radiator relocation?
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
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radiator relocation?
I am building up a 78 f 250 and we are planning on relocting the radiator behind the cab with an electric fan.
Have any of you ever done this? What is involved other than plumping? Does it require an auxilary water pump to go the distance?
Truck is a regular cab and has a 400.
Thanks
Have any of you ever done this? What is involved other than plumping? Does it require an auxilary water pump to go the distance?
Truck is a regular cab and has a 400.
Thanks
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 49
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a number of reasons the first was an initial plan to swap steering boxs and move it forward to get a better geometry. i think for now I am doing a cross overwith the stock box and flipping the tie rod. Also I am going to flush mount a winch in the grill and trim up the front to get the best approach angle. The winch will be where the rad is.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
you need to talk to Pro b/c he has done this. all i can think of is the plumbing and even with an electric fan i believe Pro said he was still having overheating problems so try to put it up in the air a lil so that air can flow all around it!
i wish i had the ***** to put mine in the bed!
-Jason-
i wish i had the ***** to put mine in the bed!
-Jason-
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 2,759
Likes: 2
From: Auburn,Al
check out pro's gallery for a pic of his. it snot a good idea if you still drive the truck on the road much, because at speed the radiator missees most of the air cuse the cab pushes it over. if this truck is mostly off highway then get some good elec fans and ride. i think pro used copper pipe of sumthin. alot of people get exhaust shops to run aluminized exahsut tubing
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
imo, many problems with it in the bed is because it is mounted too close to the front, without a shroud (front and back), and too close to the floor. With electric fans, a shroud on the fan(s) side, and two feet of space in front of the radiator and two feet behind, I think it would be good to go. I would use pullers, not pushers.
You can buy a 2" pipe bender for $80 that will be good enough to put mild bends in stainless steel exhaust tubing. Put rubber insulation at least 1 inch around the tube where it enters the bed because off-road that bed will flex alot.
You can buy a 2" pipe bender for $80 that will be good enough to put mild bends in stainless steel exhaust tubing. Put rubber insulation at least 1 inch around the tube where it enters the bed because off-road that bed will flex alot.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
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FYI It is not going to be in the stock bed. That will be off permanantly this weekend. The rear is going to be a custom bent tube flat bed. I don't think i will be able to give up 4 feet of the bed though. I will have to measure up the final size for the bed and see how it would lay out. I was also thinking about using a pusher and a puller both flex-a-lite double fans. It will not be on the road alot but will need to be able to be streetable on occasion.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
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From: Southwestern Michigan
you could do a search in here, proeliator has covered this subject extensively. Make sure to look farther back than 30 days when doing your search.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: House Springs, MO
The radiator's in the back of my Bronco, and it never gets above 180. On my othe project, the radiator is also in the back. The factory water pump is all I use, and it does the job very well. The only problem I had was priming the pump, but that was pretty easy once I knew what to do. I installed an auxilary electric water pump in my new project with a bypass, so that I could use the electric pump to prime the system, then once the mechanical water pump is doing it's job, I can shut the electric pump off. The most important thing to do is reduce the coolant line size down to 3/4 back to radiator, then expand it back up to 1 1/2 to go into the radiator, then reduce it again from the radiator back up to the block. I can take pix of my setup if you'd like.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,162
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From: House Springs, MO
Yup. 3/4 (inside diameter) heater hose the whole 12 feet, both to and from the radiator. My neighbor tried running 1 1/2 " hose when he had his radiator mounted in the bed, but his motor kept overheating. The same reduced diameter **** increases the speed that the hot water gets back to the radiator to get cooled, and vice versa, whereas the same size HH all the way to the front and back moves at a slower rate. I think...but yea, either 1" of 3/4". 3/4" was cheaper, so I went with that and haven't had any problems.