I am purchasing a 600 cfm Edelbrock electric choke carb for my F250 w/ C6 auto and 460. Can anyone give me an idea what extra parts I might need for this, i.e. the adapter kit for the auto kickdown linkage? Also, what is the best way to adapt the threaded stock fuel line going to my holley 4180C. Should I remove the factory spacer with the EGR attached as the previous owner removed most of the other smog related equipment? Is there an aftermarket spacer to replace this? Will I be able to keep my factory air filter housing or am I going to have to get an aftermarket air filter setup? As you can tell, I have never replaced a Factory carb with an aftermarket carb before, but I am not real pleased with the performance of the 4180C. Any suggestions or comments that will make this go nice and easy would be appreciated.

 

Youngguy,

You did not mention which model you were getting, but I am assuming that you are getting the non-emission Edelbrock. If so then the EGR plate can come out. But, you will need to plug the exhaust port that will be left open on the manifold. You can use JB Weld for that. I used a two inch phenolic spacer but you can probably do just as well with a one inch. Get the four hole type and make sure that you get new studs that will be long enough to screw into the manifold, go through the spacer, through two gaskets, through the carb base, and have at least one quarter of an inch to screw the nut on. I would guess that the studs will need to be about an inch and a half longer than the spacer is thick. I used the thick four hole carb gasket on both sides of the spacer for good sealing. You must use a four hole gasket between the manifold and the spacer or you will have a vacuum leak. The carb hold down nuts should be torqued to about 160 inch lbs. - not foot lbs.

The Edelbrock fuel inlet is on the back passenger side of the carb. I used the swivel banjo fitting (Edelbrock #8089) on the carb instead of the stock nipple to make sure it did not interfere with the stock air filter housing. Remove and toss the metal line that goes from the vapor separator to the carb. Get a brass fitting that will properly screw into the vapor separator and have a nipple for rubber fuel hose to attach. Get a quality inline fuel filter (the stock carb had a filter built in at the fuel inlet) to the and put it a couple inches past the vapor separator with a piece of rubber fuel line connecting the two. Then use rubber fuel line from the filter to the back side of the carb. I choose to route mine along the driver’s side of the carb and under the throttle cable. I have a manual trans so I don’t know if the auto kick linkage will interfere using this route.

Once you have it all hooked up make sure the throttle cable allows the carb to close fully at idle. I had to adjust my bracket about one quarter of an inch to get it fully closed. I just used a hammer and gave it a couple of light raps and it moved forward sufficiently. With that done tune the carb as Edelbrock recommends in the owner’s manual. It makes a big difference in performance and gas mileage.

One final items if you have not already order the carb. I use the Edelbrcok remanufactured unit at a good price savings and have been very pleased with it.

Good luck,

Mark

 

mchild,

Thanks for the info. It should be very helpful. By the way, I am getting the non-emissions carb and I got a brand new unit off Ebay for 200 + S/H. One question as to the vapor separator. I am not familiar as to what or where this is. I have not looked too closely at the fuel line yet other than to note it is a steel line threaded into the stock 4180C. This line comes out of a small "canister" with another line dropping down along the block. I have not looked at where this other line comes from but assume it is the fuel pump. I will have to run outside and check this out. Could you fill me in as to what/where the vapor separator is?

Thanks again
youngguy

 

p.s. -One more question I forgot to ask. My carb has hot air choke tubing threaded onto the side. Does the new Edelbrock provide for this? If not, What do I do with this hot air tubing. (one line is threaded the other is attached via rubber hose.

 

i got some good advice, unless you live in a really cold envirment, get a open element air clearner, it will make a world of difference, i did it on my 77 ranchero with a 400, i put on the 1406 600cfm carb and it was a bit better, but i didn't really notice the difference untill i spent $25 and bought an open element. good envestment.

 

the new crb does not have it, so just cut the tube at the base and weld it shut so it does not drop into the intake on the exhust side. the tube and plat come out with 2 bolts, then just tack wedl the top of the holes on the tube to the plate.

 

That’s it, the one you are speaking of. It helps to keep the truck from having vapor lock. That is when the fuel boils and turns to vapor. The larger of the two lines is the incoming fuel and the smaller line is a return line back to the fuel tank. It sends unused fuel back to the tank so that it does not sit on top of the motor and boil. With the fuel constantly being rotated from the fuel tank to the carb and back it keeps it cooler.

Mark

 

no the steel tubing on the pass side right next to the carb, there should be a small plate with 2 tubes coming out of it one goes in to the choke and the other up to the air cleaner, it helps the choke warm up faster. but the new edlebrock does not use that

 

what year is your truck

 

My truck is a 1985. Thanks for all the info. I figured I would have to plug of these tubes. If I unbolt the plate, can I remove the whole hot air unit? I would just assume remove the unit and make uo something to cover the hole.

 

you could do that . if you leave thoes tubes open it is no big deal, the one from the air cleaner (rubber hoes side) goes down under the plat spirles back up and out the other tube into the choke. what i did with mine is bent them out of the way, but when i had to smog it the guy made me fix it so i just cut and welded them, but a plate would work great as long as it seals.

 

I put an edelbrock 750 on my 460. I left the EGR plate, and have not had any problems, the biggest problem that I had was the throttle linkage. Had to special order an adaptor to space the throttle bracket over where it bolts to the intake. It is still at a weird angle because the throttle linkage sets back almost two inches from where the factory holley bolts up. I am going to have to shorten my kickdown rod, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Don't know what the emission are in your state, but here my 86 just has to pass the visual, nothing actually has to work, but you really don't gain any noticable power by removing everything, and you are in trouble if they change the emissions laws, like they do here anytime the mood strikes them. It does help with the clutter, I need to put valve cover gaskets on mine and have been putting it off because of all the air tubing in the way.