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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
View Poll Results: 302 or 351 police
yes
2
40.00%
no
0
0%
either or
2
40.00%
nither
1
20.00%
Voters: 5. You may not vote on this poll

electrical problems

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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 08:28 PM
  #1  
pick-up MANN's Avatar
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Question electrical problems

I have a 94 F-150 4x4 the headlights go out when they get hot and the back of the switch is burnt? what could be the problem
 
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 09:29 PM
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maybe its groudning out somewhere. I would suggest maybe inspecting the wires and maybe replacing the sockets.

when you say the back of the switch is burnt you mean the light switch it self or the plug on the back of the bulb?

Am i the only one who didn't understand the poll?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 10:17 PM
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OUr f-350 at work did the same thing, replaced the switch and it is fine, and no your not the only one who didnt get the pole? WTF?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 03:32 AM
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My old man had a F150 that did the same, new switch fixed it.

As for the poll, not sure what the '302 or 351 police' title is all about. I'd go for the 351.
 

Last edited by laka; Mar 17, 2004 at 03:34 AM.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 11:27 PM
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When my light switch went bad it did it on brights. The lights would go out while driving. Try that sometime on a country road. Replace switch.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 02:06 AM
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had that happen on mine, it was the multi function switch assembly on the steering column.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 06:17 AM
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The biggest problem here is the undersized wiring in the head light circuit and a poorly designed headlight switch.

There is a tech article called Whiter Whites, Brighter Brights where the headlights are re-wired in the engine compartment to relieve the headlight switch of some amperage by wiring relays to the headlight switch and then the actual headlights to the other side (battery side) of the relays.

This does two things. Reduces the ampere load on the headlight switch to a level the switch can handle, and gives FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to the headlights making them brighter. The relays will fit on the side wall aft of the battery and all the associated wiring will tuck in with the wire loom across the front.

Use 12Ga wire from the Relays to the lamps.

My lights are 20-25% brighter now, (10.5v vs 13.5v), and my headlight switch is cool to the touch when on for a while. My dash used to get hot around the switch. Not now.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 12:10 PM
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Hey Larry, I just did the upgrade you referred to, what a difference in light output. Simple job and great results. I would highly recommend this upgrade to anyone. Check it out in my gallery.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 05:33 PM
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im thinking about doing that, where did you get those nice connectors for the headlights?
and to they make them to plug into the factory headlight socket, im not a big fan of butchering a trucks wireing harness.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 09:17 PM
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Larry, I assume that the "Whiter Whites" will work with later model trucks as you've already done it to your "94. Just curious, as the header in the tech article says for '60's and "70's Ford trucks. Did you have to do anything different from the article?
Regards, Rick
 
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 09:42 PM
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My truck is a 94 and I dident have to do anything different except for the fact that I used the 12 g wire in the whole upgrade, even the ground wire which should be the same size as your power wire.

The connectors are made by CalTerm, I picked them up at a local auto parts store. By using these connectors, I was able to tape back the drivers side factory connector, untouched. On the passenger side, with the relays mounted in the location I chose all I had to do was cut the red and green wire off the factory connector and put female spade style terminals onto the ends of the wires and then plug them right into the relays without any other changes. I then tied back the factory connector on the drivers side with the black wire still attached to the connector. If you ever wanted to return the truck to the origianal configuration, you would only have to solder the two wires back onto the passenger side connector and plug them back in, thats it!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 11:36 AM
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so i have silverstar bulbs now, do you think they would be any brighter than they are currently? and i may do this anyways because ive been having problems with my dimmer switch. i think the problems fixed but i cant take chances.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 08:27 PM
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I went to the local parts store and they sell replacement headlight sockets. That means you can just protect the stock socket from the elements and connect wires to the replacement and never worry about having to cut factory wires. They were only $5 apiece. I'm going to install them this week-end. I'll have pictures when I do
 
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 12:48 AM
  #14  
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tylus, thats the way I did it, I liked the sounds of doing it that way too.

ATC, You should still get 20-25% brighter lights, even with the silverstar bulbs. Doing the Whiter Whites increases the voltage to the bulb socket.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 01:15 AM
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guess I should have looked at your pics...I like that switch setup
 
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