Borla header install
Start by removing the air filter housing. This will give you great access to the driver's side manifold and EGR tube. Remove the passenger side tire and wheel well liner. It is kinda tricky to remove but it will come out. Ford uses several plastic rivets which will prolly get ruined on removal so you may need to buy new ones. I also removed the vacuum canister which sits on the liner just for more room. You really don't need to remove the driver's side wheel liner. Next, disconect the O2 sensors. This is kinda a pain. They are up high on the back of the block. Push down on the tab while you pull. Took a while to figure that out! Then remove the stock crossover pipe. You'll need to remove the O2 sensors at some point. I wasn't able to get one of mine out so be careful. The manifolds are next. If you have EGR then disconnect the tube from the manifold by loosening the top nut on the tube. My manifold nuts were tight as heck, the ones located in hard to reach areas were a pain. Some of the nuts came off while some stayed and the stud came out. Either way, you'll have to remove all the studs. They are easy. You'll need to remove the other part of the EGR fitting from the driver's manifold. Unbolt the dip stick and remove it from the engine. Make sure there is an O ring on the end. Put a little anti-seize on the EGR fitting and on all the header bolts. Make sure the exhaust ports are clean and install the EGR fitting onto the Borla header. Install the O2 sensors into the headers in the original locations. (right bank, and left bank) Use some anti seize here too. Begin installing the headers. Once the driver's side is done, reinstall the dip stick tube. You may need to loosen the EGR tube at the engine to get it to line up. Manuver the new crossover pipe into place and bolt it in. Reassemble the fender and air cleaner. The best tools for the header bolts are a 7/16 wrench and a 7/16 socket on a little 1/4 inch ratchet. Start to finish, including lunch and a trip to get another O2 sensor, took 8 hours. You could prolly do it in 6.
I was impressed with the sound the headers make. It's a nice deep sound with a slight rumble. A lot different than the quietness of the stock system. I've driven them for a week now. The truck does seem to pull harder now on acceleration, at least it sounds like it does. Gas mileage has dropped by 1/2 gallon or so. I'm guessing it's a heavy right foot and the computer is still adjusting. I'd give the fit and finish an A, installation a C, performance a B, fuel economy a C(for now) and an A for the added "cool" factor. The only problems I had was the stuck O2 sensor and the power steering hose was way to close to the header and needed moved. Try the link below for pics.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=720962&a=11913717
first would like to say thanks for posting your experience with the install, it helps to know what im in for when uncle sam gives me my share too, ha ha :-). Anyway, i have so many questions im just going to number em.
1. do u still have the stock pipes the rest of the way back?
2. did u look at the banks system also or any other?
3. how did u come to choose the borla headers?
4. would u recommend buy new o2 sensors just to have on hand when doing the swap?
5. are the bolt locks recommended or required?
6. can u heat wrap the headers before installation
thanks again.
Billy
1. Only thing stock now is the cat and I have a "test pipe" for that too if I feel the need for experimentation.
I tried it for a while before the headers and it was way to loud. I have had a Borla single 3" cat-back for 2 yrs now.2. Banks was my first choice. Banks was the first company to make headers for the V10 until Borla caught up. When Banks first introduced the Powerpack I had a heck of a time getting any info from them on it. They kept sending me PSD info... Banks likes to package their product and for $1500 it seemed to high for me.
3. Right now, there are 4 companys making V10 headers. Banks, Borla, Gibson and JBA. The latter two are manifold replacement only, in other words they use the stock "Y" pipe. I've always thought that the "Y" pipe was rather goofy so I wanted to replace that as well. Borla seemed to be the logical step for what I wanted and cost.
4. I would hold off on the O2 sensors unless you needed one. At $60 a pop it's not practical to spend that kinda money unless you needed to. Some electrical parts aren't returnable so watch out for that.
5. I was surprised the locking bolts came with the kit. I chose for the moment not to use the locks. It had been a long day and I really didn't feel like fumbling with the C-clips and such. I did start the truck and let them get hot then cool before reassembeling the fender skirts. I then tightened them up again. A few days later I checked the bolts again and they were kinda loose, maybe a 1/8th turn to tight. You can access the drivers side with the air filter removed and from underneith. You can struggle and get all but 2 on the passenger side. If you remove the fender skirt you can get all of them easily. I will prolly check them again this weekend to see how they are doing. If they are drasticly loose then I will go with the locks.
6. I suppose you could wrap them if you wanted. I'd check with the company first. You could void your warranty. You could also get them coated.







