Where does the oil go?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: northwest
Where does the oil go?
On my last oil 3 change 3 months ago I gave in a bought M1 for my truck to try it out. The engine is a 360 and has about 14k on a rebuild. So the problem is I have been losing or using oil somewhere and I doubt it is dripping enough to have to put in a total of 3 additional quarts in less than 1700 miles, or 3 months I ran my finger in the tailpipe and it is sooty but dry. Yesterday I also changed the filter and added the oil to top it off. Because M1 is $4.50 per quart I am seriously thinking of going back to the dino. Is there something I am missing here? Also the oil is black as can be but that is understandable due to previous posts.
I plan to wait 3 more months before I do a full change but in the meantime, can dino be mixed with M1 without any nonmixing issues coming up?
I don't believe I had the consumption issue with dino. But I had to add at least 1 qt. between changes.
I plan to wait 3 more months before I do a full change but in the meantime, can dino be mixed with M1 without any nonmixing issues coming up?
I don't believe I had the consumption issue with dino. But I had to add at least 1 qt. between changes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Iowa
That's consistent with my M1 experience on my dad's 2000 silverado. It would use about a quart every 1000 miles. It doesn't leak a drop, so I have to assume it was getting past the rings or valve stem seals.
I went back to dino, and the problem went away. It now goes about 5000 (or so) miles until the GM oil system comes on and says to change it. During that time, it uses, maybe, 1/2 a quart.
I use Mystik JT-8 10w30 in it, but I'm sure most any dino would keep the burning to a minimum.
Now my '70 F-100 is another story, it leaks any oil like crazy.
Yes, you can mix the dino and synthetic safely.
I went back to dino, and the problem went away. It now goes about 5000 (or so) miles until the GM oil system comes on and says to change it. During that time, it uses, maybe, 1/2 a quart.
I use Mystik JT-8 10w30 in it, but I'm sure most any dino would keep the burning to a minimum.
Now my '70 F-100 is another story, it leaks any oil like crazy.
Yes, you can mix the dino and synthetic safely.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: So Cal
I would vote for valve guides or some other oil leakage into the cylinders and burning.
I use Mobil 1 or syn in everything and none of my engines burns oil in any unusual amounts. I would say on average I burn a quart or less between changes. My syn changes are either 5,000 or 7,500 depending on engine and mfg recommendations.
So you burning oil the way you say menas there is a mechanical leak either into the combustion path or to the outside world. External leaks can be hard to find if they only leak while running and the oil leakage gets blwon away while moving. Normally if you burn this much syn, you should also have a problem with dino.
If dino works for you, use it. Mixing dino and syn is fine. Stores charge extra for this and call it a blend. All engine oils are supposed to be compatible assuming they meet SAE/API spec. Some of us don't like to mix, but it shouldn't cause this kind of problem or anything else significant.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
I use Mobil 1 or syn in everything and none of my engines burns oil in any unusual amounts. I would say on average I burn a quart or less between changes. My syn changes are either 5,000 or 7,500 depending on engine and mfg recommendations.
So you burning oil the way you say menas there is a mechanical leak either into the combustion path or to the outside world. External leaks can be hard to find if they only leak while running and the oil leakage gets blwon away while moving. Normally if you burn this much syn, you should also have a problem with dino.
If dino works for you, use it. Mixing dino and syn is fine. Stores charge extra for this and call it a blend. All engine oils are supposed to be compatible assuming they meet SAE/API spec. Some of us don't like to mix, but it shouldn't cause this kind of problem or anything else significant.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 5,228
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From: Running Springs CA
Mixing should not be a problem. I would stay with Mobil or Exxon for maximum additive compatibility. I noticed a significant increase in oil consumption when trying Castrol Syntec, but not anywhere near that much and this is on an engine with more than 120,000 miles.
Were the intake valve guides "knurled" during the rebuild? If so, that is your problem, not the oil. That cheap method of head reconditioning only lasts about 12,000 miles. Valve guide inserts or oversize valve stems are the "right" ways to do it.
Jim
Were the intake valve guides "knurled" during the rebuild? If so, that is your problem, not the oil. That cheap method of head reconditioning only lasts about 12,000 miles. Valve guide inserts or oversize valve stems are the "right" ways to do it.
Jim
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From: northwest
Thanks for the help guys. I think that the oil just could be that slippery and making it past the rings and being burned. The truck in question is an F-100.
I'm not sure about the head reconditioning technique but maybe I should do a compression check.
Once again thanks for the help.
I'm not sure about the head reconditioning technique but maybe I should do a compression check.
Once again thanks for the help.
