My van sometimes cuts off while driving, when engine is warm, what could be wrong? The car is hard to start back up until the car cools down a little. I love the car and really want to fix it. I have put alot of work into it, and it is an awesome car, other than this. It has had full replacements of everything but something called a TFI sensor, and a part in the distributor and an ignition coil. I would like to pinpoint the problem without sinking alot of money into it. If someone could help me, I would surely appreciate it

 

I checked out the fuel pump...excellent working condition. I still have not checked the TFI module or the ignition module. I have also not checked the ignition coil, but, the car stars and runs wonderfully, and sometimes does not cut off at all, but, maybe make a slight skip for a split second, and do fine the rest of the trip. The other day is when I had the grandpappy of them all.....was stranded in the middle of the road until my car cooled down. Now, I run the heat when getting ready to start, and works like a charm. Summer is coming on soon, and I would rather not roast......again....the car does not overheat...the guages show perfectly. The car does have digital dash and power everything if that makes a difference. Thanks for your help

Jeremy P.

 

If the van kind of misfire then shut off, try look at the fuel pressure regulator. Raw fuel may be suck into the intake manifold.

 

Thanks dtong_ck.

I am not exactly sure where the regulator is....Could you tell me? I have pretty much checked out everything but that, and that is probably exactly what it is....thanks for letting me know......I will keep you posted on how it goes

 

It does act like a misfire. it may do it for a split second, then the car run great, and then sometimes it cuts completely off....and restarts just fine.......and stays running, and at it's worst, it turns off, and takes about 15 minutes to restart. I researched the fuel pressure regulator, and the one on my car appears to be new, but, they are relatively cheap.....should I go ahead and try to put on a new one? Thanks for all of your help!

Jeremy

1987 Ford Aerostar XLT (short style) Blue & Gray. Digital dash, all power options.

 

Thanks dtong_ck.....all seems to be well.....I will go ahead and replace the part tomorrow....if needed.....is it hard to replace an intake manifold gasket? or...is there such a thing? Thanks for your help!

Jeremy

 

There is a vacuum line go to the fuel pressure regulator. If you unplug it and see raw fuel, the regulator is bad. This is what happened to me. I replaced mine with an used one from wreck yard. I had to replace the fuel line also because the regulator i took from wreck yard had a flare connection instead of a compression fitting type. Good luck.

 

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. The car runs great. For some odd reason though, the car did yet cut off again.....it took an extremely long time to restart the car, and when I did.....it ran better than ever.....still wondering if maybe I did not fix the problem, so, I drove my other car this evening.....1994 Saturn SL2.....Do you feel like I am alright now....since the car is now running incredibly well, or maybe there might be something else that I might should try. The car cut off earlier after running down the road for about 30 minutes. The dash sensors beeped for about 10 minutes, simultaneously switching from one guage to another (digital dash), and then all of the sudden, the car just started running so perfectly. Still not sure if I should trust that, or did the computer just reset itself, and it is fine now?

 

I would think it would be your ignition module which is located on the side of your distributor. If it shuts down when warmed up then your module could be fried. Next time it happens get a hammer or something and give it a couple taps then try to start it. It is gray and is about 2 inches by about 4 or 5 inches long. Good luck!

-Matt

 

Thanks Beast12....I will definitely try that.....If anything goes wrong....I will let you know.....Thanks again! Very much!!!

 

Ok, good luck. Let us know how it turns out either way!

-Matt

 

I am going to buy a new part like beast12 reccommended. I started my car today....which actually has been running pretty well otherwise the warm engine stalling....which it did not do today, but, my guage light is blinking (alternator-digital dash) and it does not do it all of the time....just when the car is idling. The battery guage seems to show that the battery is fully charged, and it stays fully charged. I did the alternator test by pulling the battery cable off while the car is running, and it stayed running.....I really wish I could get the dinging to turn off.....and reccommendations? Thanks very much! Jeremy

P.S.: I have a 3.0L V6 engine in my car and the valves rattle at takeoff.......I am not sure what causes that. Sometimes the valves rattle during the whole drive, and sometimes not, but, always at takeoff......Help...... )

 

Well your gauge could be screwy. To test it get a voltmeter and put in on your battery cables with the van off and see what your reading is. Now start the van and check again. With the van off it should be around 12 volts. When running it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 If it is within the readings I said then maybe your gauge is done.

<b>NEVER EVER</b> remove your battery cables when you vehicle is running. You used to be able to do that but you shouldn't with the newer vehicles. They have a lot more electronic components and you could fry them. You can also wreck your alternator.

All for your engine noise, what kind of oil filter are you using? I am not trying to dis the company but I bet it is an orange filter? No matter what you have on there, try to buy a Motorcraft filter. They may cost you a buck more or so but it was designed for your van. Maybe help increase oil pressure. Also make sure your oil is topped up.

Now that I think of it are you sure it is your alternator gauge that is beeping or is it your oil pressure gauge? Just something to think about.

Good luck!

-Matt

 

Are you sure that's your valves that's rattling during take off? Could it be some sort of knocking/pinging. If it is, check your transmission modulator. Pull off the vacuum line at the modulator and see if there is transmission fluid in the line. If there is, replace the modulator. The modulator for the 3.0L vans sits unprotected right next to the exhaust. I guess that's why they go bad more often than those on a 4.0L.

 

Car is doing well now, replaced the ignition coil, now everything with the starting and running of the car has been replaced. The van still has a noise that sounds like a valve rattle though. The van runs great otherwise and has great power, and everything is working normally now. I found a loose wire causing the dash to ding and blink the alternator light (digital dash). I was also amazed to find out that my car really has more than 141k on the motor. The trans was replaced 6 years ago. I found out that the car had 500k on the motor and when it got to 600k, the odometer went back to 0k.......how amazing is that.....my car has almost 642k miles on the motor!!! The owner took amazingly great care of the car before it was given to me, but, I did not know a car could last that long! Everything has been replaced but the engine block, and I figure that is why the car sounds like the valves rattle, but, only at take-off. When the car is going at speed limit down the road, the noise is gone. The car leaks no fluids, or burns oil or anything. The steering is kinda loose, and other than the rattle and the steering, nothing else is wrong. If anyone has any suggestions about the rattling at take-off noise, I am open for any ideas, but, I am not going to invest alot of money into the problem if it is costly, due to the mileage. Thanks to all of you who have helped make my old car run like a new one again!!