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Today, after 40+ years of working on automobile air conditioning units, I took the online exam for epa certification. (I still missed one question, you can miss up to 4). It is a 25 question exam and the cost is $19.95 via credit card. You can view the epa manual during the exam so it is not hard. Anyone interested go to www.epatest.com for the information.
you don't have to be certified to put it in your car, just to handle and use it in shops etc... and to use and handle quantities of 30+ pounds or something like that
Hey Jermafenser, my 65 Mustang and my 66 Ranger will both blow a consistant 29 degree F with R-134on a hot day. I have several 4WD John Deere farm tractors that will keep you cool on a 100 degree day. They have been retrofitted with R-134 and they keep you cooler than R-12. So.. go ahead and swich it over. You won't be disapointed.
maybe its different in your locale, but around here you only have to be certified to purchase the larger quantities. we sell small like 1 quart and 1 gallon containers of R134 over the counter. We deliver larger 30 pound containers to the garages, who I'd imagine are certified.
>maybe its different in your locale, but around here you only
>have to be certified to purchase the larger quantities. we
>sell small like 1 quart and 1 gallon containers of R134 over
>the counter. We deliver larger 30 pound containers to the
>garages, who I'd imagine are certified.
You don't have to be certified to buy the 134.
And like stated above you have to be certified to buy R12.
Right now, there is no restriction on the sale of HFC-134A, so anyone can buy it. However, the EPA is planning to issue a proposed rule under section 608 of the Clean Air Act that will include a proposal to restrict the sale of HFC-134A so that only technicians certified under sections 608 and 609 may purchase it. Section 608 is for stationary air conditioning units both residential, commercial and industrial. Section 609 certification is for motor vehicle air conditioning systems.
Lucky you. My 2001 SD crew cab will only blow 47 degrees at best on a day when it is in the 70's outside. This even after the dealer supposedly fixed it last fall. If it is above 85, forget much cooling at all. Dealer tells me this is the best these trucks will do. The temperature in the cab never goes below 80 on a hot day, 70 -75 on a cooler (75 - 80 outside) day. Actually this prompts me to think of posting this in the SD section to see if anyone else can tell me what their ac blows to see if my dealer is just blowing hot air himself.
>Hey Jermafenser, my 65 Mustang and my 66 Ranger will both
>blow a consistant 29 degree F with R-134on a hot day. I
>have several 4WD John Deere farm tractors that will keep
>you cool on a 100 degree day. They have been retrofitted
>with R-134 and they keep you cooler than R-12. So.. go
>ahead and swich it over. You won't be disapointed.
My 88 F-150 blows air out of the diffusers at around 44 degrees even with an outside temperature around 90 degrees. I am not using R-12 or R-134. I retrofitted it myself and have a tight system with no leaks and use R-406A (Autofrost). I have used it for almost two years now without any problems. I live in Norfolk, VA, and it does get hot here!
I have retrofitted my 91 explorer to use autofrost (R406) also. It is by far the most efficient refrigerant that is approved by the EPA. for mobile use.
For convenience, I have also retrofitted some to R134 (I have 5 vehicles).
You can go to the autofrost web site and download a temperature-pressure chart of the temperatures at various pressures for each refrigerant.
I can get my explorer vent air down to 42 degrees in summer. I helped a friend retrofit his older mustang to it, and during the early spring, it was blowing air at 34 degrees.
Unfortunately, R406 also requires a certificate, even though it is 85% more environmentally friendly than R12. I don't know why anyone would use R12. R406 works better than R12 and is a drop_in replacement, and costs less. It should not be mixed, but no need to flush during conversion. It does however tend to leak much worse than R12, so the newer type barrier hoses are necessary.
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