'91' explorer not starting, backfires
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'91' explorer not starting, backfires
my explorer failed to start at the pump after I put in about 1/2 tank of gas. Acted dead. Jump from larger vehicle didn't help. pushed it into better location, had battery charged, cleaned posts and terminal end of cables, wiggled them in case od loose connection to starter,,,,then I had a start. Rough, but I made it home, engine acting normal. Next day.....dead. Various shadetree mechanics aided....we replaced starter...no start. Cranked, but was slowed by hung-up alternator. Replaced alternator. Crank- no start. All the start attempts wore down the battery, which never rose well after the one charge. used a charger on battery. Hours later...it wanted to start, but backfired instead. Charged battery again, also dissengaging alrm system in case of drain or short, as it was coming on way too easily & driving me crazy. following charge, the beast once again acted sincerely interested in running, but backfired most seriously instead. Timing chain jumped? Any other ideas?
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From: Cincinnati
I'm having trouble understanding, my explorer failed to start at the pump." It wouldn't crank or it cranked and wouldn't start?
"hung-up alternator" never heard of that before.
Seem like a stream of unrelated events. I would start off with a good battery. If you were using a 6A charger it can take quite a few hours to bring it up to a full charge. Typical battery is about 70 amp hours and you need to put an extra 30% in.
"hung-up alternator" never heard of that before.
Seem like a stream of unrelated events. I would start off with a good battery. If you were using a 6A charger it can take quite a few hours to bring it up to a full charge. Typical battery is about 70 amp hours and you need to put an extra 30% in.
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Thanks for jumping in....had no problem starting truck up to the time I tried to start at the pump after filling up. The alternator was dragging...seemed to grab the serpentine belt, slowing rotation. ..like it didn't want to do anything.
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Thanks for jumping in....had no problem starting truck up to the time I tried to start at the pump after filling up. The alternator was dragging...seemed to grab the serpentine belt, slowing rotation. ..like it didn't want to do anything. I have spent the last two days off and on with the charger. Had a thought about the battery three days ago, but the neighborhood men seemed to think they knew better, so I let them. Mistake. Will tell you tomorrow about the plugs, battery, wires....that is my path tomorrow.
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Baltimore
I suspect you may have fouled the plugs by now. Suggest you replace plugs and wires and make sure you have a hot battery. When you turn the key to the on position, you should hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds. If you don't hear it, it could be a bad fuel pump or bad fuel pump relay.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Cleveland, TN area.
Changed spark plug wires but I was not as careful as I should have been. I did them one at a time except at the coil pack.
Big mistake. Although it looks set-up like the engine it is not.
1-2-3 run from front to rear on the left side but the right side is 5-6-4 from front to rear.
Mine would not start and would backfire. Then the muffler EXPLODED! Made for a real good gas bomb.
Good luck.
Tom
Big mistake. Although it looks set-up like the engine it is not.
1-2-3 run from front to rear on the left side but the right side is 5-6-4 from front to rear.
Mine would not start and would backfire. Then the muffler EXPLODED! Made for a real good gas bomb.
Good luck.
Tom
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I checked spark plugs, wires....wires are in the right order, but the plugs were doing the backstroke in fuel. I also checked the starter one more time, disconnected the battery and took it in to be tested....both fine. Installed a new fender relay (cheap- the other looked corroded sufficiently on the posts)....I was almost able to get it started, but there was insufficient 'steam'. jumpered the relay, same story...almost, but didn't kick in. We switched out the battery from a friend's truck....same story. When it almost started, it backfired, but I expected that. One guy said it had jumped the timing chain, but others dispute that, since it turned over good....that the backfiring was not enough indication when you factor in the flooding and what seems to be an electrical drain. But where? My front left light was out before this, but I now remember it flashing funny for a minute a day before, too. All the interior and lights work...bulb housing was loose on left (broken fin on housing), but the loose bulb worked when pushed in. Totally frustrated.
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From: Cleveland, TN area.
How about the Ignition Control Module (fastened to the back-side of the radiator support)
Hard start, no start shop notes say to check the connector to ensure it is not loose. Also one of the pins has a tendency to push out. Worth a look.
Good luck.
_________________
Tom
Hard start, no start shop notes say to check the connector to ensure it is not loose. Also one of the pins has a tendency to push out. Worth a look.
Good luck.
_________________
Tom
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I am going to try these last two fixes....one question though.... why would I be looking at only 8 amps registering with either battery with the failure to start? Friend said the start attempt seemed to drain his battery. I was inside checking the computer for info when he did this, so I cannot attest to the full details of the test. However, I think I am still looking at an electrical issue...ignition control module not likely to cause drain, right? Talked to my dad on the phone, who suggested the drain issue was mechanic-created somehow, probably by the neighbor men each offering their aid.
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From: Cincinnati
Disconnect the plug on the wire going to the AC electric clutch. If the belt is dragging, I would suspect it is from the compressor dragging not the alternator. Another poster had this problem about a month ago. He thought it was an electrical problem in his charging system. After more than a dozen posts he found the compressor was locking up.
I think you mean 8 volts not 8 amps. Do you have an electrical meter to do testing with?
I think you mean 8 volts not 8 amps. Do you have an electrical meter to do testing with?
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Yesterday I had it towed to the shop of the mechanic I had been using when needed for 7 years...he had been too busy beforehand to work it into his shop. I had shown him a week ago the situation when I talked him into stopping by, and he thought it was a battery, starter, plugs issue. Back then, I showed him the compressor, saying how it wasn't turning, and he said the plate in front wasn't supposed to move...he didn' t get it.
Well, he just called a little bit ago....told me it was the compressor all along, and the truck runs. Yay! Had to go through fender relay, starter, alternator, and plugs. Of all of it, I only question the validity of the alternator. Everything else fried. Battery's good, though. Wish I had your advice to back up my intuition then, but hadn't discovered this site until afterwards. Thanks...appreciate all the imput, advice. Next time I'll go here first. And I am buying a VOM meter.Less expensive than all I went through.
Well, he just called a little bit ago....told me it was the compressor all along, and the truck runs. Yay! Had to go through fender relay, starter, alternator, and plugs. Of all of it, I only question the validity of the alternator. Everything else fried. Battery's good, though. Wish I had your advice to back up my intuition then, but hadn't discovered this site until afterwards. Thanks...appreciate all the imput, advice. Next time I'll go here first. And I am buying a VOM meter.Less expensive than all I went through.
