pop goes the rivets
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pop goes the rivets
Ive heard mixed opinions on air powered pop rivet guns.
hand cranking those lil things in is getting old... any opinions on what to loook for and watch out for in a new air powered pop riveter?
Any where to buy em except ebay? I am having a bugger of a time even locating one for sale in a store.
THANKZ! you guys help me a lot
hand cranking those lil things in is getting old... any opinions on what to loook for and watch out for in a new air powered pop riveter?
Any where to buy em except ebay? I am having a bugger of a time even locating one for sale in a store.
THANKZ! you guys help me a lot
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
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From: East Central Florida
WHoa Wait A minute Mouse!
2ndMouse,
Pop rivets are not a good Idea for a few reasons. The 1st one is they have no real structural value, and niether of the pieces they join together have any structural value (in real terms) either.
2nd, they introduce 2 more kinds of metal into an area most likely prone to rust anyway. If you let your mind wander back to High School, you might recollect that business about bi & tri metals being a component of a wet cell batt, & moisture that is basic or acidic being an electrolyte. Electrolytic action is encouraged or enhanced when these elements are combined.
FWIW, rusting is oxidization which is a result of electrolytic action. IOW, a galvinaometer hooked to a rusting area will detect generation of electrical current as a byproduct of ferrous metal decomposing from being oxidized. . . . OR
The aluminum rivet, steel rivet shank & body tin = 3(tri) metal. Atmosphere, dust, rain dew, pollen,salt & more combine to become electrolyte.
When combined, these generate rust faster than if they were 1 metal only, exposed to electrolytic action. . . .
Then there are finishing, and sealing, and stopping micro movement, and, and, and,.. . . . . . .see where this is headed?
That's why we weld panels together instead of pop riviteng. The theory there being, if you're putting out the Money, time effort et al the job should last atleast long enough to make it worthwhile.
FBp
Pop rivets are not a good Idea for a few reasons. The 1st one is they have no real structural value, and niether of the pieces they join together have any structural value (in real terms) either.
2nd, they introduce 2 more kinds of metal into an area most likely prone to rust anyway. If you let your mind wander back to High School, you might recollect that business about bi & tri metals being a component of a wet cell batt, & moisture that is basic or acidic being an electrolyte. Electrolytic action is encouraged or enhanced when these elements are combined.
FWIW, rusting is oxidization which is a result of electrolytic action. IOW, a galvinaometer hooked to a rusting area will detect generation of electrical current as a byproduct of ferrous metal decomposing from being oxidized. . . . OR
The aluminum rivet, steel rivet shank & body tin = 3(tri) metal. Atmosphere, dust, rain dew, pollen,salt & more combine to become electrolyte.
When combined, these generate rust faster than if they were 1 metal only, exposed to electrolytic action. . . .
Then there are finishing, and sealing, and stopping micro movement, and, and, and,.. . . . . . .see where this is headed?
That's why we weld panels together instead of pop riviteng. The theory there being, if you're putting out the Money, time effort et al the job should last atleast long enough to make it worthwhile.
FBp
Last edited by FORDBOYpete; Mar 10, 2004 at 05:22 AM.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 957
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From: Winchendon MA
I don't like pop rivets ither but you can get all steel ones and avoid the galvonic problems but you need the air tool as there a real pain to get to pop.
Check out Harbor Freight or Northern tool both have web sites. It will run you ~$50 Best tool I ever got for the race car.
44Dwarf
Check out Harbor Freight or Northern tool both have web sites. It will run you ~$50 Best tool I ever got for the race car.
44Dwarf
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well I did figure onnusing the steel rivets I dont like aluminum ones as they come loose.
You have a good point, its apart I might as well learn to weld right while I am at it.
I posted this before i took the air shears to the rust in the floor, I added some medical pictures to my gallery...
ended up much more than a pop rivet job... go peek!
it IS just body metal and I have patched up worse floors, at least this has solid metal all around the holes to weld to. I have to replace the cab mount in the passengers side too so I cant escape the welding..
as bad as it looks, I was suprised there is so much solid to tie into, it should be as good as used when I am done.
ALWAYS hammer the truck before you buy it.... rust hides very well.
I'm still optimistic about it, i have seen much much worse.
You have a good point, its apart I might as well learn to weld right while I am at it.
I posted this before i took the air shears to the rust in the floor, I added some medical pictures to my gallery...
ended up much more than a pop rivet job... go peek!
it IS just body metal and I have patched up worse floors, at least this has solid metal all around the holes to weld to. I have to replace the cab mount in the passengers side too so I cant escape the welding..
as bad as it looks, I was suprised there is so much solid to tie into, it should be as good as used when I am done.
ALWAYS hammer the truck before you buy it.... rust hides very well.
I'm still optimistic about it, i have seen much much worse.
CHeck Out Your "Rust Never Sleeps Thread, Mouse!!!!
