont know where you can get it but the medium duty grade of it works great for exhaust leaks. it looks like grey puddy and comes in a big can i would conservitively coat you header gasket with this stuff it will guanette leak free. one time i lost my flat round gasket thing that goes on the heat riser and i just coated the surfaces with that tite seal and theres no leaks whatsover. how much did your hookers cost?
I got the Competition headers for $170 from jegs, I could'nt afford the super comps they were like $320 or something like that. Do you think they would have that sealer at a local parts store or something similar to it? Thanks.
yeah its a really old can so i cant remeber where i got it can try home depot and lowes also try some automtive specialty places and maybe plumbing places because its also for plumbing stuff i think.. how are the hookers diffrent from the cheaper flowtechs and dynomax's? on the side of the can it says manufuctured for radiator specitaly company dont know what it means but thought it might help, its not manufucruted by any larger company its one company i guess.
Last edited by FERacing66; Mar 29, 2004 at 04:26 PM.
To tell you the truth I'm not sure how different they are, I have friends tell me that they sound the best interior and exterior wise and perform the best as well, so I kinda just went with their word on it. I could have bought some hedman headers for a lot cheaper like a $100 dollars. I know a lot of rice burners use them, but I've never seen or heard them on a 8 or 6cyl that I know of.
No matter how it looks, you have to jack up the engine to get the headers in. I thought I was going to be trick and get them in from the top - all that got me was aggrivation and a deformed oil pan. (Don't ask).
As well, you may need to remove one of the motor towers, depending on how much clearance you have the jack up the engine.
Finally, you might have to loosen/remove the starter and then install the starter while you install the passenger header...I don't quite remember.
Be patient and realize it's worth it in the end. : ) I was running those very headers and I was pleased with the feel, sound, and overall fit.
they way i see it headers are headers there just some long tubes welded together so ill proably go with flowtech. a lot guys on FTE use flotechs with no trouble.
I should know what that means. I don't. ...Help me? *laugh*
-Patrick
some of the primaries are of a 2-peice design, and the flange is broken up accordingly. So, some of the primaries slip fit into thier other 'half'.
I know some of the SuperComps are this way, and being able to set bits and pieces of the header in individually makes install a breeze.
There is a lot more to headers than a few tubes... A well designed header will most definatly make more power than a header that is thrown together for a hundred bux. Now, wether 8-10hp is worth the extra $ on a truck motor is up to you. On my car, every hp is golden, my truck on the other hand will get whatever fits best and is priced most competitive. Likely will be FlowTechs.
If I remember right, my dynomax headers were easy on the drivers side. Just installed the from the bottom side of the engine. I think I still had to jack the engine up a little for the pass. side.
Thanks for the help guys, got em in and running, took about 6hrs. But its worth it. Drivers side slipped in just fine but the passenger side was an ordeal in itself. I'm gonna hate it when I have to replace the starter, but I did put a heat shield around the starter to give it a little bit of a longer life.
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