Rear Differential
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Joined: May 2003
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Rear Differential
I took my '99 Ranger 2x4 into Sears to get the shocks replaced and it was discovered that my rear differential was leaking where it meets the drive shaft.
Since I have no mechanical ability, I'll have to take it into a shop to have it fixed (Sears doesn't do this kind of work).
Therefore, I have two questions.
1. Is this something that needs to be fixed ASAP?
2. How much would something like this run me?
The guy at Sears didn't seem to think that the leak was a bad one.
Thanks in advance.
Since I have no mechanical ability, I'll have to take it into a shop to have it fixed (Sears doesn't do this kind of work).
Therefore, I have two questions.
1. Is this something that needs to be fixed ASAP?
2. How much would something like this run me?
The guy at Sears didn't seem to think that the leak was a bad one.
Thanks in advance.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Probably your pinon seal is leaking. Usually all this does is make a mess, and as long as you keep the fluid up it will be OK.
I forget the figure I have heard tossed around on a chebby site, but I think it was something like $150. It requires some specialized tools to remove the seal on a chebby so it is not a good home mechanic job. I think the Ford is the same, but since I never had a problem with it I can't say for sure.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
I forget the figure I have heard tossed around on a chebby site, but I think it was something like $150. It requires some specialized tools to remove the seal on a chebby so it is not a good home mechanic job. I think the Ford is the same, but since I never had a problem with it I can't say for sure.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Cleveland, WI USA
I changed my pinion seal on my 78 9" fairly easily. The seal was only about $12. You have to disconnect the shaft from the yoke and remove the yoke nut and yoke. Then pull the seal and put the new one in. Putting it back together is easy but can be technically challenging.
The technical part is that the yoke nut is tightened to a specific torque that puts a pre-load on the bearings (so they're not too tight or too loose). It also moves the pinion gear in/out to align properly with the ring gear. Being a fairly new truck, you could simply mark the nut and the shaft it goes on before you take the nut off (I cut a small notch in mine with a dremel tool). When you put it back together, tighten it to the mark.
I haven't had a single problem with mine and I've had the whole thing apart several times.
Good luck.
Kevin K.
The technical part is that the yoke nut is tightened to a specific torque that puts a pre-load on the bearings (so they're not too tight or too loose). It also moves the pinion gear in/out to align properly with the ring gear. Being a fairly new truck, you could simply mark the nut and the shaft it goes on before you take the nut off (I cut a small notch in mine with a dremel tool). When you put it back together, tighten it to the mark.
I haven't had a single problem with mine and I've had the whole thing apart several times.
Good luck.
Kevin K.
