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I have a 94 Ford Ranger. Recently it started running rough, lackes power and the RPMS showed 400 at idle. I have two codes 335 and 224. I have replaced plugs and wires and put on a new timing belt. This is the 2.3L twin coils system. I had a mech check it out, but he found nothing wrong. The odd thing is when I drive around 5 miles on a hot day not cold what ever is locked up in some way will suddenly work and the RPMS go up to 800 like they should be. The truck has great power and is smooth at idle. But it dosent fix its self all the time. It usually shows 400 RPMs at idle and runs rough. I will be replacing the DPFE sensor. I have 100,000 mile on this truck. The alternator is also acting up but is usually charging. If I hit the bright lights the voltage drops and then goes back up. Could this be a factor? Has anyone ever seen this kind of problem?
i am having the same problem with my truck it is a 91 ranger 2.3 and it works when ever it wants to work if i park on a down hill slope it will work till I turn the truck off and when i start it back up it wont work i dont know what it is i think is has to do with some kind of wiring problem not a good connection i dont know though if u find out any thing please let me know
Below is a list of pinpoint tests for code 224 and the 335 is an EGR code. If you would like the pinpoint tests just let me know, I already have the 335 done and will do the 224 for you.
² JC1: CHECK CMP SENSOR AT CAMSHAFT SENSOR
² JC2: CHECK CMP TO PCM CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
² JC3: CHECK CID SENSOR AT CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
² JC4: CHECK CAMSHAFT SENSOR CMP PWR
² JC5: CHECK CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR IGNITION GROUND
Thanks for the input. I will do the test. I did some of my own tonight at work so I used what I could. The truck was running correctly at this time only the EGR 335 code was present. The truck was at 850 rpms and running great. So I probed the wires to the cam and crank shaft sensors just before the They go into the ICM. On the crank shaft wire (DB) I had 850 rpms on the cam shaft wire (GY) I had 400 rpms. I was actually hoping late on in the night it would run bad again so I could retest, but it stay running great. I thought you might have more input on this. As for the egr I did order a new sensor.
My truck started doing this a while ago (the RPM would drop and truck would run rough and then it would go back to normal after a while) and I searched and searched for the problem with no luck. It turned out to be the EDIS module that was bad.
You should run the pinpoint tests to determine the exact cuase of the problem, thats really the only way to determine whats wrong. Like I said just let me know if you need a copy of them.
I have a very similar problem on my 91 w/3.0/5spd...tach jumps up by 1000rpm when it feels like it, hit a bump, sometimes it comes down to normal, sometimes not....this happens wherever...freeway or around town. The actual engine speed stays same, tach just jumpy....
I have also had another weird cold start problem...If I go to take off after letting it run enough for fast idle to kick down and leave and if I stall it, the sucker WONT restart 9 times out of ten....i tried sitting there letting comp. reset if needed and try again...I have waited as much as 5-10 minutes with it still not restarting.
Last couple times its done this, I mat the sucker and lay on the starter and it usually restarts after much whining from starter(ya, i know that bad for it) Any clues as to what this sucker needs?
Is there a parts store or something that can plug in and tell me about what codes it sends back?
Also, if computer gets wet/damp, could that cause similar problems?
I realize the brain is behind RH kickpanel.....its got 231K and still chugging along.....any help is greatly appreciated