Question about home porting
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Round Rock, TX
Question about home porting
I've read with interest the home porting guides that JW has linked too, but I'm confused about one thing. One of the articles states that you must get a valve job after doing the porting, while the other just recommends that you get one since you're fixing up the heads anyway.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to me that you wouldn't need to get a valve job unless you somehow damaged a seat while you were working on the bowls.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to me that you wouldn't need to get a valve job unless you somehow damaged a seat while you were working on the bowls.
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True. The main reason for having a valve job, is to do a three angle valve job, that is where you gain a lot of cfm, under the curve, which means more potential hp and tq. later
Last edited by jwtaylor; Feb 24, 2004 at 01:01 PM.
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I have another one for you to look at.
http://www.ottawa-vdubbing.com/info/...s/headporting/
Have fun, and let me know how it goes. later
http://www.ottawa-vdubbing.com/info/...s/headporting/
Have fun, and let me know how it goes. later
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Round Rock, TX
Yeah, I saw that one. It's pretty thorough. The company that made tutorial makes a pretty nice porting kit, but it interestingly doesn't include any acorn bits.
This one got my attention because the guy was so bold in what he ground off; it wasn't really a precision exercise for him. Since he did it about two years ago, I emailed him to ask if it held up. I'd expect a little more stress on the exhaust valves since he completely ground the bosses off. But hey, it removed a large restriction I suppose.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/puzeym/he...ead_port4.html
Finally, this is a pretty in-depth guide from a race builder. He's pretty exact in his work:
http://www.workmonster.com/id17.htm
This one got my attention because the guy was so bold in what he ground off; it wasn't really a precision exercise for him. Since he did it about two years ago, I emailed him to ask if it held up. I'd expect a little more stress on the exhaust valves since he completely ground the bosses off. But hey, it removed a large restriction I suppose.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/puzeym/he...ead_port4.html
Finally, this is a pretty in-depth guide from a race builder. He's pretty exact in his work:
http://www.workmonster.com/id17.htm
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Appreciate it....I will look those over. Yeah I have asked a couple of people who do port work, and they said with the E7TE grinding the exhaust boss/ guide down flush with the bowl, was okay, now the intake should only be shaped. Later
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There is a fella on another website, supposedly he does cylinder head porting. He told me he would:
do a stage 1 which would consist of:
Bowl work on the intake and Exhaust, cleaning up the intake and exhaust runners to remove any casting flash, a 3-angle valve job, flat milling to ensure deck squareness, and Ill gasket match the runners if desired..
All for $275 and that included return shipping of the head, you obviously pay to get it there, he also mentioned it was extra to have the heads flowed. I would assume, if he wasn't flowing them, then he wouldn't be sure of equal flow or achieveing a desired range of flow, so that kinda makes me wonder. I haven't made up my mind, still leaning towards home porting but something to think about, I can give you the e-mail address if you want to contact him directly. later
do a stage 1 which would consist of:
Bowl work on the intake and Exhaust, cleaning up the intake and exhaust runners to remove any casting flash, a 3-angle valve job, flat milling to ensure deck squareness, and Ill gasket match the runners if desired..
All for $275 and that included return shipping of the head, you obviously pay to get it there, he also mentioned it was extra to have the heads flowed. I would assume, if he wasn't flowing them, then he wouldn't be sure of equal flow or achieveing a desired range of flow, so that kinda makes me wonder. I haven't made up my mind, still leaning towards home porting but something to think about, I can give you the e-mail address if you want to contact him directly. later
Last edited by jwtaylor; Feb 25, 2004 at 08:39 AM.
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another option, if the gt-40p interest you in any way.
You might wanna check out these prices, I came across this link today, I am giving it some thought for sure.
http://home.neo.rr.com/chambersracing/gt-40p.htm
You might wanna check out these prices, I came across this link today, I am giving it some thought for sure.
http://home.neo.rr.com/chambersracing/gt-40p.htm
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Postmaster
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I wonder how much those templates for the bowls would cost (in the work master website)? later
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From: Monterey bay area
BigRic,
The article and most pros will suggest a valve job AFTER the head porting is performed incase any valve seat defacing is experienced....it is also a good time to perform the 3 angle valve work on the seat, work on the valves and having the machine shop clean the heads up for final assembly...sometimes (depending on the cams...spring seats need to be installed and extra machining is involved... so picking them up cleaned, assembled from the shop is the one of the last steps involved)
Doing things in order helps cut cost, labor and frustration down...
The article and most pros will suggest a valve job AFTER the head porting is performed incase any valve seat defacing is experienced....it is also a good time to perform the 3 angle valve work on the seat, work on the valves and having the machine shop clean the heads up for final assembly...sometimes (depending on the cams...spring seats need to be installed and extra machining is involved... so picking them up cleaned, assembled from the shop is the one of the last steps involved)
Doing things in order helps cut cost, labor and frustration down...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Round Rock, TX
Thanks Capone. That all makes sense.
I'm considering taking the ghetto-fabulous port approach from mpuzey, provided that I don't touch the valve seats while I'm working. On the head that's giving me trouble, I just had new exhaust seats installed in November, while the other head simply got resurfaced. I sure will be disappointed if I nick those seats though...
I'm considering taking the ghetto-fabulous port approach from mpuzey, provided that I don't touch the valve seats while I'm working. On the head that's giving me trouble, I just had new exhaust seats installed in November, while the other head simply got resurfaced. I sure will be disappointed if I nick those seats though...
