Fuel Or Electical ?
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From: new jersey
Fuel Or Electical ?
Need some input on a problem i am having with a 2000 250 v-10.under any type of a load condition i am losing power and gettine some sort of a miss, have swaped out the fuel filter,used fuel injector cleaner and dry gas. I also reset the computer.
there has been no engine check light so i am assuming there will be no codes? whats the best route for checking fuel injectors?
Or should i be thinking about having the tank dropped and checked?
any help you guys might have would be a great help
joe
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From: Central Valley
well joe i just bought a 2000 f 250 super duty v10 4x4 and im very happy with it. it has 90000 miles and runs great, but i just rebuilt a 7.3 litre diesel and we went through it and through it to find what was messed up with it, the injectors all check out but the massive loss of power was the stuid factory air box on the truck went faulty (later found out that it was a common thing in these trucks) and cylinders numbers 7 and 8 were dusted and had no compression, so u might want to have a compression test, it probably isnt that bad but hey its worth a shot to test it. id like to know how things went for future refrence with my truck
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From: new jersey
thanks caliguy
i had this thing over to a local mech who has a 99 v-10 as well.
he had the truck all day and could find nothing, fuel look good,there where no codes, could not find anything the matter.
and of course it ran fine for him....lol
the next day one the way to work there it was as usual just about 55mpg in overdrive it starts missing till i got up to 65-70mph then it smooths out. frustrating to say the least.
so i am just stuck driving it till something developes i guess.
thanks for you input
joe
i had this thing over to a local mech who has a 99 v-10 as well.
he had the truck all day and could find nothing, fuel look good,there where no codes, could not find anything the matter.
and of course it ran fine for him....lol
the next day one the way to work there it was as usual just about 55mpg in overdrive it starts missing till i got up to 65-70mph then it smooths out. frustrating to say the least.
so i am just stuck driving it till something developes i guess.
thanks for you input
joe
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
Crew V-10, your coils may be dropping out. Have them checked. When they go bad they'll cause a miss and never throw a code until they are almost dead.
When you said it did not show up for the tech, did he do a drivability test? Sometimes all it takes is hooking it up and going down the road.
When you said it did not show up for the tech, did he do a drivability test? Sometimes all it takes is hooking it up and going down the road.
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From: new jersey
thanks big orn,
i have been leary of those coils but have been unsure how to trouble shoot them.
i am thinking of investing in a code reader for a 100 bucks or so it might be worth it.
the tech did road test but it did not act of for him, and i doubt he was running it with the code reader while driving.
if i connect a code reader to it while driving,is it possible to have a code and no engine light?
I also started thinking i might be experiencing a transmision problem but i still feel this is a moter issue.
in one case it started running so poorly that at idle the rpm was jumping so i rulled out the trany.
after i let the truck sit for a bit it ran fine for as few hours.
is there anyway i can ohm out the coils?
thanks for you input
i have been leary of those coils but have been unsure how to trouble shoot them.
i am thinking of investing in a code reader for a 100 bucks or so it might be worth it.
the tech did road test but it did not act of for him, and i doubt he was running it with the code reader while driving.
if i connect a code reader to it while driving,is it possible to have a code and no engine light?
I also started thinking i might be experiencing a transmision problem but i still feel this is a moter issue.
in one case it started running so poorly that at idle the rpm was jumping so i rulled out the trany.
after i let the truck sit for a bit it ran fine for as few hours.
is there anyway i can ohm out the coils?
thanks for you input
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
You would need a WDS (Worldwide Diagnostic System) to do the drivability test and I think it would be too expensive to purchase one just to check your engine...unless you charged your friends and neighbors each time they had a problem. 
When the coils begin to act up, you may not always be able to see a fault in them with a meter. You would need to do the drivability test with the WDS plugged up to check the engine under normal and loaded conditions. Loaded conditions could simply be lugging the engine up a hill, but then sometimes it requires a load. In that case you may need to hookup to your trailer. It really all depends.
See if the tech did the diagnostics. If so, you may need to put your truck under load to make the problem show up next time. This could save you money and it usually costs $65 to $75 per hour and can only take half an hour to do it.
When the coils begin to act up, you may not always be able to see a fault in them with a meter. You would need to do the drivability test with the WDS plugged up to check the engine under normal and loaded conditions. Loaded conditions could simply be lugging the engine up a hill, but then sometimes it requires a load. In that case you may need to hookup to your trailer. It really all depends.
See if the tech did the diagnostics. If so, you may need to put your truck under load to make the problem show up next time. This could save you money and it usually costs $65 to $75 per hour and can only take half an hour to do it.
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From: new jersey
thanks ron,
i am having the truck inspected this weekend at ford out in PA if i make there...lol
i am going to ask them what they think, i know most dealers here in NJ charge about 97$ to run diag.
At this point i don't care so much about the money as i am agravated with this thing running so poorly.
i am having the truck inspected this weekend at ford out in PA if i make there...lol
i am going to ask them what they think, i know most dealers here in NJ charge about 97$ to run diag.
At this point i don't care so much about the money as i am agravated with this thing running so poorly.
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Have the dealer check mode 6 historical data with the WDS, any actual ignition misfires should show up there regardless of check engine light, this will pinpoint percentage of misfire and which cylinder is having the problem.
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From: Pennsylvania USA
Hey Crew. What did they charge you for all this? I'm having the same problem, and I have tried all I can. I bought a code reader, and I just get the p1000, and p0300 codes, neither of which tell me anything useful. I disconnected each coil one at a time and took a short ride. I was hoping that whichever disconnected coil didn't make a difference on the miss, was the bad coil. But every disconnected coil made a difference. Not sure what to do next, but my truck is running like crap. I haven't done anything with the injectors yet. That's for after this rain stops.
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From: NW Indiana
Well, let me just say you are not too bright are you ???? Why would you think that by disconnecting a coil and running it would help, let alone be good for the truck ???? Leave it to the pros to do YOUR work. Obviously when you disconnected the coil, it would not fire on that cyl. causing your fuel to drain back into the oil pan !!!! If you do this too much, you will blow the oil pan off the truck ( done that, not mine, customers ) Just be careful and think things thru next time.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by 8URHEMI
Well, let me just say you are not too bright are you ???? Why would you think that by disconnecting a coil and running it would help, let alone be good for the truck ???? Leave it to the pros to do YOUR work. Obviously when you disconnected the coil, it would not fire on that cyl. causing your fuel to drain back into the oil pan !!!! If you do this too much, you will blow the oil pan off the truck ( done that, not mine, customers ) Just be careful and think things thru next time.
jsmoluk, it depends on the dealer how they charge, but, despite 8URHEMI's surly reply, he is right. Take it to the dealer and let them hook it up.
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by Big Orn
What kind of reply is that? Is that the FTE way? Nope.
Now THAT'S funny...
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From: NW Indiana
Actually, the customer could not figure out why there vehicle would start. They brought it to us, and I found out that when they did their own tune up, they forgot to hook up the coil (gmc jimmy) so we did, and cranked it up, and off blew the oil pan, almost taking off my buddys head (not funny at all) Sorry for the rudeness, but if you are going to attempt to do more than you are capable, just ask someone or research it a little better thats all. I'm sure he will probably need new plugs now that they were not just disconnected for a short time, but actually driven on w/o spark. Again, I do know what I'm talking about, just get overworked sometimes when you hear somethings. I've been in the auto industry since I was 16 and own my own towing and repair shop, so I've seen and done it all. But again, sorry for being rude, I just cant stress the point enough that if you dont know, don't do !!!!!