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I'm rebuilding my 86 460 engine and adding "typical" goodies (D0VE C heads, edelbrock performance package, L&L headers, straight up timing, mild head work.) My machine shop recommends balancing as well, an additional $175. I plan to use the truck mostly for towing, will never be turning high rpms, and am wondering if it worth the cost. I've never had it done before, this isn't a race car but just a (hopefully) fun to drive truck.
If you do it, it will help the engine run longer. The crank will see less harmonics from vastly different bob weights (ie: the rod/piston) after you have the rotating assembly ballanced. It makes for a more reliable assembly that will last longer in the long run :] It becomes much more important in a high performance/High RPM performance engine, but I would call this a good idea even for a bone stock rebiuld.
Here's the way it was explained to me in my younger days, by an old, experienced mechanic I knew.
Custom balancing would be prohibitively time consuming and costly at the factory. What they do is establish a spec range into which all parts must fall in order to be used.
An engine assembled from these parts will run and give good service.
However, one engine may get parts that are all on the extreme edges of tolerance, and won't be especially well balanced. This is the one that runs 100,000 miles and needs rebuilding.
The next engine on the line might get parts that all fall very close to the center of the range. This engine is very well balanced, and this is the one that runs for 300,000 miles with no trouble.
When you rebuild an engine, you are bringing together parts from several different sources. There is no guarantee that they will come anywhere close to matching. That's why it's always best to balance a rebuilt engine.
It is different for a big block. Some balance machines won't do a big block. I was told some are limited to about the size of a 350 Chevy. I paid 175.00 for a balance job and another 20.00 to add the pressure plate on it also.
The process and knowledge used for balancing a big block anything versus a small block anything, is essentially the same.
The difference big block cranks often need much more drilling into the crankweights, and more "heavy metal" welded in, in order to achieve a specific balance.
So it just takes much longer (typically) than for a small block. But the process is absolutely identical.
$175 is towards the high end of "reasonable" for balancing a big block Ford, at least if its done correctly. Sadly, I've found shops here and there who don't do things right, and the metal they add to the weights fly out.
Nice, huh?
Editorial aside, I'd always recommend balancing your engine if you're rebuilding it. If you take the total cost of your rebuild, and add the balancing, and divide by 100K miles, you can see the cost per mile didn't go up a whole heck of a lot, even though swallowing 175 now in one shot might seem like a lot.
Also, shop around. Sometimes local shops are more competitive than others, trying to win your business. Other shops for whatever reason, have such a backlog, the don't care as much about new projects as they're "in the money" for many months.
They will also offer several different levels. I believe my 175 got me within a 1/2 gram (I think?) of everything. He did offer a lower level balance. Maybe it was within a gram? Now I need to put it together!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote - "Sadly, I've found shops here and there who don't do things right, and the metal they add to the weights fly out."
Yes, this becomes more important yet in a performance engine. On a street engine you may get away with drilling straight into the crank weight and adding the metal to increase bob, but as you increase in RPM such as for a mild drag to all out drag type engine the odds of this holding goes down quickly. Ever seen the slug come out and punch a hole in the oil pan and exit the body panels? Its not a fun experiance. A better ballancer will side drill the crank to add the weight, this is a better way by FAR for a high RPM engine.
I am giving this only for general knowledge, 95% of engines are rebiult stock or very close with RPM's not expected to see much over 5,000. In these cases it is a mute issue.
Can't remember what I paid for the balancing, but it was some of the best money I spent on the engine. You won't believe how much smoother the engine feels from about 3000 RPM's on up. I've never had a big block that was so smooth.
Usually the more metal they have to add to the crank the more it will cost.They use a special heavy metal for the crank weight,I think it called mallory metal,but don't quote me on it.
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