66 Shortwide
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 169
Likes: 16
From: Hesperia CA
The cheap way up front is to cut down the springs but be aware that causes camber issues. As the suspension sinks the tire tips in at the top which could cause you, depending on how much you drop it, to eat up the inside corner of your front tires. Your call.
Another thing to remember is the shorter a spring is the stiffer it gets. Might get a bit harsh up front.
That's why most guys use the dropped spindles.
I haven't seen much info on lowering the back but since the axle rides under the leafs I suppose about all you can do is mount the axle on top of the leafs. This means welding on a mounting pad on the bottom (opposite) side of the axle and it'd better be a good weld!
You can then flip the locating pin on the leafs over so there's no alignment troubles.
That'd drop the back several inches by itself and with blocks you could go even lower, but I wouldn't recommend dropping the front to match by cutting springs. I gotta think that'd sure eat some tires.
Just realized instead of re-locating the axle pad in back you could just remove some leafs. That'd let the back drop less but will also make it softer back there. Stiff up front combined with soft in the back might make for an interesting ride, but if you're only looking for an inch or so you haven't done nuthin' that ain't reversable with a junkyard set of front springs.
Front springs are a dead easy cinch to remove on a Twin I Beam BTW because you won't need to compress the spring. Unbolt the shock first to let the suspension extend and jack it up by the frame. A couple of retainers and it's yours.
Another thing to remember is the shorter a spring is the stiffer it gets. Might get a bit harsh up front.
That's why most guys use the dropped spindles.
I haven't seen much info on lowering the back but since the axle rides under the leafs I suppose about all you can do is mount the axle on top of the leafs. This means welding on a mounting pad on the bottom (opposite) side of the axle and it'd better be a good weld!
You can then flip the locating pin on the leafs over so there's no alignment troubles.
That'd drop the back several inches by itself and with blocks you could go even lower, but I wouldn't recommend dropping the front to match by cutting springs. I gotta think that'd sure eat some tires.
Just realized instead of re-locating the axle pad in back you could just remove some leafs. That'd let the back drop less but will also make it softer back there. Stiff up front combined with soft in the back might make for an interesting ride, but if you're only looking for an inch or so you haven't done nuthin' that ain't reversable with a junkyard set of front springs.
Front springs are a dead easy cinch to remove on a Twin I Beam BTW because you won't need to compress the spring. Unbolt the shock first to let the suspension extend and jack it up by the frame. A couple of retainers and it's yours.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
The only real way to lower a 65-79 is to use dropped I-beams. They will drop the truck 2-3". Look for them from DJM or AIM. While you are replacing the I-beams,it would be a good time to upgrade to disk brakes and power steering from a 73-79 F150.
The rear can be lowered with longer shackles. For even more lowering, the front leaf spring hanger can be moved up on the frame.
The rear can be lowered with longer shackles. For even more lowering, the front leaf spring hanger can be moved up on the frame.
