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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 02:45 PM
  #46  
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Idiomaticman
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From: Oregon-Take me wheeling..
ya, it would be a PITA to do a unibody lift. thats why the cherokees are sometimes bad, i cant imagine trying to do it to a civc.....or maybe you could just set doen on a zook frame hmmm.....

Idio
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 02:57 PM
  #47  
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proeliator
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From: Oregon
Originally posted by RawPower
Glad you didnt leave or something... but I got worried cause its been at least a whole week since i saw you post, when normally its everyday...
Naaa, its cool. I guess I DO post about every day. Maybe they should take my computer out of my office. I don't post much on the weekends though, cuz I'm out doing stuff. Anyways, yea, just busy with stuff....
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 03:16 PM
  #48  
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chillyF250
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From: Chesterfield, VA
Hey Proeliator...I think I've seen your 514 build before...but do you have any links to it? I can't remember if I saw it here or maybe on my 385 board?

I just picked up a 514 shortblock and a decent set of DOVE's with Manley Severe Duties and good Isky springs, etc. I got all the L&L stuff to put a 460 in my '76 and want to start slowly getting parts together. Want a good 2000-5500rpm motor...enough so I can lug it around on slow trails but still zing it in the light mud. The 514 has the CJ rods in it and will go 6500 but I want to keep it relatively low rpm. I know quite a few guys with 514/557 combos...but they're all drag cars...tough to get a feel for what cam and such is needed. I'm thinking 235* should be about right...

Thanks!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 04:17 PM
  #49  
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Txquadhunter24
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Pro, for a small trail rig find one of the small Ford curries (early ranger) good drivetrain and small block should set one alive. fits your bill on small.
I've got a old Cheby Luv thats had all the IFS ripped out an D30 swapped in it's place, Toy rearend and powered by a lil 4bagger that came out of a early 80's mustang. with about a 3" body lift and fender trimming it's clearing the 38.5-14-15 hawgs with no rub in site. The 4.88 gears with a 4spd allows the 4bagger to turn the 38.5's with ease. since not over powered no axle breakage troubles as of yet. that little light thing will float across mud holes and ponds. best yet it'll play all weekend on the 5gallon boat gas tank strapped in the bed. I'm not sure who thought of building it, i just got a hold of it needing a gas tank and the boat can fit perfect with the mismatched put together them..lol not sure if they are still there, but they was some pics of it in my gallery.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 04:21 PM
  #50  
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proeliator
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From: Oregon
Yea, I've posted my specs on the 385 board and also on the 385 forum in here. Those Doves will work good for what you want but you'll want a top notch port job done on them, along with the cj sized valves put in...what size are those manleys? I can recomend ScottJ and www.reincarnation-auto.com, he is a real bbf head porting guru. Cheaper to do it yourself of course, but heads are not an area I skimp in. Yea, I don't spin mine past 6k either, and it does fine. Stroked 460s put out so much torque its pretty hard to hurt the low end with cam unless you go nuts. You'll be fine with a cam in that range. What intake/carb are you thinking about? I'm running a cj stealth and Holley 970 HP dbl pumper but I've been thinking about playing with a victor. I'm thinking with our vehicle weight a vic would dog out the bottem end though...
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 04:28 PM
  #51  
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85351ho
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From: Auburn,Al
i runn a 226/234 @.050 cam with a non stroked 460 and have a decent amount of low end....it probably owuldnt hurt for you to bump it up a notch or two
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 04:49 PM
  #52  
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chillyF250
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From: Chesterfield, VA
Thanks Pro, I'm familiar with Scott...I subscribed to his site awhile ago...good stuff.

The doves I have had the normal thermactor work done...head and exhaust bolt bosses ground off. BUT...no work in the bowl and no valve job...stupid. 2.25/1.75" valves. Intakes are untouched but have a nice valve job. I think I can get them flowing 325/185 judging by what they flow now(300/145)...and what I've learned from Scott's site.

I was going to use a Stealth and 850dp...I have a 950dp for the drag car to throw on it to see if it could use more carb, I'm pretty sure it will but stepping up from an 850 is pricey. I also think a Victor may be a little sloppy for trail work...probably fine in the mud once you're spinning...but not much reponse at all lowend. I'm not sure exactly what terrain you guys have out there, we don't have real bad mud here but a lot of rutted trail running so I am biased toward low/midrange.

Did you finish up your switch to a manual? Also have some thoughts on how to swap the 390 flywheel in it...I got lucky and found L&L parts for very cheap...but want to figure out how to use factory stuff for my other 250.

I have awhile to look around for cam and make a decision...probably throw a custom solid flat tappet in it. The 224* in the 390 now is a little soggy below 2500 in the heavy truck so I wanted to make sure I had clean lowend....I think the 235* in the 514 will be ok. Plus going to the solid lifters will make more torque. I'm sorta shooting in the dark trying to compare a 390 with 4.10s to a 514 with 4.88s as well. It should be a fun project....

Thanks for the info.
 

Last edited by chillyF250; Feb 26, 2004 at 04:54 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 04:53 PM
  #53  
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chillyF250
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From: Chesterfield, VA
Originally posted by 85351ho
i runn a 226/234 @.050 cam with a non stroked 460 and have a decent amount of low end....it probably owuldnt hurt for you to bump it up a notch or two

Thanks, always good info. I run a 224* in the 390...a little soft down low for my tastes so I'm trying to get it right with the 514 but still hang on up to 5500 or so.

4.88s with my 38.5s and you guys with 5.13s and 44s are pretty similar gearing wise when you look at it...so it's a good apples to apples comparison.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 05:01 PM
  #54  
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proeliator
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From: Oregon
I think a Stealth and 850dp would be fine. Sure, it could use bigger but the 850 would do the job. The head flow rates you are talking about will be a little restrictive for a 514, but not too bad. What comp are you shooting for? You are right that a vic would suck for the trail. I only wanted to play with it for mud bogging/dragging. We've got rocks, ruts and mud, mud, mud. I'm still working on the switch to a manual. I keep getting held up on the little stuff. This weekend I will be getting my Canton pan chopped into (!) to make it fit. Took me forever to get the stuff I needed. I ended up using the L&L stuff too...once I priced out a new flywheel, getting it drilled for a 12" clutch, new pressure plate, 12" clutch, etc, I found that the L&L was only slightly more. I thought it would also save time...thats a laugh, I just got hung up on other stuff. Like I said, the 235 will be more than okay, your bottem end will be fine. You could go more like Ho suggested and I bet you'd still be happy. It never fails to amaze me what it takes to put a dent in a stroked 460s lower end. No point in putting a wild cam in though, not for what you want to use it for. Sounds like you've got a fun project on your hands...now I've just gotta get my junk back together!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 05:18 PM
  #55  
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chillyF250
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From: Chesterfield, VA
Yessir...I'm building an '86 Capri drag car right now so that comes first...so I'm trying to do this relatively cheap with trades and used parts. Cheap being a relative term.

I do agree...the doves are a little weak but I'm not sure I am confident playing with the short turn to get the exhaust up near 20cfm exhaust like Scott does. I can probably get more out of the intake....I do have another set of Doves that I could experiment on.

The 514 is a Ford crate shortblock...9.8:1 stock but will be right at 10:1 because the heads have been milled. A little touchy on pump gas but we can get 94 octane here. I will probably put a wide LSA cam in it which will help...better idle...but a little less cylinder pressure once the heads start working so it will help hold off detonation.

Yeah, I traded a tranny/xfer case for the L&L bell/clutch/flywheel but I do need a ring gear still....guess from a 400 and use a 400 starter? I'll call L&L and get it straight. Still trying to decide to go for the big 2" headers, or affordable 1 3/4" stuff that's out there. I'm also trying to find out if there are factory frame towers that work in a '76. You're right, lots of projects going on...but it should be fun when it's done.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 05:29 PM
  #56  
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proeliator
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From: Oregon
Thats odd, mine came with the ring gear from L&L? You can just reuse the 460 starter. I'd go with the 2" if I were you, unless you are really trying to save coin. With your particualr build and rpm usuage you don't have to if you wanna save a buck, but I wish I did.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 05:31 PM
  #57  
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chillyF250
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From: Chesterfield, VA
The flywheel has changed hands a few times, it is new/unused...but for some reason doesn't have a ring gear on it. Never did from what I can see...no grind marks. No biggie.

Yeah, I'll probably end up with 2"....I hate compromising that much. I run 1 7/8" on my 408 small block so I know that it needs 2".
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #58  
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85351ho
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From: Auburn,Al
i wish i had went with 17/8 or 2 inch now.....but i bought the headers back when it was stills tock, so oh well??


i just got a junk 390 flywheel and got it resurface....12 inch clutch and 11 bolt patterns already on there. i think the 360 flywheel only had 11...something to think about

When im out of college i will probably get wild with the motor and stroke it, step up to a cam in the 240's, open up the intake, and the exhaust more....jump from 219's to 226 valves....ahh i can dream

then ill just break more stuff
 
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 11:40 PM
  #59  
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Thomsen
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From: Longvalley, SD
I have the 360 flywheel with the 11'' clutch pattern and a 400 bellhousing...what starter will i need?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2004 | 03:54 AM
  #60  
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85351ho
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From: Auburn,Al
i always asked for a 400 in the parts store, but im pretty sure the manual tranny 360/390/351m/400 all use the same starter
 
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