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swapping engine, advise?

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Old Mar 4, 2004 | 04:05 PM
  #1  
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swapping engine, advise?

As you may have seen in my other post I have decided on changing the blown engine in my 97 F150 4.6L 4x4. Have never done an engine but after doing research I think I can handle it. Looking for an engine right now. Have already gotten some good advise but you can never have enough. Anybody have any tips on what to look out for? Parts list? Tools (besides the obvious)? Checklist? Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2004 | 07:30 PM
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I lift to remove the body? I hear that it is much easier this way.
Jimmy
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 12:03 AM
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I'd guess that removing the body isnt an option as most of us dont have a hoist at home
You'll need a good floor jack to hold up the transmission when you remove the engine. Unbolt the torque convertor and leave it in the transmission. Some people drag the torque convertor out with the engine but that makes a big mess and then you have to try to get the torque convertor back into the transmission later. It has to be installed correctly into the trans or you'll burn the trans up.
You'll need fuel line disconnect tools. You can probably buy a cheap set at any parts store.
The bellhousing bolts are a pain to get at. I use a long (approx 36") extension with a 13mm swivel (universal) socket on it.
The top starter bolt is a real pain. You'll need to try a couple different combinations of sockets and extensions til you find what fits best to reach behind the solenoid.
You'll need a fan wrench to get the fan off. I think that some parts stores rent them.
Dont open up the A/C. You can unbolt the compressor and move it off to the side.
It's sometimes easiest to remove the hoses from the P/S pump so the pump stays on the engine. The bolts that hold the pump on are hard to get at with the engine in.
hmm that's about all I can think of at the moment.
I think that "98 4.6 locked up" might not mind it if you asked him some more questions too
 

Last edited by Racerguy; Mar 5, 2004 at 12:05 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 12:15 AM
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I put the front end up on jackstands, took off both tires, and removed the plastic fenderwells on both sides. Makes everything much easier to get to. Hey Racerguy, any tricks to putting the torque convertor back in the tranny? I didn't realize there could be potential problems. I thought it would just slip back in. All help appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 12:28 AM
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Hello its me again. Was also wondering if there are any tricks for taking out the trans front main seal. Looks like you might be able to pry around the edges to get it out a little then just work it out.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 12:30 AM
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One thing that some people try, and it wont work, is to bolt the torque convertor to the engine and try to install it that way. If you do that you'll be replacing the transmission shortly after you have the engine in
To get the convertor in you have to push and turn at the same time until it goes into the front pump. It goes in 2 "notches". It will go in a ways and then when you turn and push it will clunk in another notch.
It's kinda hard to explain. Keep pushing and turning until it wont go in anymore.
Very important...when you install the engine you have to line up the torque convertor studs with the flexplate (flywheel) and then slide the engine in. With the engine bolted to the transmission you should be able to move the torque convertor back and forth a bit before you put the nuts on it. If you cant move the convertor you dont have it into the transmission the whole way and you'll have to pull the engine out again and try again.
You can probably buy a cheap seal puller to pull the front pump seal out or you can try prying it out with a screwdriver. Make sure though that you dont nick the inside of the case where the seal goes or it will leak. Lube the seal well with Vaseline or Lubriplate before you install the convertor.

And another hint....rather than reply again when you have something to add, you can just hit the edit button at the bottom of the post and add what you want or change something. I think you have an hour to do this and then it locks the post. Doing it that way saves bandwidth on the site. With so many new users here all the time the bandwidth bills are really adding up.
 

Last edited by Racerguy; Mar 5, 2004 at 08:21 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 12:38 AM
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Thanks Racerguy. Any tricks on the front trans seal? Thanks again. I thought I was going crazy when I saw your reply change.
 

Last edited by 98 4.6 locked up; Mar 5, 2004 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 10:36 AM
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Thanks for all the advice. I am going to pull out the old motor this weekend and want to put the new one in next weekend. The best deal I can find on a used engine is $1500 for one with 50,000 miles out of a wrecked '98. A rebuilt with a 36,000 mile warrenty is $2200. A Ford rebuild is $2900. I'm not sure what to do. I don't have $2200. I am going to wait and see if I can find a better deal on a rebuilt but I don't have a lot of time. My wife is due to give birth in two weeks and we are down to one vehicle. Hey "98 4.6 locked up" you got a heck of a deal on your rebuilt, hopefully another one will come along soon for me.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 12:05 PM
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That doesn't sound like too bad of a deal. 50K is just broken in. 97 and 98's should drop right in without changing anything. Good Luck. Any more questions don't hesitate. P.S I got mine from Cherry Motors. Try giving them a call. You might get lucky.
 

Last edited by 98 4.6 locked up; Mar 5, 2004 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 03:02 PM
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"98 4.6 locked up" Do you have a number or website for Cherry Motors? I did a search for them but couldn't find anything. I did just find a rebuilt from roadmaster in texas for $1500 plus $250 for shipping. Their core charge is another $750. Thats the best deal i've found so far.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 04:15 PM
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are they giving you a complete engine for $1500? if so , all the sensors, injectors ect. ect,, will also have 50,000 miles on them too, just something to think about. p.s. run the vin if you know what dealer serviced this truck, look for sticker on back of truck, could give you service history, i've done this.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 04:38 PM
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Yes the used engine is for everything. I never thought about it this way but If I get the used engine for $1500 then everything has 50,000 miles on it. If I go with a rebuilt longblock for $1750 then the engine will be 0 miles and the injectors, etc. will still have 130,000 miles on them. Now I really don't know which way to go, used or rebuilt? What do you think?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 05:11 PM
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let me just say, ive changed 3 engines on my 95, when i sold it, it had 370,000 miles onit, i bought it with 40,000. i got a 100,000+ out of each change,(with each engine having 30-50,000 onit. time saving on changing a used engine, alone was well worth it, i drive very hard, used the money saved to buy some nice things for the wife and kids. i basically unplugged it , motor mounts, trans, afew hoses, and it was out, reversed the procedure, done end of story, i figured it had a warrenty, it was already broke in,
if you can look at the truck that it came out ,if it looks clean, other than accident damage,and if the front pulley has no dings it, then that tells you no impact to the front of the engine, then go for it.

P.S. i shopped around and found the going price for your engine is $1000-1600. with 2-3 year warrenty
 

Last edited by f=2504by497; Mar 5, 2004 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 08:06 PM
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Cherry- Auto.com or phone # is 419-476-7222 They are out of ohio.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 08:34 PM
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Thanks, So f=2504by497, you're saying you would go for the used engine over the rebuilt?
 
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