I have recently determined that my mystery engine is a 360. That's kinda good, since now I can "easily" justify buying a new crank. I haven't decided to go with a 390 or a 428 crank yet. I already have a Performer RPM manifold, Crower "Power Beast" hydraulic cam (#16903) and associated valvesprings, lifters, etc, and a set of C8AE-H heads. Forged pistons will be used, but I'm gonna wait for the machine work before I buy those.

So here's the big question: Do I need a set of forged rods? This engine will be going into my Galaxie, which will not be a drag racer or a daily driver, but when complete, I intend to drive the snot out of it. Who makes a steel connecting rod for the FE? I think I need a set that will support up to 500hp. I was thinking that 4340 is a but much, maybe 5140? I'm not really looking for a set of rods that are 30 years old, but if that's what I'm stuck with, then I guess I can recondition mine. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

I don't know what RPM you plan to run, but if you are uncomfortable with used rods I would consider Scat, or Eagle. Scats are an HBeam rod forged outside the US and machined in the US and are good to about 800-850HP. Keith Craft uses them in some of his engines. Eagles are the same thing but machined outside the US. Either one would serve you well.

-Scouder

 

When building my 390, I asked my machinist about forged rods - his answer was you're not going to find stock ones, they never made them.

Then, he said it wasn't really a concern anyway, because the stock 390 rods were so heavy-duty to begin with, it was unlikely I was going to break a rod before breaking the cast-iron crank. He considered them 500HP rods, as long as you don't go too far past 6500RPM. I had the better rods, the ones that are the same as the ones with the bigger rod bolt, but without the bigger rod bolt (forget what they were, same as 428CJ? with the smaller bolt).

If you get a stock 390 or 428 crank, it will be cast-iron. I don't think you're going to stress the stock rods... and look at it this way - if you have a set of used rods, and they check out in length/twist/bend, then you have a set of rods that have already gone through a lot and are still holding up. Just get the small end rebushed and honed. I had an aircraft machinist do the small end bushing, and he matched them to my TRW piston pins.

But, that's just my opinion. If you're set on getting new rods, listen to Scouder

PS: My machinist said the rods I had were the better ones, and he wouldn't bother making the bolt holes bigger for the rod bolt because it would take too much meat away from the big end of the rod. His suggestion was ARP rod bolts. Funny, I've heard this same opinion voiced here and on other sites...

 

One word of advice, dont try to use the 360 rods in the high horsepower 390. For an adverage daily driver stock 390 the 360 rods would work fine, but for what you're trying to do you might throw one. Get standard 390 rods with the 390 crank and you'll be fine.

If you REALLY want aftermarket rods, and I dont think you need them, jegs sells some eagle h-beam rods for $700.

 

How is this set up?

http://www.speedomotive.com/fe_ford_..._crank_kit.htm

 

Your stock FE rods are forged steel! They are not as light as the SCATs but they are probably as strong.

If you are looking to go over 6,500 or use a power adder then I would change them out. There is an FE rod out on ebay that is pretty much exactly like the eagles for like $420 a set. I would let some more people use them before I bought any.

BTW Krewat, I agree with you machinist on the smaller bolt idea. I can't see an ARP bolt failing before the rod broke first. The extra meat is worth keeping IMHO.

 

Are they really forged parts already? I was pretty certain what I found in the 360 and 390's were cast, but I could be very wrong - Now I'll have to go look at a set of '67's I have laying in the garage...

As to the bolt-size thing, it was probably YOU (or others here) that I heard it from. Makes a lot of sense to me. Made a lot of sense to my machinist too... another reason I loved the guy... he knew what to do with FE's and every other motor he ever came into contact with, plus, he let me play with his tools and equipment

 

Just taking in to consideration the low truck FEs that were made they probably had the stongest rods of any engine made at the time that was thrown into any truck. I'm sure the HEMIs and LS6 BBCs were stronger but they would pretty much need to be.

 

Thanks for the input guys!

There is definitely a bit to think about. As far as engine build up is concerned, I want it to be able to handle 6K rpms. I don't plan on using nitrous or any boost, but I do plan on getting it running as a carbureted engine, and then as funds slowly seep in, convert it to fuel injection. The transmission will be a manual. So the reason I had concern for the rods was the age, the expected power level they would be subjected to, and throw in the fact that I will be replacing the crank (since everything else in the rotating assy will be new).

 

I don't know where these people get the idea that Ford rods are cast, but all the small block, Cleveland, FE and 385 series rods are forgings. Just some are better than others.