Am looking for the Orginal Oil Filter, old style canister and parts to replace the aftermarket one on motor now.. [it's a leaker]..

1963 ford pickup 292 motor

 

They do show up on ebay occasionly. From what a knowledgeable friend told me, if it's not a show truck keep the spin on. The way the oil gets put back into the pan so you have a dry start could cause problems. Make sure the piece you get has all the internal springs. It will just screw into the block. -4speed

 

I don't think that there would be a dry-start problem with the old cannister style oil filter. The plate that bolts to the block has a hole at the top that prevents the oil from draining back between starts. If the gasket between the plate and the block is sealing, then there should be no problem.

On my 223, there is a plug above the filter that can be used to fill the filter with oil after the filter has been changed during oil changes. I don't see an easy way to prime the filter on the Y-block.

BTW, speaking of drain-back and oil filters; don't use Fram oil filters. The quality of the internal parts is incredibly poor. On some models of filters, there is no anti-drain-back valve. On models where there is a anti-drain-back valve, it's leaky. Use Motorcraft oil filters (and synthetic oil like Mobil 1).

Edit: BTW, I've got four Y-blocks. I may have a spare set of oil filter gear for the old style filter.

Edit again: Looks like the 223 and the Y-block have the same oil filter gear. In other words, you can use the 223 stuff on your Y-block. The plate on the Y-block has two smaller holes, where the 223 has one larger hole. Other than that, they're the same.

 

Wouldn't the spin on filter be correct for the '63 or did the trucks keep the cannister type untill the end of production. I remember the first time that I did an oil change on my '61, about 4 years ago, I went to NAPA and they only had the spin on type listed for it. I had to go into the 50s models to find the cannister type. Anyway I am under the impression that the spin on is correct.

 

my 63 had the cannister type. replaced it with a spin on first thing. wish i'd kept the can for ya. sorry.

bob

 

What parts do I need to convert a 50's Y block from can filter to spin on, we got parts off about a '63 model with spin on but it still leaks, does anyone know what I am doing wrong? Thanks for any help Rob

 

gaskets! did you put a gasket between the spin on adapter and the engine block? I think the same gasket that you can pry off the oil filter fits on the adapter as well. if THAT gasket was in good shape and you put it on, you might try a little gasket sealer...

bob

 

it,s hard to get them tight.everything must be dry and clean of oil,or it will leak.sometimes they don,t go tight because they are sprung in the middle.whatever you do don,t put silicone on the gasget,if any gets sucked into the oil system it will plug a passage.

 

you're right 312. gotta be careful there. i normally use just a tiny dab of oil to hold the gasket in place.

bob

 

Paul,

Quick question for you about the Fram filters. Are you talking about the spin on ones or the cannister ones? And do synthetic oils really make that much of a difference? I guess I'm too much of a purist when it comes to oils, engines, etc., so I haven't kept up on how good the synthetics are. Thanks.

P.S. I apologize if this qualifies as a threadjack


Kevin

 

Yup We got it fixed......

after really looking hard at it, we discovered the inside plate had NO gasket under it.. put a gasket between block and plate, then one between plate and filter..

DRY AS A BONE.......

now we can cruse around without puttin in a quart ever 10 gal of gas ..

THANKS ALL OF YOU FOR THE INFO...

JOHN AND MILLE AND HER 63 PICKUP...

 

Great!

Bob

 

Kevin, These forums are for sharing ideas. 'Threadjacks' are ok in my book.

Purist? Good. Use the Motorcraft oil and filter.

Some time ago, a fella started an investigation of oil filters and published his research on the web. His only agenda was to learn, first hand, what he could about different oil filters. Although it was an informal study, he didn't run tests to measure how much debris the filters would catch, for example, it was nontheless a very useful study. He cut open new oil filters on a lathe and then examined the materials, design, and construction methods. Fram oil filters did not come out very well in that little research project; less filter material, cheap anti-drain back valves, thin cases, and more.

But then it got interesting. A former Allied Signal (parent company of Fram) oil filter engineer contacted the author of the study to share his unhappy experiences. Fram threatened the engineer. Fram also threatened the author of the study. Then the horror stories started coming in. Exploding Fram oil filters, Fram filter media disintegrating and ruining engines, lifter noise from bad drain-back valves in Fram filters.

The good news is that Motorcraft filters are quite good, and very reasonable.

I learned first-hand about how well synthetic oils work. I've even used synthetic oil that I've drained out of my Mustang and put it in an old Toyota. The Corona loved that oil. (But it hated Castrol Syntec, too thick). When I gave that Toyota to a friend, it had over 250k miles and was running better than when I got it without any major engine work, just with tuning and attention to lubrication. My Mustang engine run cooler with synthetic, and I go longer between oil changes. I use Mobil 1 oil filters, too.

If your Y-block has PCV with filtered air, you might consider using semi-synthetic oil, or adding one quart of synthetic, like Mobil 1, to four quarts of dino oil. Early y-blocks are supposed to have their oil changed every 2k, but I'd go longer if I had a fresh engine, good oil and filters, and PCV.

 

So I'm almost done reinstalling the 223 back in my truck and just to be on the safe side, I pull the oil filter mounting nipple and the plate off to make sure that the gasket behind the plate is in good shape. I'm not sure why I didn't spot it before, but the plate is cracked around the hole for the nipple. It looks like an old metal fatigue type of fracture. Damn, that can't be good.

So I pull the nipple and plate off of a 292 I have on an engine stand. Damn, the creased rim has a flat spot on it. I'm worried that it won't seal right.

Then I try to get the spin-on adapter off of a 312 sitting on the floor. Damn, it's stuck on there. What next?

I could try to pry the spin-on assembly off of the other 312 but I'm afraid of bending it.

I guess the moral here is to watch out for bad oil filter mounting plates. I'm 0 for 2.

 

Guys we still have a problem see my post above. My buddy has a '54 with a 239 and is having oil leak problems, we have tried the original canister filter, we think the attachment bolt is stretched anyone had this happen (also what does the spring/check valve inside the bolt do) We have also tried two different adapter systems from later model Y blocks with spin filters with no luck, is there a reason these would not work on a '54? Anyhelp would be appreciated, also if anybody has a cansiter filter set up with bolt canister, plate that would like to sell let me know. Thanks Rob