starter engaged while driving !
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
starter engaged while driving !
So the project was rolling pretty good, when all of the sudden a terrible screeching noise comes from the engine area. We stopped the truck and the starter is trying to start but getting slower and slower.
Oil pressure was good, everything else seems good, even the battery was good, as the electric fan and fuel pump were all humming.
My thinking is that the starter engaged, got very hot and now won't turn over. Why it engaged I don't know. The wiring did not appear shorted anywhere. Maybe my solenoid is going bad? ?
It's a Jeg's pro-starter. My truck is currently stranded and not in the best part of town :-(
Oil pressure was good, everything else seems good, even the battery was good, as the electric fan and fuel pump were all humming.
My thinking is that the starter engaged, got very hot and now won't turn over. Why it engaged I don't know. The wiring did not appear shorted anywhere. Maybe my solenoid is going bad? ?
It's a Jeg's pro-starter. My truck is currently stranded and not in the best part of town :-(
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
So this happened while you weren't trying to crank it? Your solenoid may be stuck. Your starter is probably shot also. I would go throw a $20 autozone one on there to get her home and then send that hi po thing back in for warranty. I would also get a solenoid too. Your luck is scarry Greg.
My dads 88 started up by itself and flew throught the garage door backwards with a boat attached. You need to call a priest out to your garage and get the demons excercised! LOL!
Edit: Your solenoid shouldn't have stuck on you if it wasn't being actuated. You might have a bad ignition switch.
My dads 88 started up by itself and flew throught the garage door backwards with a boat attached. You need to call a priest out to your garage and get the demons excercised! LOL!
Edit: Your solenoid shouldn't have stuck on you if it wasn't being actuated. You might have a bad ignition switch.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
So this happened while you weren't trying to crank it?
No. while I was driving. !
I think the space between the trigger connection and the high current connection is very small on the pro starter. I think it shorted telling the starter to engage. Unfortunately the motor was running at moving speed, probably around 1500-2000rpm.
I'm thinking it will start when I get back to it. I just have to figure out why it engaged and prevent it form happening again...assuming I didn't cook the starter (which may be another concern. I think the header collector is touching the tranny near the starter.)
I do have 2 FE starters at the house. Just not looking forward to replacing it.
AHhhrrgggg!!!!!!!!!!
No. while I was driving. !
I think the space between the trigger connection and the high current connection is very small on the pro starter. I think it shorted telling the starter to engage. Unfortunately the motor was running at moving speed, probably around 1500-2000rpm.
I'm thinking it will start when I get back to it. I just have to figure out why it engaged and prevent it form happening again...assuming I didn't cook the starter (which may be another concern. I think the header collector is touching the tranny near the starter.)
I do have 2 FE starters at the house. Just not looking forward to replacing it.
AHhhrrgggg!!!!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
As I figured, it started right up when I went back. It was only about 2 miles from work. But the starter engaed again as I turned right into my work parking lot. I had just turned right when it engaged the last time. Hmmm?? But, this time it disengaged shortly after and I was able to park. I should be able to get home. I'll just take a hard left if it engages :-)
Later this week, I'll run another trigger wire with some wire loom over it and I'll rotate that header collector to get it off the tranny.
It never ends.
Later this week, I'll run another trigger wire with some wire loom over it and I'll rotate that header collector to get it off the tranny.
It never ends.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Butner,NC
I'm on (#2) mini starter with 393 stroker motor. The first one melted within 2 months. These starters are great for tight spaces but over priced with their plastic guts. The new one got a heat blanket and so far so good; no problems.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
If you can not get the actual soleniod working right, why not put ANOTHER ford version in series with it. That way if the starter one does stick, it will not run because the other one is still open circuit. Kinda a safety-redundant circuit, cheap to do also.
I run the $20 A-zone versions in all my stuff. I just can't stomach the prices for those little "hi torque" models.
I can see if you need the small size to clear things, but in most of these trucks a std starter will work.
My race car is 12+ compression and it works great. When/if it dies I'll take it back for another. You can get alot of them for the price of those $$ ones. If I get a couple years out of it, good enough for me.
PLUS: if it does die, you can get one just about anywhere. Not so lucky with other models
Larry
I run the $20 A-zone versions in all my stuff. I just can't stomach the prices for those little "hi torque" models.
I can see if you need the small size to clear things, but in most of these trucks a std starter will work.
My race car is 12+ compression and it works great. When/if it dies I'll take it back for another. You can get alot of them for the price of those $$ ones. If I get a couple years out of it, good enough for me.
PLUS: if it does die, you can get one just about anywhere. Not so lucky with other models
Larry
Last edited by Freightrain; Mar 1, 2004 at 09:21 AM.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Oceanway
I heard the other day that if you go and get your starter rebuilt, they will take and replace a little $4 piece, give the housing a nice paint job and charge you $40. some hardware stores may carry the piece, but some may not sell it to you unless you are a mechanic, but if they will sell it to you you can fix the starter yourself.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
I now believe that it is the regular solenoid/relay that is at fault. I started the truck to go home last night, then I removed the trigger wire from the output of the solenoid (where you would typically hook up the large gauge starter wire). I had no issues on the way home.
So, I'm thinking the original solenoid (not the one attached to the new starter) is engaging when it's not supposed to.
As for justifying the more expensive starter: with all I have invested in this motor and my disinterest in installing startes, I sprung for the high torque high temp unit. Based on the fact that it recovered from a high speed spin. I think it's pretty good quality. I doubt an A-Zone rebuilt unit could take a rolling engagement. Not to mention I drive another few hunderd feet before I decided to stop.
So, I'm thinking the original solenoid (not the one attached to the new starter) is engaging when it's not supposed to.
As for justifying the more expensive starter: with all I have invested in this motor and my disinterest in installing startes, I sprung for the high torque high temp unit. Based on the fact that it recovered from a high speed spin. I think it's pretty good quality. I doubt an A-Zone rebuilt unit could take a rolling engagement. Not to mention I drive another few hunderd feet before I decided to stop.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Yes, MOST rebuilt starters only have NEW brushes and a quick clean up done. It all depends on what was bad when they received it. Some may need bearings/bushings or maybe a new bendix.
Some times you can take it apart and install new pieces yourself. If you have a shop that will sell you the parts. It is not rocket science. Unless you burn up the windings most everything is a cheap fix.
I hate starters also, but I still have problems with the cost of those mini starters. BUT, that's what makes the world go-round. To each his own.
Larry
PS: so these mini starters still use a regular soleniod on the inner fender? I thought most were like a chevy design? (where solenoid was mounted on starter). Or is there different designs between manufacturers? I'm glad it survived and you figured out the glitch.
Some times you can take it apart and install new pieces yourself. If you have a shop that will sell you the parts. It is not rocket science. Unless you burn up the windings most everything is a cheap fix.
I hate starters also, but I still have problems with the cost of those mini starters. BUT, that's what makes the world go-round. To each his own.
Larry
PS: so these mini starters still use a regular soleniod on the inner fender? I thought most were like a chevy design? (where solenoid was mounted on starter). Or is there different designs between manufacturers? I'm glad it survived and you figured out the glitch.
Last edited by Freightrain; Mar 1, 2004 at 10:09 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
My setup has both solenoids. There is a solenoid attached to the starter, but even it's trigger wire seems to draw a decent amount of current. So, I attached it to the output of the original solenoid.
The main starter power wire now attaches to the always hot side of the solenoid where the battery connects for the best high crrent connection..
The main starter power wire now attaches to the always hot side of the solenoid where the battery connects for the best high crrent connection..
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
So you are triggering the original soleniod to trigger the mini's soleniod and the main hot is run only thru the mini's soleniod...right?
Wow. I would think that the trigger wire should not need to be that big. Does the instructions list a amp draw for the small wire?? I would think any factory wire should be able to handle it. It's not like you leave it "ON" for long periods of time.
I was thinking you could run the main hot wire thru both soleniods to keep the mini from "operating" without you turning the key. It should not have to be that way, but it would be a safety option. Maybe it was your original soleniod that was causing the mis-intentional use of the starter. Maybe it's time to replace it, or just not use it.
I'd be curious to what the trigger wire draws. I have a nice Fluke AMP clamp meter that comes in handy for these kinds of situations. It's good for checking current draw in things that you do not know anything about.
Larry
Wow. I would think that the trigger wire should not need to be that big. Does the instructions list a amp draw for the small wire?? I would think any factory wire should be able to handle it. It's not like you leave it "ON" for long periods of time.
I was thinking you could run the main hot wire thru both soleniods to keep the mini from "operating" without you turning the key. It should not have to be that way, but it would be a safety option. Maybe it was your original soleniod that was causing the mis-intentional use of the starter. Maybe it's time to replace it, or just not use it.
I'd be curious to what the trigger wire draws. I have a nice Fluke AMP clamp meter that comes in handy for these kinds of situations. It's good for checking current draw in things that you do not know anything about.
Larry
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
I didn't read the whole thread so if this was mentioned already > Pardon me 
G Tex, Try removing the wire to the S Terminal after the truck starts.
Take it for a short drive and see if it tries to crank.
If it does, the problem is in the solenoid.
If it doesn't the problem would be in the wiring from the ignition unless of course everything got back to normal on its own
G Tex, Try removing the wire to the S Terminal after the truck starts.
Take it for a short drive and see if it tries to crank.
If it does, the problem is in the solenoid.
If it doesn't the problem would be in the wiring from the ignition unless of course everything got back to normal on its own
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gearby
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
27
Jun 3, 2025 03:28 PM
Mab1957
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
14
Oct 21, 2015 01:25 PM