Wiring Harness
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,775
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From: Conway Arkansas
Wiring Harness
Im in pretty good need of a wiring harness
I rewired the whole truck.
It has 5 swtiches at the moment, main power, head lights, inside lights, fan, and turn signals.
The factory wiring is gone...
Anybody know where I can get one and how much they cost?
Im sick of the switches and the pushbutton.
Or
maybe a wiring diagram for the 2 position pull switch for the headlights and such, so I can just wire into it?
I rewired the whole truck.
It has 5 swtiches at the moment, main power, head lights, inside lights, fan, and turn signals.
The factory wiring is gone...
Anybody know where I can get one and how much they cost?
Im sick of the switches and the pushbutton.
Or
maybe a wiring diagram for the 2 position pull switch for the headlights and such, so I can just wire into it?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
Andy!!! Well now ya done it! Gotta spring for a wiring harness or find and salvage one from the Junk Yard. I was thinking that a harness from a late model pickup should work as well. Good luck! Let us know how this escapade comes out!
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Conway Arkansas
haha.. Thanks william
Anybody got an extra one laying around? or a diagram...
I can make my own.. not a biggie.
Just don't know what all the prongs on the back of the headlight switch is for...
I was thinking maybe Painless wiring made one... any ideas?
Anybody got an extra one laying around? or a diagram...
I can make my own.. not a biggie.
Just don't know what all the prongs on the back of the headlight switch is for...
I was thinking maybe Painless wiring made one... any ideas?
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,775
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From: Conway Arkansas
Original colors and ends doesn't make a difference to me
I rewired the whole truck...
I ran a 4 gauge wire from the battery to the inside of truck, and then off of that I got the main power wires
Im going to put in a newer model fuse box and then from there go to the switches
But Id settle for a repro...
I rewired the whole truck...
I ran a 4 gauge wire from the battery to the inside of truck, and then off of that I got the main power wires
Im going to put in a newer model fuse box and then from there go to the switches
But Id settle for a repro...
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
I put a Painless on my 65 and for the most part it was painless except for a glitch in the ignition that had the starter kicking on when I went to shut the truck off... a quick call to their help line fixed that... after which the truck would not shut off at all... another call to the help line cleared it up... there was a bit of feedback coming from the alternator and they suggested putting a rectifier diode inline with the wire going to the "I" terminal on the regulator. Everything cleared up and my beast runs great now...
I installed the generic 12 circuit kit and now have plenty of connections for whatever I may want to add later...
Hope this helps,
I installed the generic 12 circuit kit and now have plenty of connections for whatever I may want to add later...
Hope this helps,
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Conway Arkansas
THanks.... helps but doesn't.
I still need to know the diagram of the headlight switch..
thanks for the info tho
I still need to know the diagram of the headlight switch..
thanks for the info tho
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 62
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From: Albuquerque NM
Who is it that makes the repro? My wirong is a COMPLETE mess. All the wires are the same color from overspray. When the pervious owner "rewired" it he left all the old wiring there as sort of a support for his crappy wiring job. Used some of the old wires to patch the wires that he put in that were to short. What wiring job would be complete with out a half a roll of duct tape?
Ben
Ben
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Conway Arkansas
Thats the way my old wires were.
I got almost all of mine figured out.
I got the brake lights figured out, the turn signals, etc... but i need the headlight switch to actually work
the key/starter is no problem
I got almost all of mine figured out.
I got the brake lights figured out, the turn signals, etc... but i need the headlight switch to actually work
the key/starter is no problem
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque NM
Ill try and take a look at my head light switch. I know there are three functions for the switch, the lights, the parking lights, and the lights in the dash. If you pull it one click the parking lights come on. Anther click and the lights come on, and you can turn the **** left to right to turn the lights in the dash on and off.
Ben
Ben
Last edited by NewMexF250; Mar 4, 2004 at 12:07 PM.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Conway Arkansas
Thanks.
I don't really need the blinker lights in the dash to work, or even go thru that switch
I jsut want the headlights to go thru that...
But if I can get it that way Id be happy
I don't really need the blinker lights in the dash to work, or even go thru that switch
I jsut want the headlights to go thru that...
But if I can get it that way Id be happy
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Conway Arkansas
Originally posted by jcs1966
how do you wire up the yellow parkibg lights to stay on when headlight are on
how do you wire up the yellow parkibg lights to stay on when headlight are on
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 43
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From: Northern California
Just checking, Andy... what are the terminal connection indicators on you light switch... I'd like to know if they are the same as mine... if so I think I might be able to help...
These are the terminals on mine,
top row: A, D1, D2
middle row: P, H
bottom row: B, R, I
From what I can tell so far:
B is main power, R is tail, I is instrument panel
P is park, H is high beam
A is horn, D1 & D2 are courtesy light
Now the only issue that I can see with my ohmmeter is that the park lights turn off when you switch from park to headlights on. I think jumping R and P will solve this problem.
Hope I'm a bit more on track this time.
These are the terminals on mine,
top row: A, D1, D2
middle row: P, H
bottom row: B, R, I
From what I can tell so far:
B is main power, R is tail, I is instrument panel
P is park, H is high beam
A is horn, D1 & D2 are courtesy light
Now the only issue that I can see with my ohmmeter is that the park lights turn off when you switch from park to headlights on. I think jumping R and P will solve this problem.
Hope I'm a bit more on track this time.