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I have an 88 f-150 that used to be a 5 speed but have swaped in a C-6. The truck has been setting for about a year now and when I go to start it, it only cranks but doesn't fire. I can open the throttle body and spray starting fluid in it and get it to start but then I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal and keep the rpms at 2000 like it was a carburerated truck with no choke for about a minute. After a minute or so I can take my foot off the gas and it will keep running. If I try to blip the throttle real quick when the engine is still cold it stalls the truck but then I can turn the key and it will start right up. If I let the truck run for about 5-10 minutes, I can blip the throttle and it doesn't hesitate or stall at all. I've driven the truck up and down the road several times after its warmed up and it runs great, its just a pain to get started and keep running for the first few minutes until everything gets warmed up. Is there a sensor somewhere that is causing me all this trouble? I've read through a Haynes manual and I can't find anything in it that indicates what my problem might be.
Someone have an identical problem like yours. They have narrowed it down to the EGR as one of the problem. If they disconnect the EGR vacuum hose and plug it and start it cold then it runs like a champ. Engine starts fine with or without the EGR vacuum hose connected as long as the engine is already warmed up. Engine has problem starting cold when the EGR vacuum hose is connected.
Could be a stucked open EGR and EGR valve works fine (ie springs retuns back to normal or valves return to normal) when the insides are warm due to the engine exhaust.
I'll have to check and see if plugging the EGR valve will work. I looked at it earlier today and the diaphragm moved freely but it looked like it might have some kind of rubber seal in it that might be coming out. I'm not quite sure what one is supposed to look like when you move it manually. I was thinking part of my problem might be the air bypass valve located on the throttle body, but thats just a guess???
Are there any other ways to check the operation of the EGR valve other then pushing on it with a screw driver or your fingers?