bleeding master cylinder
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bleeding master cylinder
Due to advice from this forum, I have replaced the old single reservoir m/c on my '64 F100 with a dual cylinder from a '68 mustang. It bolted right up with no mods. My question has to do with bleeding. I bench bled the cylinder until I stopped seeing bubbles and the piston got hard to push, then I installed it in the truck. I would think that with the plugs installed, the pedal should get fairly hard but this has not happened. I plan over the weekend to get some help to push the pedal while I watch to see if fluid comes out. I also replaced all of the brake lines, does the wheel cylinder port have to be closed after each stroke of the pedal or can it be left open during pedal return?
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Littleton, CO
Wheel cylinder ports need to be closed before pressure is released from the pedal, unless you have one of those fancy one-man-bleed deals, then there is constant fluid on the open line and it will push/pull till it's bled.
--Mike
--Mike
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Thanks, does anyone out there know of any chain stores that might rent one of those one man bleeders. Harbor freight shows one in their catalog for $3.99, but I can't imagine it working very well. Is it just going to take me a long long time to bleed all that air out?
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Monroe, LA
My experience with bleeding the brakes after a similar master cylinder exchange was that you have to really bleed the stuffing out of the system. Flush lots of brake fluid through each wheel cylinder. It is definitely a 2 person job. My suction brake bleeder would not do it. The reply on closing the bleed on the wheel cylinder while the brake pedal is still all the way down to the floor is correct. If you let it come back up before closing the wheel cylinder bleed valve, it will suck air back into the line.
After good brake adjustments and adequate bleeding gave me a full pedal that doesn't have to be pushed nearly as hard as the original one did. Since I don't have to push as hard, I'm not concerned as to how "hard" the brake pedal is. Jamming it real hard until it becomes "hard" would cause my 64 F100 to stop too quickly, and I'd probably get rear-ended.
Good luck. When you get through, you'll really like the difference.
After good brake adjustments and adequate bleeding gave me a full pedal that doesn't have to be pushed nearly as hard as the original one did. Since I don't have to push as hard, I'm not concerned as to how "hard" the brake pedal is. Jamming it real hard until it becomes "hard" would cause my 64 F100 to stop too quickly, and I'd probably get rear-ended.
Good luck. When you get through, you'll really like the difference.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Hesperia CA
I made my own one man bleeder with a glass jar and some tubing to slip over the bleeder. Just drill a hole in the lid big enough to insert the tube and make sure the end of the tube is under brake fluid so it can't suck air back up the line. I also had to drill a small vent hole becuase I fit the tubing too tight. Then make sure and start at the wheel cylinder that's farthest away from the master and work your way closer wheel by wheel.
Another thing is you'll need to watch the level in the master. Take about 10 pumps and re-fill as necessary or you'll pump more air in.
Good Luck.
Another thing is you'll need to watch the level in the master. Take about 10 pumps and re-fill as necessary or you'll pump more air in.
Good Luck.
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Hey, I bet I've got a jar around here. Thanks for the advice. My son is back in town so I may have some help now if I can pin him down.
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Brett Foote
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From: Monroe, LA
jnsprigg, a few days ago, in an earlier reply to this thread, I said,
"After good brake adjustments and adequate bleeding gave me a full pedal that doesn't have to be pushed nearly as hard as the original one did. Since I don't have to push as hard, I'm not concerned as to how "hard" the brake pedal is. Jamming it real hard until it becomes "hard" would cause my 64 F100 to stop too quickly, and I'd probably get rear-ended."
This is the answer to your last post to the thread.
Norwood Shelton
Monroe, LA
"After good brake adjustments and adequate bleeding gave me a full pedal that doesn't have to be pushed nearly as hard as the original one did. Since I don't have to push as hard, I'm not concerned as to how "hard" the brake pedal is. Jamming it real hard until it becomes "hard" would cause my 64 F100 to stop too quickly, and I'd probably get rear-ended."
This is the answer to your last post to the thread.
Norwood Shelton
Monroe, LA
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Connecticut
You need to plumb it into the system and bleed the complete truck starting with the right rear, left rear, right front then left front. You can't go by just the pedal connected. Everything must be in place and all connected and bled. Do this and see and let us know where you stand.
Barry
Barry
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Thanks for all the help. I'm here to report success over the weekend. As it turned out all it took was having a helper so that I had one underneath and one on the brake pedal and watching the fluid level. Man it doesn't take long to empty those little reservoirs! But we got it all bled and took it for a little drive.